THE Surf Report

 

Sometimes You Have To Go Backward To Go Forward.

SURF:

After a great weekend of surf over the long 4th of July holiday, we seem to be regressing the past few days. June Gloom has returned, the surf has gone flat, and our water temps have stopped warming. But don't despair- there's plenty of waves next week- we just need to get through this weekend first. For Friday through Sunday, we'll have background SW/NW swells for waist high sets at best- with MAYBE a touch more sun in the afternoons. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:

• Sunrise and sunset:
• 5:51 AM sunrise 
• 7:58 PM sunset 

• Water temps peaked at 74 in N county SD earlier in the week but have since cooled off slightly to 70 with the persistent clouds and touch of NW wind. 

• And tides are mellow this weekend:
• about 2' at sunrise
• up to 4.5' late afternoon
• and down to 3' at sunset

FORECAST:

Looks like we get back on track next week with a couple good SW swells headed our way. First up is a fun chest high SW filling in on Monday. Behind it is a 2nd bigger swell arriving Wednesday for overhead sets towards far N county SD. That swell should last into Friday. 

After that, we may see smaller but fun waist to chest high SSW towards the 3rd week of July. And no hurricanes yet in the tropics- which is odd even in a La Nina year. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf/X (formerly known as Twitter).

WEATHER:

The low clouds stuck along the coast the past few days but we may see sunnier skies this weekend. We have a slight surge of monsoon moisture headed our way this weekend which may disrupt the clouds mid-day and bring thunderstorms to the mountains/deserts. Speaking of our deserts, I decided to spend the 4th of July in Palm Springs (don't ask). As luck would have it, they had their warmest day EVER while I was there- a balmy 124 degrees. Incredibly, I drove home 2 hours later, and the coast was 74- a drop of 50 degrees! I think I won't be going back to the desert any time soon (unless Palm Springs Surf Club ever opens again). Here's what's in store for the upcoming week along our coastline:

• Friday: More low clouds hugging the coast. Temps 75/65.
• Saturday through next week: A better chance of sun in the afternoons and temps 73/66.

BEST BET:

• Late Monday/Tuesday with fun SW
• Wednesday/Tuesday with good SW and Emergency Boardriding System activation! 

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

We've all been taught to stay out of the ocean after a big rain due to pollution from run off. But what about during the summer when there's no rain in sight? The water has to be as clean as Lake Tahoe, right?

Wrong.

According to a recent report from the LA Times, the Department of Public Health says there's enough dirty water to be scared of at certain beaches in the summer. Here's more:

A day at the beach is probably on the schedule for many Californians this week, especially with a heat wave baking the region. But surfing, splashing or swimming at some of Southern California’s most popular beaches could result in severe illnesses due to high levels of bacteria in the water, officials say. The Los Angeles County Department of Public Health has even issued ocean water use warnings for about a dozen beaches and multiple piers with bacterial levels that exceed health standards.

California has some of the most polluted beaches in the U.S., according to the Surfrider Foundation’s 2023 Clean Water Report. The report identified 10 beaches from coast to coast that consistently measured high levels of bacteria, three of which are in California: Linda Mar Beach in Pacifica, San Luis Creek Mouth in San Luis Obispo and Imperial Beach in San Diego.

Imperial Beach has been closed for more than two years due to toxic water from the Tijuana River watershed. The ocean shoreline from the Tijuana Slough National Wildlife Refuge to the California-Mexico border is also closed due to cross-boundary flows. (If you're up for a scary story, check out my in depth report here on THE Surf Report).

Bacteria levels can increase when contaminated runoff enters the ocean (especially after significant rainfall) or untreated sewage is released into the water (which can occur anytime of the year). A multimillion-gallon sewage spill in Carson in 2022 closed down all beaches in Long Beach among others in Los Angeles County and Orange County.

Trash, pet waste and fecal contamination from sea birds and ocean mammals can also push the levels of harmful microorganisms in the ocean to potentially unsafe levels, said Becky Schlikerman Sernik, spokesperson for the Los Angeles County Department of Public Health.

The most common illness after swimming in polluted water is gastroenteritis, which typically occurs after swallowing bacteria-contaminated water, Sernik said. Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, stomachache, diarrhea, headache and fever, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Children, the elderly and people with weakened immune systems are most vulnerable to gastroenteritis.

So before you head out to shred some surf in SD next week, make sure to see if your beach is safe from runoff here!

BEST OF THE BLOG:

Been a darn good summer so far. Lots of waves, (mostly) sunny skies, and water temps in the low 70's. Now if we could just call that 'work' somehow. Well, we could become professional surfers- but I think that ship has sailed. Then how about networking while surfing? Now that's a GREAT idea. Must be time for a North County Board Meeting Surf Meeting! Come on down to George’s (just south of the Chart House in Cardiff) Friday, July 26th at 8 AM to network, grab a bite before work, learn about our next charity event, and maybe catch a barrel or two. And the best thing- it’s free! All you have to do is have a passion for surfing and want to support your community. What could be better on a Friday (and also considered a hall pass with your boss)? Look for the tent as usual and hit up northcountyboardmeeting@gmail.com with any questions!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Drop in, set your rail, and GO! 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Exceptionally High Standards
Entertainer
Tried To Surf Palm Springs On A Soft Top But The Foam Kept Melting

THE Surf Report

 

SURF:

Most surfers will ask Santa for a new board at Christmas. Me? I'd rather ask Uncle Sam for barrels on the 4th. And it looks like we'll get our wish. 

But let's first talk about me jinxing last weekend. Sure the weather was great and we had fun little waves on Sunday, but boy was that water cold. All signs pointed to 70 degree+ water temps... and then the NW winds kicked in. The upwelling made the water temps drop from 70 on Friday to 63 on Sunday. Luckily for us, the winds have switched back to SW today and the water is back to a pleasant 70 degrees most everywhere in SD/OC (with the odd mid-60's in LA). For tomorrow, our water temps should hold (jinx) while the NW windswell picks up a touch. Look for waist high+ surf that rolls into Saturday. 

On Saturday, we also have a new small S building and we could see a couple chest high sets at combo spots. On Sunday, the SW holds while the NW backs off and we'll back to waist high+ surf. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:

• Sunrise and sunset:
• 5:44 AM sunrise 
• 8:01 PM sunset 
• And just like that, the days are getting shorter! We've already lost 3 minutes of sunlight compared to last weekend. Don't worry though, there's still plenty of summer to be had. 

• Water temps are 70 and will only stay that way if the NW winds don't blow.

• And tides are starting to mellow out this weekend:
• about 3' at sunrise
• down to 1' late morning
• up to 5.5' in the evening
• and down slightly to 4' at sunset

FORECAST:

The small SW from the weekend is met by NW windswell again on Monday for chest high sets. 

After that, models point to fun/good SW swell for the long 4th of July weekend. Along with a touch of sun and 70 degree water, we could be witnessing a unicorn; like a white Christmas (or rain for us Southern California people). Look for chest high surf late on Wednesday the 3rd with shoulder high sets on the 4th. Surf may drop slightly on Friday, then we get reinforcing chest high S swell on Saturday the 6th. And you know what- you deserve it. 

After that, we could see more good SW swell around the 13th/14th. Stop me if you've heard this before- it's been a good spring/summer so far. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf/X (formerly known as Twitter) by clicking the button below! 

WEATHER:

Great weather today may be replaced by a little more stubborn low clouds on Friday/Saturday. Weak high pressure builds early in the week for less low clouds and then high pressure really kicks in late in the week. The fly in the ointment is if inland high pressure pulls moisture off the ocean late next week and the low clouds linger at the beaches during the 4th of July weekend. Hope not. Here's what's in store for the upcoming week:

• Friday/Saturday: A little more low clouds with limited clearing at the beaches. Temps 70/65.
• Sunday to Wednesday: More sun in the afternoons. Temps 72/65.
• Thursday and beyond: Depends on what the building high pressure does. Will we see temps in the high 70's at the beaches and sun? Or will we see stubborn low clouds and cooler temps?...

BEST BET:

• Saturday with small but fun combo swell. 
• Monday: ditto
• Late Wednesday the 3rd through early Sunday the 7th with good SW swell

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

As you've heard the past decade or so, the earth is a little warmer than we'd like it to be. Whether it's record breaking land or ocean temperatures, it's creating some problems across the globe. Sure, warmer water here in San Diego means more days in trunks (and less days in a 4/3), but on the flip side, it's makes major problems for the rest of the world. Here's a recent article from Fortune magazine with the details:

Recent reports reveal that ocean temperatures are reaching unprecedented highs, raising alarms about the state of our planet. The implications of these rising temperatures are profound, affecting marine ecosystems, weather patterns, and coastal communities. The impacts play out in different ways across regions. Areas around the Black Sea are seeing increases in phytoplankton, or “sea snot,” which disrupts fisheries and maritime trade. Other areas are reporting coral bleaching and dead zones. As we face this new reality, it's crucial to understand what these changes mean for different regions and the global climate.

The Alarming Data

According to a recent UNESCO report, the rate of ocean warming has doubled in the last 20 years, with sea levels rising at an accelerated pace over the past three decades. This rapid warming is driven by increased greenhouse gas emissions, which trap heat in the Earth's atmosphere and subsequently transfer it to the oceans. 

Impacts on Marine Ecosystems

Rising ocean temperatures have devastating effects on marine life. Warmer waters disrupt ecosystems, causing coral bleaching, shifting species distributions, and reducing biodiversity. Coral reefs, which support about 25% of marine species, are particularly vulnerable. As temperatures rise, corals expel the symbiotic algae that give them color and nutrients, leading to large-scale bleaching events.

These changes also affect fish populations. Warmer waters can alter breeding cycles and migration patterns, impacting both commercial and subsistence fisheries. This threatens the livelihoods of millions of people who depend on fishing for food and income.

Climate and Weather Patterns

The heating of the oceans also influences global weather patterns. Higher sea surface temperatures can lead to more intense and frequent hurricanes and typhoons. Warmer waters provide the energy needed for these storms to form and intensify. The economic and social impacts of these events can be devastating, particularly for coastal regions already vulnerable to extreme weather. Higher sea temperatures can significantly affect hurricane activity. This trend suggests that communities along the Atlantic coast may face more severe storm seasons in the future, necessitating stronger preparedness and resilience measures.

Regional Variations and Global Implications

Different regions experience the effects of ocean warming in varied ways. The Arctic, for example, is warming faster than any other region on Earth. This rapid change contributes to the melting of sea ice, which in turn affects global sea levels and weather patterns far beyond the polar regions. As the ice melts, it exposes darker ocean surfaces that absorb more heat, creating a feedback loop that accelerates warming.

In the tropics, rising temperatures contribute to more frequent and severe coral bleaching events, threatening biodiversity hotspots and the livelihoods of coastal communities. In temperate regions, changes in ocean currents can disrupt local climates, leading to unexpected weather patterns and impacts on agriculture and water resources.

Conclusion

The record-breaking ocean temperatures we are witnessing today are a stark reminder of the profound changes occurring in our climate system. These changes have wide-ranging impacts, from marine ecosystems to global weather patterns, and pose significant challenges for communities worldwide. By understanding how the health of our oceans impacts regions and communities, we are better able to take action towards a more sustainable and resilient future for our planet.

PIC OF THE WEEK:

The quintessential American surf spot with just about every surfer in America in the line up. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
As American As Apple Pie
Uncle Sam's Uncle
Odds On Favorite To Win Gold, '24 Olympics

On a side note, THE Surf Report will be dark next week- I'll be surfing and shooting off fireworks. Most likely at the same time. 

THE Surf Report

 

Waddya Say No Wetsuits, Just Wear My Star Trunks.

SURF:

We are THIS close to hitting 70 degree water temps and wearing trunks on the 1st day of summer. Not bad for a La Nina. But before I get ahead of myself, let's talk about our recent run of surf. 2024 has been a heck of a lot fun so far. We've even had a couple big NW and SW swells to boot. The real jewel though is the consistency. Amazing that 2023 was awful in the surf and water temp department and 2024 is a complete 180. For this weekend, we've got a touch of new NW windswell in the water on Friday for chest high sets- mainly towards SD. 

On Saturday, the NW starts to back off while new SW builds for more chest high sets. For Sunday, the NW windswell is tiny while the SW peaks with shoulder high sets towards the OC. All in all a fun weekend of surf- any maybe a chance to wear boardshorts! (More on that below). And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:

• Sunrise and sunset:
• 5:41 AM sunrise 
• 8:00 PM sunset 
• And just like that, it's the longest day of the year on Friday! Which also means the days will get shorter from here on out until December 20th (6:47 AM and 4:47 PM)

• Water temps are 69 and could be climbing slightly this weekend (more on that below in News of the Week)

• And tides are a HOOT this weekend:
• an extreme low of -1' at sunrise
• up to 3.5' at noon
• down to 2.5' mid-afternoon
• and up to a big 6' at sunset

FORECAST:

The fun SW on Sunday rolls into Monday with more chest high+ waves. On Tuesday, we have a slight uptick in NW windswell again- while the SW backs off- and we may see some fun, small combo swell on Tuesday for waist high+ surf. 

The rest of the week looks small and our next shot of surf will be towards Sunday the 29th from a compact storm off Antarctica today. Don't expect much late next weekend- just some waist high S swell with the odd chest high set. 

Further out, models show some storm activity later next week in the southern hemisphere which could give us fun to good SW swell towards the July 4th weekend. And nothing to report from the tropics- which should be expected during a La Nina summer. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf/X (formerly known as Twitter).

WEATHER:

We got a heat wave inland and pleasant weather for the beaches this weekend IF... the low clouds burn off. Look for 110+ degrees in our deserts, 90+ along I-15, 80's in our coastal valleys, and low to mid-70's at the beach. Here's what's in store for the upcoming week:

• Friday/Saturday: Low clouds burning off by mid-day. Temps low 70's at the beach and high 70's a couple miles inland. Lows in the mid-60's.
• Sunday: Low clouds MAY hang around at the beaches if it continues to warm inland. Temps mid-70's at the beaches and maybe 80 just inland? Lows in the mid-60's.
• Monday and beyond: Chance of sun by lunch and temps 75/65. 

BEST BET:

• Sunday with fun SW. Might be Emergency Boardriding System time if we're wearing trunks...
• Next Sunday with small but fun SW.
• Or celebrate America during the long July 4th weekend with new good SW swell! 

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

For those of you that got the 'star trunks' reference on this week's THE Surf Report, I applaud you. For those of you that didn't, you must be under 50. Regardless, nothing says summer like a pair of Quiksilver star trunks and Slater at Lowers. Speaking of wearing trunks in the summer, it all comes down to water temps. Let's have a look at some stats:

Trunks on the first day of summer as we all know is not a given, in fact, it's a rarity unless you're a polar bear. Our constant mild WSW winds the past few weeks has pooled up our water in the Southern CA bight and it's been warming ever since. The past few days in Southern CA has seen 68-69 degree water temps and with the minor heat wave this weekend, we could see our first 70 degree water temps of the year- and time for the majority of us to wear boardshorts (i.e. trunks). 

Would 70 degrees be an anomaly in the historical sense of water temps in SD for this time of year? Yes- but not by much. We should be at 67 degrees and today is 69 in some locations. And if we hit 70 this weekend, that's not too far off. So what gives with the slightly warmer than average water temps during a La Nina?! I'm guessing the culprit is that our overall water temps in our oceans are warmer than normal and it's offsetting the current La Nina in some parts of the Pacific. 

For the warmest water temps we've felt here in SD, that happened in September of 2022 as our last El Nino was building. It also coincided with the the CRAZIEST swing in water temps I have EVER experienced- and I've been surfing for 40 years. We had 75 degrees on the weekend of August 24th. Then it dropped to 62 September 1st. Then Scripps hit 82 degrees on September 7th. Down 13 degrees, then up 20 degrees- all in the span of 2 weeks. 

On the flip side, last summer we had constant NW winds which resulted in cold upwelling. Our water temp on the first day of summer last year? A brisk 64. Just think- we could be 6 degrees warmer than last year at this time. And if you have short term memory, let's not forget that last April had one of the coldest water temps on record here in Southern CA- an unbelievable 52 degrees! (And if you're interested, our coldest water temps usually occur in April anyway from all the NW wind, with an average of 58 degrees).

For those of you that are keeping track of all these water temps I've thrown at you today, look at this:

• Our water temp hit a peak of 82 degrees on September 7th, 2022
• And in the span of 7 months, the water plummeted to 52 degrees on April 4th, 2023
• That's a swing of 30 degrees and over 4 degrees a month!

With all of that being said, let's play a game here. Let's say you have 3 options to choose from for yearly water temps. Would you take:

1. A swing of 30 degrees- from 82 to 52. So Hawaii like temps in the summer but a hooded 5/4/3 in the winter?
2. A normal average of 68 in the summer and 58 in the winter. So trunks may be hard to come by but the worst you wear in the winter is a 4/3.
3. Or just keep the water an average of 63 year round?...

PIC OF THE WEEK:

For those of you that may not know, I won the Powerball a couple years ago and just closed escrow on this compound in the Maldives. How sick is this set up- pickleball and tennis for days on end!!! What- you think I bought it for the surf?

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Industrious
Was Kidding About The Whole Powerball Thing- It Was Mega Millions
Made An Eco Friendly Wax Made Of Deceased Whale Blubber Oil Instead Of Petroleum But Now I'm A Magnet For Sharks

THE Surf Report

 

Drizzle & Sizzle.

SURF:

Been quite a run of surf. Not the biggest per se the last few weeks- but it's been rideable every day. Normally we get a good swell, then it goes quiet for a week or so, and then the waves pick back up again. Not lately- we've had days upon days of waves. I'd rather take that than bombing surf and then flat for a month! For the weekend, we have yet more swells lined up on the horizon but S winds may be an issue towards Sunday. 

The current SW swell today will drop slightly on Friday but a touch of new NW windswell will prop it up on Saturday to the chest high range. 

On Sunday, we have new S swell arriving while the NW windswell rises too. Look for shoulder high+ combo swell (but the S winds may blow early so beware). And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:

• Sunrise and sunset:
• 5:41 AM sunrise 
• 7:59 PM sunset 

• Water temps were slowly rising before the NW winds kicked in the past couple days. Still pleasant though at 66 degrees and happens to be on par for mid-June, even though we're in a La Nina phase. 

• And tides aren't doing much this weekend:
• about 3' at sunrise
• down to 1.5' before lunch
• almost 5' at 6 PM
• and back down to 4' at sunset

FORECAST:

The good combo swell continues Monday and the S winds may hang around too unfortunately. Tuesday has leftover chest high combo swell and Wednesday gets back to the waist high+ range and cleaner conditions. 

Models though show another storm forming this weekend in the southern hemisphere and we could see more shoulder high+ S swell towards the 24th. And nothing to speak of in the tropics yet. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf/X (formerly known as Twitter)!

WEATHER:

Even with the early morning June Gloom drizzle the past week, we have seen the sun late in the day. That looks to be the same scenario as we finish out spring the next 7 days. Here's what's in store:

• Friday through next week: Early morning/late night low clouds but sunny cool afternoons. Temps 67/62. 

BEST BET:

• Sunday/Monday could be good enough to turn on the Emergency Boardriding System IF... the predicted S winds aren't problematic. 
• Or maybe towards the 24th of June with new S swell. 

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

Been some odd red tides around southern California the past few weeks. Kind of a 'now you see it, now you don't' pattern. Currently, it looks like it's dissipating with just southern SD seeing some murky water today. So what caused the red tides recently and every spring the past few years for that matter? Here's CBS News 8 to investigate:

If you’ve been to the beach lately you may have noticed the waves look different. The brownish-looking water is from a red tide that happens this time of year but lately it appears to be more dramatic.

“Foul. It just looks foul,” said local Larry Phelps. SD resident John Giadowski says he can’t see his surf board when he’s riding the waves. “Chocolate milk, kind of, you know, little Nestle’s Nesquick,” he added. Ashley Canchola hasn’t seen brownish water like this in the Venice Beach area where she is from. “I feel as if that is not natural. And it looks orange and metallic, like rust,” said Canchola.

Natural phenomenon

But it is a natural phenomenon. The red tide wasn’t seen clearly at the Scripps Pier in La Jolla but the red tide was dramatic near the Crystal Pier in Pacific Beach. “A red tide just really means there’s a lot of plankton in the water, and it’s causing our eyes to see this reddish color,” said Clarissa Anderson.

She is the director of the Southern California Coastal Ocean Observing System at Scripps Institution of Oceanography. She says robotic microscopes are capturing several images of plankton near the Scripps Pier throughout the day that often flourish during a red tide. “It’s when the plankton in the ocean, these are the tiny, microscopic algae, that are really responsible for most of the oxygen we breathe on the planet and bloom,” said Anderson.

The scientists say the red tide red tide wasn’t as common in the spring into summer until 2019. “It’s been an interesting phenomenon. We don’t know what it means. It might just mean that we’re having more of these warmer stratified conditions in the spring than we used to have,” said Anderson.

While the tide doesn’t look clean it is harmless to humans. “Sometimes people describe it as dirty, but it’s not dirty. These are algae, just like the kelp you see at the ocean,” she said. Anderson adds if someone has asthma or is sensitive to algae they should avoid getting in the water, but for most people it’s safe to get in. “It’s a little scary. I thought it was pollution. But thank you,” said Canchola.

One thing that is off with this week’s red tide is that there is not the bioluminescence light show that people often associate with the red tide. “Normally, when it’s this at night, you get that, that bioluminescence, but at this point, it’s already dying off, and it’s not even glowing at night,” said Anderson.

Researchers are checking the images of plankton in this week’s red tide and have not found the organism that causes the waves to glow in a red tide. “It’s really one organism who’s incredibly good at creating bioluminescence, and it is one of the many that can form a red tide,” said Anderson.

The red tide may also be impacting sharks. She agrees with the Cal State Long Beach Shark Lab. They told CBS 8 since there was a prominent red tide in Del Mar where a shark bit a swimmer recently, the shark may have been caught in the dense plankton.

“If you’re a shark and you’re underneath that and you’re hunting, it may very well be that your vision is obscured. We know they don’t have great vision as it is, and that your vision is obscured as you’re coming up through the water column to hunt prey that you could mistake your prey and accidentally bite a human,” said Anderson.

BEST OF THE BLOG:

Surf is up and the sun is out- must be time for another North County Board Meeting event! As you know, NCBM was founded on 4 pillars: networking, charitable work, finding an excuse to ride waves, and... supporting local surf owned business. Which brings us to Coffee Coffee and the crew from Surfhouse, who gave it a remodel just in time for summer. Come join us on Thursday EVENING (coffee isn’t just for breakfast anymore), June 20th at 5:30 PM to grab a drink, maybe a slice of pizza or two, network, and learn about the origins of this iconic business in Leucadia. And feel free to bring a friend! The only prerequisite is to have a passion for riding waves. Thanks for supporting your community and we’ll see you on the 20th!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

There's just something about the tropics. Is it the abundance of empty waves? Is it the warm water? Is it the sun for days on end? Is it the free coconuts? Gotta be the coconuts. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Indestructible
Turning June Gloom Into June Glam
Captain, USA Surf Team

THE Surf Report

 

I ❤️ La Nina.

SURF:

El Nino typically means bigger storms from the Aleutians and Baja due to warmer waters. It also means less June Gloom and wearing boardshorts longer in the year. La Nina on the other hand means colder waters and less significant storms as well as more coastal low clouds. And that seems to be the case with this season's La Nina as hurricane formation is non-existent, our water temps are a few degrees colder than average, and our sunny skies are few and far between. BUT... we've had quite the run of surf from the southern hemisphere this La Nina and I'll take that over sunny skies and flat days anytime. 

The firing surf today from the SW and late season NW will taper off over the weekend with chest high sets Friday morning and waist high+ surf Saturday/Sunday. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:

• Sunrise and sunset:
• 5:40 AM sunrise 
• 7:56 PM sunset 
• Just a reminder the longest day of the year is June 20th- sun will set at 8 PM!

• Buoys are saying water temps are 63-65 but with the upwelling from the recent swells, it feels low 60's FYI. AND.. there are still reports of red tide here and there so beware those of you with sinus problems. 

• And tides are LOW in the mornings:
• about -1' at sunrise
• around 3.5' at lunch
• and up to 5' at sunset

FORECAST:

After a lull in the surf this weekend, things ramp up again. 

We've got more late season NW for waist to chest high waves in northern SD County and maybe chest high+ sets in far southern SD. 

On it's heels Tuesday is a fun SW swell for more chest high+ surf in northern SD County. 

That is followed by a fairly sizeable SW swell mid month (June 14-16 timeframe) for well overhead sets. I'm thinking this swell will be slightly larger than the waves we had today. If so, time to turn on the Emergency Boardriding System folks! If anything changes between now and then, make sure to get the latest updates on North County Surf/X (formerly known as Twitter).

WEATHER:

You've probably heard of the heat wave this week terrorizing the western US with temps near 110 in the deserts and 90 inland. For us along the coast, not so much. In fact, we're overcast, drizzle is falling, and I'm wearing a jacket mid-day in June. What does it look like next week? More of the same. Here's what's in store:

• Friday: Cloudy. Temps 68/62.
• Saturday. Models show a peak of sun late in the day? Ha! I'll believe it when I see it. Temps 68/62.
• Sunday and beyond: June Gloom

BEST BET:

• Monday with small but fun NW
• Tuesday with fun SW
• Next weekend with solid SW

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

For all the bad press May Gray and June Gloom get, they are a natural heat shield for Southern California. Anyone who shivered through our overcast Memorial Day at the beach knows that Southern California has a tendency to serve up gray days this time of the year. We call it May Gray and June Gloom, but the heavy-looking gray clouds that blot out the sun aren’t just the bane of beachgoers. They serve an important environmental role. Here's the San Diego Union Tribune to explain:

The featureless marine-layer stratus clouds occur at low levels of the atmosphere, and they generally don’t produce any rain, although they’re capable of producing drizzle or mist. More important, they serve as a natural heat shield for heavily populated coastal Southern California, efficiently reflecting the sun’s rays back into space. This cooling effect makes the Southland more livable in the days near the summer solstice, when the path of sunlight is most direct.

“That natural AC is absolutely part of the culture and ecology in California — certainly keeping property values high along the coast,” said John Abatzoglou, a climate scientist at UC Merced. Even if the clouds clear around midday, as they frequently do, they leave the sun less time to heat up the landscape. When the marine layer is especially deep, some beach spots may struggle to clear, or may not clear at all.

The clouds reflect the sun’s radiation away from the Earth’s surface and modulate the exchange of heat between Earth and space. Without the clouds, the loss of moisture from vegetation is hastened, increasing the summer wildfire potential. In addition, the clouds sometimes add a bit of moisture to vegetation and soil in the form of drizzle.

Extreme heat waves like the one that gripped the West Coast this week are caused by exceptionally strong, stubborn ridges of high pressure over the region. They push downward in the atmosphere and squeeze the protective marine layer out. A semi-permanent area of high pressure sets up over the eastern Pacific in the spring and summer. Meanwhile, there is lower pressure inland in California. Since high pressure flows toward lower pressure, this sets up the prevailing northwest onshore winds that blow along the California coast.

The northwest winds contribute to upwelling, where the cold California Current flows southward from Alaska. Surface waters are pushed aside by the winds and are replaced with cold water from the deep. When moist sea breezes blow across this frigid water, the air is chilled and the water vapor condenses into clouds.

In the atmosphere, temperature normally decreases with altitude. But this chilled layer is much colder than the air immediately above it. The warmer layer acts like a lid or cover trapping the cold air at the surface, in what is called a temperature inversion. The depth of the marine layer can vary. If the inversion “lid” is shallow or low in altitude, it confines the marine layer to the coastal beaches. For example, high pressure aloft can squeeze the temperature inversion closer to the ground — below 1,000 feet above sea level — creating dense fog. In other words, a cloud that is at ground level, explained Eric Boldt, a meteorologist with the National Weather Service in Oxnard.

If the high pressure overhead weakens, the inversion can deepen to more than 1,000 feet. That allows the clouds to form above the ground, creating less fog. “Once the inversion gets to 1,500 feet or higher, that’s when you begin to see clouds and fog further inland across the San Fernando and San Gabriel valleys, bumping up to the foothills near Pasadena,” Boldt said. When lower pressure approaches the region, the inversion can lift above 3,000 to 3,500 feet, he said. That would push the marine layer well into the mountains or the canyons of the Antelope Valley.

When the northwest winds come down the Central Coast, they interact with the coastal topography as they round Point Conception, behaving much as water does on the downstream side of rocks or obstructions in a river. They can weaken and turn southeasterly over the Southern California Bight, the sweeping concave curvature of the coast that stretches south to the Mexican Border, and includes the Channel Islands.

These veering winds form a counterclockwise eddy circulation near Catalina Island. This coastal or Catalina eddy acts like a tiny low-pressure system that lifts the air and condenses water vapor into low clouds that can produce night and morning drizzle over the ocean and nearby coastal areas.

With the arrival of summer, high pressure usually strengthens over the Southwest. That eliminates the inversion lid, or there sometimes is weak offshore flow replacing the northwesterly onshore winds. The temperature difference between the ocean and the nearby land is reduced, decreasing significant cloud development. Northwest winds and eddies can persist — although they’re often weaker — in the summer and still occasionally give us clouds near the beaches, Boldt said.

High pressure over the Southwest means beachgoers can expect more clear skies, but the moist, protective marine layer that pushes into the inland valleys earlier in the season is largely gone. That means the region is entirely at the mercy of the sun and its heat, except where monsoon thunderstorms produce late-summer clouds. So cheer up- sunny days are ahead! Eventually. 

BEST OF THE BLOG:

It’s time for ANOTHER North County Board Meeting event, this time a mixer to support a local surf owned business. From the masterminds that brought you Surfhouse, we give you…. Coffee Coffee! Come join us on Thursday EVENING (coffee isn’t just for breakfast anymore), June 20th at 5:30 PM to grab a drink, maybe a slice of pizza or two, network, and learn about the origins of this iconic business in Leucadia. And feel free to bring a friend! The only prerequisite is to have a passion for riding waves. Thanks for supporting your community and we’ll see you on the 20th!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Why do they call the World Surf League the 'Dream Tour'? Because the pros left Tahiti last week and now they flew into this at Punta Roca, El Salvador. Included on that trip are local heroes Jake Marshall and commentator Chris Cote. Wonder if they're excited to eventually come back to our June Gloom? 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
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