Thursday, August 31, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


August inland, May at the coast.

SURF:
The inland areas have seen a lot of August this past week with hot weather and tropical clouds, but here at the coast, it’s been a repeat of May with low clouds sticking around, no hurricane swells in sight, and our water temps are a cool 67 degrees.


On the bright side, we finally saw some rideable S swell this week with a touch of NW windswell. So what's on tap for this holiday weekend? Not much unfortunately. What a way to celebrate! No major storms this past week = no major surf this weekend. At least we have a few days off to sit back, open a cold one, and reminisce about the El Nino of 2015/2016. Look for small background S this weekend and a touch of NW windswell for waist high sets. The fly in the ointment is if high pressure builds slightly and the low clouds may finally dissipate by Saturday.


Also, Hurricane Lidia is taking aim at Cabo this weekend and is forecasted to move up the coast. The odd thing about Lidia is that she’s not really over open ocean (where she could generate surf) but rather over the Baja Peninsula. As she moves up the coast towards us, we MAY get a little odd S windswell late Sunday- but that’s only if she moves off the land and into the water. I guess we’ll find out!


Tides the next few days are 4' at sunrise, down to 2' after lunch, and almost 5' at sunset.

FORECAST:
If the Lidia S windswell does materialize late Sunday, look for it to be gone by Monday. After that it’s pretty flat around here with just some background small knee high NW windswell to start the week.



Models show an early season storm taking shape this weekend in the Aleutians that may give us chest high sets from the NW next Thursday and another NW around Monday the 11th. As far as SW swells from Antarctica or real S hurricane swells: Nothing. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

WEATHER:


Tricky forecast for the coming week. Finally something to talk about since the surf won’t cooperate! As mentioned above, high pressure may strengthen slightly this weekend and push the clouds out to sea. Temps at the beaches will be around 80 and sunny skies. Normal for August. Then Lidia moves up the coast from Baja and we should see an even bigger increase in tropical moisture than what we saw today (incredibly), and a stray shower at the coast may be possible late Sunday/Monday. Lidia is gone by Tuesday  and the rest of next week is warm again at the beach IF… the low clouds don’t hug the coast. It’s a safe bet that we’ll see hot steamy weather east of the 5 freeway  again and MAYBE some sun at the coast- and a chance at a stray tropical shower on Monday.  

BEST BET:
Small leftover S/NW tomorrow, MAYBE S windswell from Lidia late Sunday, and new small NW next Thursday. Keep that Rhino Chaser in the closet.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


By now you’ve heard of the ongoing devastation from Hurricane Harvey. Here’s some numbers to put it in perspective:

1
The rain from Harvey is in a class of its own. The storm has unloaded over 50 inches of rain east of Houston, the greatest amount ever recorded in the Lower 48 states from a single storm. John Nielsen-Gammon, Texas state climatologist, said a rain gauge near Mont Belvieu at Cedar Bayou, about 40 miles east of Houston, had registered 51.9 inches of rain through late Tuesday afternoon. This total exceeds the previous record of 48 inches set during tropical cyclone Amelia in Medina, Texas in 1978.

2
The number of Category 4 hurricanes on record that have made landfall in the Texas Coastal Bend region. Hurricane Carla in September 1961 produced catastrophic damage from storm surge and high winds in Port O'Connor and Palacios, Texas, among other locations.
The only other Category 4 landfall of record near the Texas Coastal Bend was the infamous Indianola hurricane of August 1886, which devastated the town of Indianola just 11 years after another Category 3 hurricane, eventually turning the former bustling port into a ghost town.

3
Nearly any city would be overwhelmed by the more than 4 feet of rain that Hurricane Harvey has dumped since Friday, but Houston is unique in its regular massive floods and inability to cope with them. This is the third 100-year-or-more type of flood in three years. Experts blame too many people, too much concrete, insufficient upstream storage, not enough green space for water drainage and, especially, too little regulation. "Houston is the most flood-prone city in the United States," said Rice University environmental engineering professor Phil Bedient. "No one is even a close second — not even New Orleans, because at least they have pumps there."

7
Days of heavy rain in some parts of Texas from Harvey, from August 25th through August 31st.

19
Harvey’s total rainfall concentrated over a 20,000-square-mile area represents nearly 19 times the daily discharge of the Mississippi River.

30
30 percent of Harris County, which includes Houston, is under water. That’s about 530 square miles.


49.76
Inches is the average yearly rainfall at Houston's Bush Intercontinental Airport. Harvey of course has dumped all of that in 1 week.

56
Hours it took for Harvey to strengthen from a tropical depression on Aug. 23 to a Category 4 hurricane prior to landfall two days later.

82
The number of Atlantic Basin tropical cyclone names retired from future use since 1954, when one is so deadly and/or destructive that a World Meteorological Organization committee deems its future use inappropriate. Harvey has been in use in the six-year rotation of Atlantic storm names since 1981.

130
Estimated maximum sustained winds of Hurricane Harvey at landfall near Rockport, Texas, on Aug. 25.

938
Minimum surface pressure of Hurricane Harvey, in millibars, at landfall. This tied for the 16th lowest pressure U.S. landfall on record, according to NOAA/AOML. It was also the strongest hurricane landfall, by pressure, in the U.S. since Rita in 2005. This pressure was lower than the last Category 3 Texas Coastal Bend landfalling hurricane, Celia in August 1970 (945 mb), which hammered Corpus Christi with wind gusts up to 161 mph, damaging almost 90 percent of the city's businesses and 70 percent of its residences.

1961
The last time a Category 4 hurricane made landfall in the Texas Coastal Bend.
Hurricane Carla in September 1961 produced catastrophic damage from storm surge and high winds in Port O'Connor and Palacios, Texas, among other locations.

2004
The last year there was a Category 4 U.S. hurricane landfall, Hurricane Charley, on Aug. 13, 2004. in southwest Florida.

3100
Approximate miles traveled by Harvey, or its remnant, since it first became a tropical storm east of Barbados on Aug. 17 until its final landfall along the Texas coast.

4323
Days since the last Category 3 or stronger hurricane made U.S. landfall, since Wilma plowed into South Florida on Oct. 24, 2005. This was a record-long such stretch, according to Colorado State University tropical scientist, Dr. Phil Klotzbach.


12,000,000
$12 million dollars as of Thursday evening that NFL All-Pro JJ Watt has raised for hurricane victims.

190,000,000,000
$190 billion. Estimated cost of damage to Texas from Hurricane Harvey

15,000,000,000,000
15 trillion plus gallons of water that is estimated to have fallen as rain on Texas from the storm

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Not sure if you saw my signature last week but I found out I had a long lost Aunt that just won the Powerball. After reminding her how important I was in her life, she decided to part with some of her winnings. I decided to buy this gem. I may have to invite her sometime.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Buff
Allowed To Wear White After Labor Day
World’s #1 Surf Forecaster


Thursday, August 24, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


So here we are.

SURF:


Not a whole lot going on the past week. We actually had a little more S than I expected last weekend (chest high vs. waist high) but not much after that. The weather hasn't cooperated either with this weird May Gray hanging around in August.


The surf this weekend won't be much better as we have a touch of tiny Hurricane Kenneth swell in the water, a little boost in NW windswell, and background new S groundswell. Add all that up and you get waist high waves again. At least the weather will be nice (more on that below).


Water temps are a little cooler than normal at 68 due to all the cloud cover (but should warm up mid-week with more sunshine) and tides the next few days are 1' at sunrise, up to 5' after lunch, and down again to 1' at sunset.

FORECAST:
The S groundswell mentioned above starts to creep up during the week but it's still not much. Look for chest high sets in far N county SD and the OC by Wednesday and peaks Thursday.


Models show a storm off Antarctica taking shape tomorrow and we hope to get a little shot of SW chest high swell next weekend. But until then, nothing exciting in the swell department. When we finally get a big storm on the charts, I think my head will explode from excitement. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:


June Gloom has made a mess of this month so far. So much for summer. As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of drizzle in August. Might as well live in Seattle. Luckily for us though models show high pressure setting up this weekend and we should have warm weather by Saturday- maybe in the mid-80's. A little monsoon moisture may get wrapped up in the high pressure and the mountains/deserts could get a stray thunderstorm too. For next week, forecast charts show the high sticking around and we may get warm weather through next weekend. I may need to turn on my sprinklers again! Never thought I'd hear myself say that in the middle of summer.

BEST BET:
Late next week with just a touch more small S groundswell and great weather.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


Judging by our weather lately, you wouldn’t believe the earth has been warmer than normal. July in particular this year was almost an all-time record breaker. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, earth’s warmest month is typically July, when the strong mid-summer sun heats up large Northern Hemisphere land masses and adjacent coastal areas. In fact, July 2017 was not only the warmest month of this year, but also the second warmest July on record, trailing the record set in 2016. Let’s have a look at NOAA’s analysis:

July 2017
The average global temperature in July was 1.49 degrees F above the 20th-century average of 60.4 degrees, according to scientists from NOAA’s National Centers for Environmental Information. This was the second-highest average temperature for July in the 138-year climate record, trailing last year. July 2017 marked the 41st consecutive July and the 391th consecutive month with temperatures at least nominally above the 20th-century average.

Year to date | January through July 2017
The year-to-date average temperature was 1.62 degrees F above the 20th-century average of 56.9 degrees. This was the second-warmest for this period, a quarter of a degree behind the record set in 2016.

Other notable climate events and facts around the world last month included:

• Record and near-record sea ice at the poles: The average Arctic sea ice extent (coverage) for July was 16.1 percent below the 1981-2010 average, the fifth smallest for the month since satellite records began in 1979. The average Antarctic sea ice extent was 4.5 percent below average, the smallest on record for July.

• Warmer-than-average lands and oceans: The globally averaged land-surface temperature (warmest for the month of July) and the sea-surface temperature (third warmest for July) ranked second highest on record for the year to date.

• Africa and Oceania led the continents in warmth rankings: Africa and Oceania had their warmest July on record; North America (tied with 2016) and Asia, had their 5th; South America, its seventh; and Europe, its 17th.

With all this record breaking weather, when are we going to get some record breaking surf around here?!

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Finally put a pool in for the kids but all they want to do is surf the wave in my backyard instead! What a waste of $100 grand.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Heartthrob
I Just Found Out I Have An Aunt That Won The Powerball!
Michael Glenn Poster Now Available At EPKcollection.com

Thursday, August 17, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


When I win the lottery, I'm getting a house in Newport for S swells and one in La Jolla for N swells.

SURF:


The past couple weeks has seen some fun surf in southern California- if you live in Orange County. Storms in Antarctica haven't been forming off New Zealand (optimal for SD) but rather off South America (optimal for the OC). So while we've been waist high+ down here, they've been head high+ up there.

That's the case again this weekend and new SSE swell fills in late Friday into Saturday for chest high sets in far N San Diego county and head high+ in far N Orange County. That swell lasts into Sunday morning and backs off early next week. So make sure to clear your schedule on Saturday- it's all we got.


Tides the next few days are 3' at sunrise, up to 4.5' mid-morning, down to 2' after lunch and up to 6' at sunset. Water temps have rebounded slightly now that the sun has come out again and we're back to the high 60's.

FORECAST:


After the new little SSE peters out on Monday, it's pretty quiet the rest of the week.


As our bad luck would have it, models show another storm forming off Chile/Peru (which is almost SE of us- not ideal) and we'll get more waist high+ surf next weekend in SD- while the OC again gets head high sets. Long story short, we're kind of in a rut down here in San Diego with no hope in sight. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:


Pretty mellow weather on tap for at least the next week. Cool sunny conditions are forecasted as a weak trough sets up shop this weekend and low clouds burn off by lunch. Early next week the trough exits but temperatures still stay in the low 70's at the beaches- but the sun should come out earlier. And none of that fun monsoon/tropical moisture in the foreseeable future.

BEST BET:
Saturday with nice cool weather and a little bit of SSE swell or more of the same next weekend!

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


We've never had a hurricane hit southern California (that we know of) but we've come close. Like Tropical Storm Doreen in 1977. 40 years ago this week, Doreen formed off Baja and came straight up the peninsula towards San Diego. Luckily for us, water temps were 68 degrees up here, so Doreen died before giving us a direct hit (she actually was a tropical depression 80 miles W of Encinitas when she died). But we still got walloped with it's leftovers. Doreen was only a category 1 storm with 75 mile per hour winds, but she moved parallel up the Baja California peninsula and took dead aim at southern California. By the time she got here, she was only a remnant low, which doesn't even make me get out of my chair in the winter time around here, but in the dry summer months, it's a different story…


In anticipation of the storm, the National Weather Service issued flash flood warnings for the Colorado River Valley area, and were extended into southern California, including Santa Barbara County, the mountains of San Diego County, Riverside County, and portions of the Mohave Desert. Heavy rainfall fell in southern California with an average of 2–4" of rain for a period of three days. Heavier precipitation was reported in the mountain areas, where rainfall peaked at 7.45" on Mount San Jacinto (remember- this is summer people). Several other locations reported heavy rainfall; 3.78" was reported in Calexico and up to an inch along the San Diego county coast (which would be impressive even for a wintertime storm).

In addition to heavy rain. Palm Springs reported wind gusts as high as 60 mph. As a result, trees toppled and power outages occurred. Highway 88 and 111 were under water from Brawley, near the Mexican border to the Salton Sea. California State Route 98 was also flooded from Brawly to Blythe. Two of four lanes on Interstate 15 were washed out from Los Angeles to Las Vegas, stranding thousands of gamblers in places like Barstow. Ocotillo, a town that was devastated during Hurricane Kathleen in 1976, was flooded again a year later from Doreen. Overall, damage totaled $25 million, mostly in agricultural losses in San Diego and Imperial Counties and eight deaths were reported. Nothing like this boring summer we’ve been having.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Cape Fear?! PUH-LEEEEAASE. More like Cape Fun. Piece of cake. Right now you can't see my hand shaking as I type this.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Esteemed
Actually Have A Tree That Grows Money
Just Like I Told The Guy On ABC, Danger Is My Business

Thursday, August 10, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Wave pools are starting to look pretty good right about now.

SURF:
A whole lot of nuthin’ out there.


This past week saw low clouds, mild air temps, even cooler water temps, and background SW/NW for waist high waves and chest high sets at the better combo spots. For this weekend it’s more of the same. We might have slightly better conditions at the beaches as monsoonal moisture moves in but our water temps are spotty at best (some areas are 70 degrees, others are 63, so beware) and we just have small waist high+ SW/NW combo swells again. No real storms recently = no real surf unfortunately.


Tides this weekend are 0’ at sunrise, up to 5’ around lunch, and down to 2’ at sunset.

FORECAST:
We have a couple blips on the radar but not much after that.


First up is a storm off South America that’s not ideally in our swell window (SW would be perfect; this storm is SSE) but we may get some chest high waves from it starting Monday and rolling into Wednesday. Luckily for us there’s a cold front up N that will add some NW windswell to the mix. Nothing big but the two swells may make some fun small chest high waves at the beach breaks the first part of next week. After that things go small on us again.


Then models show a hurricane taking shape which could give us shoulder high sets in the far N county towards the 3rd week of August with the OC going head high plus. Still a long ways off but it’s a sliver of hope. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:


As mentioned above, another surge of tropical moisture is headed our way for the weekend. No chance of rain at the coast but the mountains/deserts will get a drenching. A trough up N moves in early next week and the monsoon leaves the area and cooler/cloudier conditions prevail here at the beach. Temps should hang around the low to mid-70’s. A little cooler than usual for this time of year but still pleasant.

BEST BET:
The first part of next week with a little pulse of SSE groundswell and a touch of NW windswell. I know I’m grasping at straws here but it’s all we got!

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


We all know that wind creates waves (unless of course you’re an earthquake or a wave pool). But what exactly creates wind? You’re about to find out. And since school is about to start up again, I thought you wouldn’t mind a little getting a head start on your studying…

The energy that drives wind originates with the sun, which heats the Earth unevenly, creating warm spots and cool spots. Two simple examples of this are sea breezes and land breezes.

Sea breezes occur when inland areas heat up on sunny afternoons. That warms the air, causing it to rise. Cooler air rushes in from the ocean to take its place and presto, a wind is born. By late afternoon, a strong breeze can be blowing dozens of miles inland. A similar effect can occur near big lakes, where the wind is referred to as a lake breeze.

Land breezes come at night (i.e. early morning offshores), when inland temperatures drop enough that the ocean is now warmer than the land, reversing the effect.

Similar forces produce global wind patterns that affect climate. The tropics, for example, are always hot. Air rises here and spreads north and south, high above the land. Lower down, air is pulled in from the north and south. The ‘Coriolis Effect’, an offshoot of the Earth's rotation, makes moving air masses curve, so that the winds converging on the Equator come from the northeast in the Northern Hemisphere and the southeast in the Southern Hemisphere. These winds are called the trade winds (ever been to Hawaii?...).

Farther from the Equator, the surface winds try to blow toward the Poles, but the Coriolis Effect bends them the opposite direction, creating westerlies. This is why so many weather events in the United States come from the west.

At latitudes higher than about 60°, cold surface winds try to blow toward the Equator, but, like the trade winds, they are bent by the Coriolis Effect, producing polar easterlies.

Within the mid-latitudes, weather effects create high- and low-pressure zones, called highs and lows, respectively. Air moves from areas of high pressure to low pressure. As it moves, however, it spirals due to the Coriolis Effect, producing the shifting winds we experience from day to day, as highs and lows drift under the influence of the prevailing westerlies.


Winds reaching the center of a low-pressure area have nowhere to go but up. This causes moisture to condense into clouds, producing storms. At the center of high-pressure areas, dry air descends from above, producing fair weather.

On a smaller scale, colliding wind patterns can produce convergence, in which air also has nowhere to go but up. If one of the winds is a humid flow from a warm ocean such as the Gulf of Mexico, the result can be powerful thunderstorms and tornadoes.

So with all these facts about wind and their origins, let’s have a quick look at some records that wind has produced:

Fastest ever recorded: 302 mph, which actually wasn’t a sustained wind but rather a 3-second gust; observed by a DOW (Doppler On Wheels) radar unit in a tornado between Oklahoma City and Moore, Oklahoma on May 3rd, 1999.

Fastest recorded with an anemometer: 253 mph, another 3-second gust; this from one of five extreme gusts during a series of 5-min time periods; Barrow Island, Western Australia, on April 10th, 1996, during Cyclone Olivia.

Fastest recorded with an anemometer (outside a tropical cyclone): 231 mph, from a sustained 1-minute average; right here in the good ol’ USA at Mount Washington, New Hampshire,  April 12th, 1934.

And finally, the fastest daily average: 108 mph at Port Martin, Antarctica, in a 24-hour period from March 21st, 1951 to March 22nd, 1951. If it wasn’t cold enough down there, you also have to deal with the wind. Sounds like an awesome place to live.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


I’m looking to build a luxury resort here. Anyone have $100 million they can loan me? I’ll let you catch a wave or two.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
A Natural
1988 Scripps National Spelling Bee Champion
More Stoked Than Mason, Corky, Buran, and the Gudangs Combined

Thursday, August 3, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition



From feast to famine.

SURF:


That was a pretty good run of swell this past week. One of the better in recent memory I might say. Southern hemi swell, NW windswell, a little hurricane surf, throw in tropical weather along with water in the low 70's and it's as good as it gets. Today we have leftover Southern hemi swell for chest high sets in northern SD and head high sets in the OC (I should know- I've been watching the US Open all day). For the weekend we unfortunately don't have any significant swells in our sights; just small background S as well as a little touch of NW windswell. Look for chest high sets through Sunday.


Water temps though are still nice and in the low 70's and the tides next few days are 2' at sunrise, up to 4' mid-morning, down to 2' after lunch, and up to 6' at sunset.

FORECAST:


I'll make it quick: Next week isn't looking that good. In fact, it's looking pretty sad. Like when you show up to the beach and the water is 60 and you forgot your wetsuit kind of sad. Along with the low clouds returning, might as well write surfing off the next week. Our only hope is to have a hurricane flair up- which may happen since we're right in the middle of hurricane season- but until then it's time to break out your groveler. As far as I can tell, it may be waist high around here for the next 10-12 days. Yikes. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:


Along with the dying surf, our weather will become boring too. All the excitement the past few days from the tropical clouds overhead and thunderstorms in the mountains will give way to drying conditions this weekend. Look  for the low clouds to return in the nights/mornings and mild sunshine at the beaches by mid-day. Along with the small surf, the pleasant weather should remain for at least the next week. Not that I would ever wish for a hurricane but at least it would give us surf and some weather to talk about!

BEST BET:
Tomorrow. Fight for the scraps!

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


There are deadly waves all over the world. Teahupoo in Tahiti. The Wedge in Newport. Shipsterns in Tasmania. And of course the granddaddy of the all- the Banzai Pipeline. But the deadliest wave of them all? Tsunamis. Since we live in an active earthquake zone, here's some facts from National Geographic about tsunamis you should be familiar with:

When the ocean is deep, tsunamis can travel unnoticed on the surface at speeds up to 500 miles per hour, crossing the entire ocean in a day or less. Scientists are able to calculate arrival times of tsunamis in different parts of the world based on their knowledge of when the event that generated them occurred, water depths, and distances.

A tsunami may be less than a foot in height on the surface of the open ocean, which is why they are not noticed by sailors. But the powerful shock wave of energy travels rapidly through the ocean as fast as a commercial jet. Once a tsunami reaches shallow water near the coast it is slowed down. The top of the wave moves faster than the bottom, causing the sea to rise dramatically.

Geological features such as reefs, bays, river entrances, and undersea formations may dissipate the energy of a tsunami. In some places a tsunami may cause the sea to rise vertically only a few inches or feet. In other places tsunamis have been known to surge vertically as high as 100 feet. Most tsunamis cause the sea to rise no more than 10 feet .

Flooding can extend inland by a thousand feet (300 meters) or more. The enormous energy of a tsunami can lift giant boulders, flip vehicles, and demolish houses. Knowledge of the history of tsunamis in your area is a good indicator of what is likely to happen in a future tsunami event.

Tsunamis do not necessarily make their final approach to land as a series of giant breaking waves. They may be more like a very rapidly rising tide. This may be accompanied by much underwater turbulence, sucking people under and tossing heavy objects around. Entire beaches have been stripped away by tsunamis.

The Pacific is by far the most active tsunami zone, according to the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). But tsunamis have been generated in other bodies of water, including the Caribbean and Mediterranean Seas, and the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. North Atlantic tsunamis included the tsunami associated with the 1775 Lisbon earthquake that killed as many as 60,000 people in Portugal, Spain, and North Africa. This quake caused a tsunami as high as 23 feet in the Caribbean.


Tsunami Safety:

An earthquake is a natural tsunami warning. If you feel a strong quake do not stay in a place where you are exposed to a tsunami. If you hear of an earthquake be aware of the possibility of a tsunami and listen to the radio or television for additional information. Remember that an earthquake can trigger killer waves thousands of miles across the ocean many hours after the event generated a tsunami.

Witnesses have reported that an approaching tsunami is sometimes preceded by a noticeable fall or rise in the water level. If you see the ocean receding unusually rapidly or far it's a good sign that a big wave is on its way. Go to high ground immediately.

Many people were killed by the Indian Ocean tsunami because they went down to the beach to view the retreating ocean exposing the seafloor. Apparently they were unaware that this phenomenon precedes a killer wave. Experts believe that a receding ocean may give people as much as five minutes' warning to evacuate the area.

Because tsunamis can approach the shore as fast as 100 miles per hour it is often too late to get away if you see one. An approaching tsunami is not something to be admired unless you are safely on high ground.

Remember that a tsunami is a series of waves and that the first wave may not be the most dangerous. The danger from a tsunami can last for several hours after the arrival of the first wave. A tsunami wave train may come as a series of surges that are five minutes to an hour apart. The cycle may be marked by a repeated retreat and advance of the ocean. Stay out of danger until you hear it is safe.

A tsunami surge may be small at one point of the shore and large at another point a short distance away. Do not assume that because there is minimal sign of a tsunami in one place it will be like that everywhere else.

Tsunamis can travel up rivers and streams that lead to the ocean. Stay away from rivers and streams that lead to the ocean as you would stay away from the beach and ocean if there is a tsunami.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


If Willy Wonka made a wavepool, this is what it would look like. Full of color, warbled, and a barrel so big, you could fit 10 Oompa Loompas in it. Check out more of Josh Tabone's work on Instagram and Tumbler.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Knew I Was Clairvoyant Before I Was Clairvoyant
Pre-Ordered The Tesla Model 4
Only Surfer To Ever Score An 11 On A Single Wave