Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Surf Check 8/30/11


Hold tight- we're almost there. Today is a transition day between swells.

After a fun weekend of chest high+ SW/NW combo, we've got a continued NW with inconsistent SW underneath. Waves look to be waist to chest high and fun little peaks up and down the beach. Unfortunately the low clouds and cool weather don't get my mojo going. Wind is currently blowing SW at 5.

Hazy sunshine should prevail around lunchtime today but the clouds should come back again late this afternoon. This weather pattern should last through Thursday. On the bright side, we've got two and maybe 3 solid swells lined up, starting late tomorrow. By now you've heard of the Teahupoo contest the past few days where the ASP World Tour competitors were treated like human guinea pigs as contest director Luke Egan sent the boys out into some of the biggest nastiest surf ever held for a professional contest. That same swell is marching up the coast and we should see some fun sets by the afternoon tomorrow and solid overhead waves Thursday- with double overhead sets at the best spots in the OC.

But wait! There's more! If you order now, we'll throw in a good chest high NW windswell event too! Winds are blowing around 25mph off Point Conception today and will increase to near 35mph Thursday. That will result in chest high NW windswell with maybe shoulder high surf in south SD. Combine that with the overhead+ SW swell and you've got wedges galore at the beachbreaks.

And if you act now, you'll get a bonus S swell from our next hurricane! Models are showing an area of organized clouds off mainland Mexico this morning and that should form into a tropical storm by tomorrow. If all goes according to plan, we could see a hurricane by Friday and hopefully hitting our swell window by Saturday. If that's the case, we hope to see some swell by Monday. Keep your fingers crossed on this one. If I had to pick one day to surf, it might be Thursday as that looks like the peak of the SW swell but the weather will be better Friday... so take your pick. Word to the wise- if there's still solid swell on Friday and the weather is nice, you just know everyone is going to skip work and school... so beware the crowds!

And make sure to check the tides the next few days as we've got a pretty big swing occurring and the swells will react differently of course. We've got a 0' tide around 6am, going to 6' at 11am, then down to 0' at 5pm and up slightly to 2' at sunset. Water temps are around 66 in the OC and 69 in SD.