Got a mess out there today. Storm's a comin' through and the surf is a mess. Early this morning we had clean conditions with light SE winds and chest high NW surf. This afternoon though is another story as the swell
is picking up but the winds are too. Currently they're blowing 15mph from the SW and forecasted to hit 25mph tonight as they switch to the NW.
Good news is that the NW is picking up- but it's from the NW windswell unfortunately. Look for overhead sets from the NW tomorrow and strong N winds. Models show the winds switching to the NE tomorrow once the cold front moves through tonight but I don't think it will happen that quickly. My bet is on breezy N wind conditions tomorrow. Most likely by Thursday morning we'll have offshore NE winds again.
As advertised above, we have a cold front moving through the area today. Showers should end by tonight. Looks like we'll pick up around 1/2" of rain from it. High pressure sets up tomorrow through Saturday and we'll have clear cool conditions. By Sunday evening into Christmas Eve morning, we get another similar front moving through for maybe 1/4"-1/2" of rain and breezy conditions. Christmas day looks to be clear and cool.
As far as the surf goes the next few days, it drops off with some waist high+ NW waves by Thursday. Currently models show a storm brewing in the north Pacific tomorrow and we should have a shot of head high NW swell again on Friday afternoon through Christmas Eve (with overhead sets in SD- guess those guys made Santa's 'nice' list). Not a bad early Xmas present regardless. Hopefully though the forecasted storm on Sunday night won't be as strong as predicted and we enjoy a few days of clean surf around here.
