Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Surf Check



We finally have some surf filling in today and more is coming. I love fall! (And last week when it was small I said I hated fall). Today we have steep NW groundswell hitting the Point Conception buoy and we should see some chest high sets later today in north county and shoulder high in SD. Water temps continue to drop and are hovering around 64 degrees.

Tides the next few days are 2' at sunrise, up to 5.5' at 11am, and down to 0' at sunset.
As far as the weather goes, just more typical night and morning low clouds and fog with hazy afternoon sunshine. Air temps are high 60's during the day and high 50's at night. High pressure sets up slightly for the weekend for less low clouds/fog and temps getting above the 70 degree mark. Then the fog thickens up again the beginning of next week. Models also show a low pressure system moving our way the 2nd half of next week- which may interfere with Halloween...

So what's the surf looking like later this week? We had some small disturbances in the southern hemisphere a few days ago that shot SW swell our way. The OC will have shoulder high sets tomorrow from the combo NW/SW. Down here in north county SD we'll continue to have chest high waves. And the NW starts to fizzle out in SD by Thursday for waist high+ surf.
Fear not SD- more fun NW is on the charts for late Friday into Saturday. Looks like chest high+ surf for SD and waist to chest high surf in north county SD.
One interesting note: Hurricane Raymond. Currently hugging mainland Mexico, it has winds of 115mph but it's not in our swell window. One model shows it moving due W (in our window) and weakening (not good).
Another model though shows it turning N (towards us- good) and gaining strength again. If that were the case, we could see some good S hurricane swell towards the 29th. Very interesting.
Also interesting is some more chest high+ NW headed our way towards the 29th. Lots of waves on the charts. Keep your fingers crossed they hold up!
And if that wasn't enough... we have a storm in the southern hemisphere today that will send us more SW swell towards the 29th too. (What's up with the 29th?! I'm buying a lottery ticket that day). The OC should see shoulder high sets and north SD county some chest high waves. All in all, looking like some fun surf the next week for us with mild weather until Halloween.

Sunday, October 20, 2013

North County Business News: Aid for SURFAID

I don't ask for a lot of things on the North County Surf blog. Just the simple stuff like the waves gods to send us swell, your undivided attention, kooks to clear the line up, a free board here and there. Ok, I ask for a lot of things. But anyway, ran into a buddy of mine a few weeks ago and I though it was time to tell you about the company he works for.
My friend is Randal Schober and he's the US executive director of SURFAID International. If you've been around the surf industry the past decade or so, you may have heard of the organization he works for or maybe didn't know the scope of work they do. In a nutshell, SURFAID is a non-profit humanitarian organization whose aim is to improve the health, well being and self reliance of people living in isolated regions connected to us through surfing.
Fantastic idea- connecting surfers to regions of the world in need. Considering all of the amazing waves discovered in the past few decades- and a majority in 3rd world countries- someone stepped up to the plate and decided to give back. One of those people was Dr. Dave Jenkins. Founded in New Zealand in 2000, Dr. Jenkins noticed all the surfers on plush boat trips surfing Indonesia that never set foot on land. Had they of course, they would have seen the children in need of nutrition and basic health care to ward of diseases like malaria, cholera, etc. So Dr. Jenkins set out on educating the local villages so they could help each other eliminate these awful conditions. But it hasn't been easy; with a population of 250 million and 17,500 islands to cover, getting the word out has been a challenge. One of the first things Dr. Jenkins noticed was that a greeting in Indonesia is to place your hand over your heart. The Indonesian culture unfortunately uses their rivers, streams, etc. to dump their human waste, trash, etc. in to. At the same time, they're drinking from the same streams, washing their clothes, and yes, welcoming you by putting their hands over their hearts. Another obstacle that needed to be overcome was the use of malaria nets. Dr. Jenkins and his team had been handing them out to villagers and when they came back to check on their progress, they noticed they had been using them as fishing nets. But they had no choice- it was either use the nets to catch fish so their family wouldn't starve or take the chance they wouldn't get malaria. The good news is that the education is working. SURFAID has now expanded to 4 offices around the world (Australia, the US, Indonesia, and New Zealand) and they've expanded their scope of work to include pre and post natal education, disaster preparedness as Indonesia is infamous to earthquakes and tsunamis, and they are looking to spread the word to other regions of the world.
So what can we do to help? Donations of course are key and you can visit their webpage here. They also have multiple events around the world to help spread the word- like the recent Malibu Cup attended by my idol Tom Curren. You might even run into a few SURFAID amabassadors like Jack Johnson, Kelly Slater, Parko, Occy, Taj, Machado, etc. etc. etc. at one of the events. SURFAID will also be attending the upcoming Downtown Encinitas Mainstreet Association Fall Festival happening November 24th, so make sure to stop by their booth and learn more about SURFAID. Or if you happen to be in downtown Encinitas, stop by and see Randal and his staff at 530 Second Street and ask how you can help; they even have a few internships open during the year which is a great way to give back if you can't make it down to Indonesia to help!

When you have a few moments (which I know you do because the surf is flat right now), check out SURFAID International for more information.


Friday, October 18, 2013

THE Surf Report


Great weather, small waves. Welcome to Florida!

SURF:
Amazing weather this past week and a little bit of S swell to keep us from going crazy. Towards the OC they had some chest high sets but down here in SD it's been pretty small. Still waiting for a big swell so I can crack open that 6'6" but until then, it's the 5'6" groveler.
Today we've dying small S swell in the water and it's pretty flat down here in SD- maybe some waist high waves in the far north county. The OC has an inconsistent chest high set. For the weekend- more great weather- and smaller surf if that's possible. All in all you'll have to wait until next week. Water temps are starting to feel like fall too- 65 degrees.
And the tides the next few days are 4' at sunrise, 6.5' mid-morning, down to -1' around 4pm, and up to 2' at sunset. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves/weather at Twitter/North County Surf.     

FORECAST:

After the small weekend, we get a little bit of relief Monday afternoon from the WNW. Should see some chest high waves around here and shoulder high surf in south SD.
We also had a small storm in the southern hemisphere flare up a few days ago and will be sending some chest high waves in the far north county and OC towards the 23rd/24th.
The north Pacific doesn't want to be outdone though and models show a small storm shooting some chest high sets to SD around the 26th and then a solid storm forming mid-week which would give us overhead NW in SD county towards the 29th.
We also have a storm off Antarctica on the charts trying to form towards Monday which would give us a shot of chest high SW around the 29th too. So SD and OC would get waves around the same time. Mighty nice of the Pacific. Sure hoping the models are right on that big NW for the 29th...

WEATHER:

Great weather on tap in the foreseeable future. What can I say that hasn't been said? Might have some patchy low clouds towards Saturday/Sunday morning but it will be minor and the sun will be out mid-morning. That's IF the low clouds even show up- the atmosphere is pretty dry and high pressure is in control. Basically look for clear skies until at least mid-week and beach temps around 75. Models show a low pressure system sitting off our coast mid-week that might move ashore the 2nd half of the week for showers- but until then it's going to be great fall weather.

BEST BET:
In the near term Tuesday in SD with the new fun WNW. Or Thursday in the OC with the new SW. OR... if that big NW takes shape and the smaller SW shows, then the 29th. But that's a long ways away.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

I'm hoping you've heard this story by now. If not, I've got a fish tale to share. From the LA Times (and most media outlets) this week:

Staff at a marine institute are trying to figure out what to do with the carcass of an 18-foot-long sea creature discovered off the coast of Catalina Island. Marine science instructor Jasmine Santana was shocked to confront the rare oarfish Sunday in the waters of Toyon Bay, about two miles from Avalon and 22 miles off the Port of Los Angeles. It was the “discovery of a lifetime,” according to a news release from the Catalina Island Marine Institute, where Santana works. The snake-like fish was found late Sunday afternoon dead but nearly intact, according to the release, adding it appeared to have died from natural causes. “It took 15 or 20 of us to pick it up,” said Jeff Chace, a program director with CIMI, which runs a camp at Toyon Bay that teaches children to snorkel, kayak and hike, according to KTLA-TV. Instructors from CIMI were unloading gear from a trip to Santa Barbara Island when they spotted Santana pulling the oarfish ashore. “The craziest thing we saw during our two-day journey at sea happened when we got home,” instructor Connor Gallagher said in the news release.
The oarfish, which can grow to more than 50 feet, is a deep-water pelagic fish — the longest bony fish in the world, Chace said. It’s rare to see one so close to shore, he said. “It’s one of these rare, weird things you see in Southern California,” Chace said CIMI is trying to figure out what to do with the silvery fish’s body. The program has been in touch with UC Santa Barbara and the Museum of Natural History in Los Angeles, Chace said, according to the TV station. “We can’t even really fit it into our freezer,” he said. The scientists may decide to bury the carcass and let it decompose under the sand.

Kind of awesome to think there's all kinds of big critters besides sharks and whales swimming around out there.

BEST OF THE BLOG:

Just when you think the surfing world has passed you by with alley-oops and reverse airs comes along a 20 minute clip of some man turns done by none other than T. Knox, the Coffin brothers, and the new keg on legs Tanner Gudauskas. Heck- even Connor Coffin is riding a replica Tom Curren Black Beauty. Sick! Watch some real surfing at J-Bay on the North County Surf blog's 'Clip of the Day'. And of course a mid-week Surf Check and an in-depth THE Surf Report. All of that and more in the blog below!  

PIC OF THE WEEK:

When the surf goes flat around here, my mind starts to go in weird places. Like today's Pic of the Day. Not really rideable but beautiful in it's own right. Starting to look good right about now. I'm not crazy. Am I crazy? Did you hear that?! Who said that?!

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Official
Time Traveler
Stylish Even in a Short John and Booties

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Clip of the Day: Not An Air In Sight



Now don't get me wrong- I like a good solid air like the rest of you- like a big Julian alley-oop in Portugal or Marzo at some sketchy reef in Hawaii. But a big filthy man turn (that didn't sound right) is where we need to get back to in surfing. A bunny hop in 2' slop isn't surfing- but a gouging Richard Cram cutback is where it's at. Or where it needs to be right now. The Association of Surfing Professionals has taken note this year with solid rail surfing scoring just as much as reverse airs. That's why Mick Fanning leads the ratings, Kelly Slater is 2nd, Joel Parkinson is 5th, Michelle Bourez is 7th, and Kai Otton is 10th. Sure Jordy Smith is ranked 3rd and Taj Burrow 4th, but they can hack it with the best of the old school guys. And the young fly boys who have every trick known to man above the lip? John John Florence is all the way down the ratings at 14, Gabriel Medina is 15th, and Kolohe Andino is 23rd. So where am I going with all this?! It seems like every clip that comes out on the internet nowadays is 'who can do the biggest reverse air'. Well I'm here to tell you that today is a new day in the surf world and the crew at What Youth have put out a clip without an air in sight. They took Conner Coffin (who's coached by style master Brad Gerlach no less), his brother Parker, lead foot Tanner Gudauskas, and Richard Cram protege' Taylor Knox to Jeffrey's Bay. And it's damn good J-Bay no less- WAAAAY better than the ASP contests of the past few years. The clip is an astounding 19 minutes long (vs. the current 'air' clips of a couple minutes) and the juicy stuff is in the 2nd half of the clip- well overhead right walls and enough offshores to generate windmill electricity for New York City. Along with solid turns, barrels, and stylish surfing, it will make you want to pull your 6'6" out of the rafters and take it out this weekend for a spell. If we had surf that is. So put the kids to bed, crack open a PBR, and enjoy what surfing is supposed to be: man turns.

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Surf Check

 
What a fantastic day outside! Too bad I'm stuck in a cubicle at work. Regardless- what a fantastic day outside! Not missing much though; the surf is pretty small...
We've got knee high+ NW/SW combo swell with the best spots in the OC getting inconsistent waist high sets from the SW. Water temps are still holding at 67 and the air temp is in the mid-70's at the beaches. Could almost trunk it right now if there were waves to ride.
Tides the next few days are 3' at sunrise, up to 6' mid-morning, down to 0' mid-afternoon, and back up to 3' at sunset.
If you like the weather today, then you're going to love the next week. High pressure has set up shop and we've got clear skies, light winds, and temps in the mid to high 70's at the beaches. There's a weak low pressure system making it's way up north later in the week that may give us a couple clouds towards Thursday but it's going to be minor. Then high pressure sets back up again for more great weather this weekend.
As far as the surf goes, we haven't had any major storms the past few days in the southern or northern hemisphere aimed at us so we're left with begging a couple small tropical storms to send us surf. Octave peaked yesterday with 60 mph winds and has since slammed into Baja. Priscilla on the other hand is still spinning in the ocean but peaked earlier at 50 mph. Not the biggest swell makers. Northern OC though MIGHT see a chest high set tomorrow and into Thursday. Down here in SD we'll be lucky to get some waist high waves from them.
Going further out, high pressure is keeping the storms in the north Pacific at bay so we're left with pretty flat conditions this weekend. Did I tell you the weather is going to be nice though? So we got that going for us.

For next week, we have a couple storms on the charts today, that if everything holds, we should get some fun SW towards Tuesday and a good WNW around the same time. Look for chest high waves in the OC from the SW, chest high combo WNW/SW in north county SD, and shoulder high sets from the WNW in southern SD.
 
So until then, enjoy the good weather, fix those dings, and get some surf next week. 






Thursday, October 10, 2013

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Back to normal.

SURF:

A little bit of everything this past week: Small clean combo surf, big stormy NW swell, and tonight clean new SW swell with a touch of dying NW. Tomorrow we'll have building SW swell, clean conditions and some tiny NW windswell mixed in. Look for shoulder high sets in north county SD Friday from the SW with head high waves in the OC. Just tiny NW again also. Then for Saturday it's peaking SW and not much NW to break up the lines so it may be a little walled.
By Sunday the SW is on it's way down and the NW windswell creeps back up again; most spots should be chest high. All in all some fun SW this weekend and clean conditions.
Water temps have dropped to 66 and tides are 3' at sunrise, up to 5' at 3pm, and down to 3' again at sunset. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves/weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

FORECAST:
Fun swell this weekend will lead to pretty flat conditions next week. Lack of storms = lack of surf.
Charts show a storm trying to take shape tomorrow in the southern hemisphere which may give the OC some chest high sets late next weekend but that's about it.
Hopefully the northern hemisphere will come to life next week and we'll get some NW again.

WEATHER:

Kind of cool to see the wind and rain again around here. Even a stray thunderstorm rolled through Wednesday night. The storm has since departed and weak high pressure is setting up this weekend. Look for sunny skies and temps near 70 at the beaches. High pressure builds slightly further towards the middle of next week and we may be back to the high 70's around here.

BEST BET:
All weekend: Some leftover NW windswell tomorrow with building SW. Or on Saturday better SW but no NW. OR... dying SW on Sunday but building small NW. Place your bets.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:
Now that was a good storm. Considering it's early October AND we didn't get much rain last year, it did a good job of getting us in the mood for the holidays (only 75 more shopping days 'til Xmas)! Now granted, it wasn't a heavy rain producer like an El Nino storm (i.e. 1"+) but it did give us decent totals. Here's some stats from yesterday's storm:

RAIN:
Lake Cuyamaca: 2.58"
Laguna Beach: 0.51"
Carlsbad: 0.27"
Dana Point: 0.27"
Del Mar: 0.25"
Newport Beach: 0.20"
Oceanside: 0.17"
Huntington Beach: 0.15"
San Diego: 0.07"

WIND:
Sky Valley, Coachella Valley: 78mph
Local mountains 45-60mph
Most coastal locations were 20-25mph

It always seems like mid-October when we get our first shot of showers of the season, so we're about a week ahead of schedule. Normal is about 10" for the year and we got less than half of that last year.

BEST OF THE BLOG:

Notice the new radar at Ponto? It reads the ocean conditions and sends out a high pitched siren when a set is approaching. Seriously. And I have some swamp land in Florida I want to sell you. Read the story on the North County Surf blog. And of course a mid-week Surf Check and an in-depth THE Surf Report. All of that and more in the blog below!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Ever heard the expression 'Corduroy to the horizon'? This is what they mean. Times 10. How many lines can you count in this photo? Correct answer wins a free bar of wax.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Model. Citizen.
Secretly Miss Baywatch
The Last Wave Warrior

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Big Brother is Watching Your Every Maneuver


You've probably noticed the search for unintelligent life going on at Ponto beach in south Carlsbad lately. Or maybe saw the radar and figured it was a surf forecasting tool for the North County Surf blog. Or maybe you were like me and didn't know what the heck it was until you read the following story from the San Diego Union Tribune:
 
CARLSBAD — A large radar device recently installed at Carlsbad’s Ponto Beach is part of a federal crackdown on drug and immigrant smuggling along the California coast.

The device, which can track any vessel within 20 miles, could help law enforcement agencies spot and apprehend smuggling boats or terrorists before they get to shore. It is the first of its kind in the country.

Federal officials have begun to focus more on securing the coastline after sharply reducing smuggling by air during the past 25 years, said Keith Jones of the Air and Marine Operations Center in Riverside, which is run by U.S. Customs and Border Protection.

“We have a very good handle on the air game and now we’re trying to respond to this new threat,” said Jones, noting that smuggling along the coast has been on the rise. “We’re targeting small vessels, which have been challenging for us.”

That’s where the Ponto Beach radar device, which sits atop a cliff high above the ocean, can make a difference, Jones said. It expands the government’s surveillance reach roughly five-fold, because most shoreline radar devices can only track vessels within four miles of the coast.

Since the radar device was installed in early August, data from Ponto Beach has been flowing into the operations center in Riverside, which has a large surveillance room similar to NASA’s Mission Control in Houston.

New software allows officials in Riverside to combine that data with smaller radar detectors, footage from police and Coast Guard cameras along the shore, and data from government planes flying over the coastline.

The goal is launching a coastal surveillance system later this year that integrates all available data in one place, while also adding new information from devices like the one in Carlsbad, Jones said.

“We’d love to have them up and down the coast, but we’re not sure how many we’ll have,” he said, noting that the devices are expensive. “It could be dozens or it could be hundreds.”

The radar device was installed on a 60-day trial basis to determine whether the data it gathered would be useful. Jones said officials have been pleased with the results so far.

He said Carlsbad was chosen because it’s in the government’s geographic “threat vector.”

Several small boats smuggling both immigrants and drugs have landed on the shore near Ponto Beach in recent years. Police and Coast Guard officials have made some arrests, but they also concede that some boats are probably landing undetected late at night or before sunrise.

Jones said the increase in smuggling by boat is because of heightened security at the international border and government efforts to eliminate smuggling by air.

“Back in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, air smuggling was a huge problem,” he said. “We hope to slowly and steadily make the same progress with maritime smuggling.”

Thomas Tomaiko, a program manager for the borders and maritime division of the U.S. Department of Homeland Security, stressed that law-abiding boat operators wouldn’t be harassed.

“The overwhelming majority of small vessels operating in and around the United States coasts and in our ports and inland waterways are engaged in legitimate activities,” he said. “However, a small number are platforms for illegal or illicit activities, such as human and drug trafficking, and may be used for waterborne attacks on our maritime infrastructure.”
 
 
At Ponto Beach on Wednesday, swimmers and sunbathers criticized the gray radar device as unattractive. But they also said smuggling was a large enough problem that such efforts were warranted.

“It’s a little distracting,” said Gina Eckert, referring to the constantly spinning 12-foot bar atop the device. “But we’re looking this way, at the ocean, not up there. And they need things like that so they can see who’s out there.”

The device, which is along the western edge of Carlsbad Boulevard just south of Avenida Encinas, has raised a lot of eyebrows since it was installed, lifeguard Erik Burgan said.

Jones, the Customs and Border Protection official, praised the state Parks Department, which oversees Ponto Beach, for allowing the radar device to be installed on short notice without any hassle.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Surf Check

 
Bad news: It's tiny today. Good news: It's picking up tomorrow! Bad news: There's a storm comin'.
 
That's basically it in a nutshell. Just small knee high+ NW/SW today. We've got 10mph SW winds on it from the approaching cold front tonight (more on that below). So we've got small waves, blown out conditions, and showers coming tomorrow. Where's the good news again?
Well... we've got a building NW windswell off our coast today that will arrive Wednesday afternoon. That should be good for chest high waves around here and shoulder high in SD. Windswell of course is created by wind- and in this case the approaching cold front- so we should also have 20mph+ winds from the W tomorrow. Think of the bright side- lots of peaky consistent surf with no one out.
Once the front blows through, we've got some small SW swell created last week that will show on Thursday. About chest high towards the OC. Unfortunately the departing cold front may leave in it's wake strong NW winds that will shred any kind of swell out there. Hoping conditions clean up by Friday and we'll have small leftover SW by then.
Looking further out, it will be pretty small next week. There's no real NW or SW swells to speak of. Hopefully by next weekend (around the 20th) we start to get more SW and NW swells by then from the storms shown on the models above. If we can just keep the cold fronts at bay...
Speaking of cold fronts, the aforementioned 'storm' coming tomorrow is pretty weak but it's our first showers since... well maybe last March it seems like. Look for winds about 20mph tomorrow, showers leaving up to 1/4" of rain by Thursday morning, and hopefully clean conditions by Friday. The weekend should be sunny and mild. The charts maybe show another small cold front early next week but it doesn't look that impressive so don't hold your breath.
Water temps are still a pleasant 68 degrees and tides are all over the place the next few days: about 2' at dawn, up to 6' at noon, and down to 0' at sunset.

Have a good week and enjoy the first storm surf of the season!