Friday, April 24, 2020

THE Surf Report


Sooner rather than later. 

SURF:
What up everyone! Either I'm in a good mood because the weather is awesome outside or I have cabin fever. Regardless, the water is REALLY warming up (more on that below), there's some tropical activity off Baja today (no, seriously), and we're most likely closer to the end of this beach ban than the beginning. So we got that going for us. Before you know it, we'll be back in the water, doing turns in trunks! Can't wait.  


As far as the surf goes, we had windy conditions early in the week from a passing cold front then clean fun conditions mid-week from a dying NW/SW. Still nothing big but it sure looked good with sunny skies and water temps hitting 68 in N County! So what's on tap this weekend? Great weather and not much surf. Sounds good to me since we're landlocked. We've got leftover S swell along W wind/groundswell this weekend. Best combo spots see chest high sets. And here's some numbers to mull over:

Tides and sun this weekend are:
  • Sunrise and sunset are:
    • 6:07 AM sunrise 
    • 7:26 PM sunset 
  • Water temps in N County today hit a peak of 68 due to the warm sun. A few feet below the surface it was most likely 64. But still...
  • And I was told that the tides are on hiatus until the beach ban is lifted 
FORECAST:


We've got a little bump from NW windswell on Monday/Tuesday (and leftover small S swell) for chest high surf and a touch more low clouds. The 2nd half of next week looks like waist high SW/NW and great weather again. 


Charts show some activity off Antarctica late next week which could give us fun chest high+ SW around the 7th. Is that the weekend when the beach ban will finally be lifted? Our best bet is to stay the course, #stayathome, and help flatten the curve so we can paddle out again. 


On a side note, there's a disturbance off Baja tonight. It most likely won't amount to much but it's a good sign so early in the hurricane season. 

WEATHER:


After spending a week indoors due to torrential downpours, Mother Nature instead is telling us to get outside and enjoy the sunshine. Temps in the high 70's yesterday will inch up slightly today and Saturday for near 80 at the beaches. We have a slight dip in temps Sunday/Monday (not really), then high pressure sets up shop again the 2nd half of next week for more temps near 80. Get outside this weekend, do some exercise, and be in shape for when it's time to rip. Don't want those arms feeling like jello! Make sure to check out Twitter/North County Surf if anything changes between now and then.
 
NEWS OF THE WEEK:


The thing that gives us joy (the ocean that is, not Hostess Fruit Pies)- where did it come from or how was it formed exactly? We know that the stork brings babies, money grows on trees (or maybe I have that wrong), and hot dogs come from... well, we don't know exactly. But the point is, did some divine being turn on their hose a billion years ago and fill up our planet like it was a galactic pool? That would be the simple answer. The real answer (which is my best guess since we weren't at the beginning of Earth's formation), is that water remained a gas until the Earth cooled below 212 degrees Fahrenheit. At this time, about 3.8 billion years ago, the water condensed into rain which filled the basins that are now our oceans. Most scientists agree that the atmosphere and the oceans accumulated gradually over millions and millions of years with the continual 'degassing' of the Earth's interior. According to this theory, the ocean formed from the escape of water vapor and other gases from the molten rocks of the Earth to the atmosphere surrounding the cooling planet. After the Earth's surface had cooled to a temperature below the boiling point of water, rain began to fall—and continued to fall for centuries (kind of like last week's rains). As the water drained into the great hollows in the Earth's surface, the primeval ocean came into existence (and the first surfer paddled out at Lowers around that time). The forces of gravity prevented the water from leaving the planet.

Astronomers long contended that icy comets and asteroids delivered the water for them during an epoch of heavy bombardment that ended about 3.9 billion years ago. But a study at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Cambridge the past decade suggested that Earth supplied its own water, leaching it from the rocks that formed the planet as mentioned above. The finding may help explain why life on Earth appeared so early, and it may indicate that other rocky worlds are also awash in vast seas. Here's what MIT had to say:

Our planet has always harbored water. The rubble that coalesced to form Earth contained trace amounts—tens to hundreds of parts per million—of the stuff. But scientists didn't believe that was enough to create today's oceans, and thus they looked to alien origins for our water supply. Geologist Linda Elkins-Tanton of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Cambridge didn't think researchers needed to look that far.

To make her case, she conducted a chemical and physical analysis of Earth's library of meteorites—a useful analogue for the building blocks of our planet. She then plugged the data into a computer simulation of early Earth-like planets. Her models show that a large percentage of the water in the molten rock would quickly form a steam atmosphere before cooling and condensing into an ocean. The process would take tens of millions of years, meaning that oceans were sloshing around on Earth by as early as 4.4 billion years ago. Even the scant amount of water in the mantle, which is much drier than the sand in the Sahara, should produce oceans hundreds of meters deep, Elkins-Tanton reports in an upcoming paper in Astrophysics and Space Science.


Astrobiologists have been continually surprised by how quickly life evolved on Earth—within 600 million years after the planet's formation, or about 3.9 billion years ago. Elkins-Tanton's findings may help explain why. "If water oceans were present shortly after the impact that formed the moon [some 4.45 billion years ago]," says Dirk Schulze-Makuch, an astrobiologist at Washington State University, Pullman, "much more time would be available for the evolution of life, and it would explain why life was already relatively complex when we find the first traces of it in the rock record."

Pin Chen, a planetary scientist at NASA's Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena, California, says Elkins-Tanton presents a compelling scientific story that oceans form very early in the history of a terrestrial-type planet. Chen notes that the work also supports the suggestion that early Mars had a wetter climate than it does today and thus might have supported life. So, too, might a number of Earth-like planets that astronomers are just beginning to discover, says Schulze-Makuch.
Even so, Max Bernstein, an astrochemist at NASA Headquarters in Washington, D.C., notes that Elkins-Tanton's models don't include the possibility that the huge asteroid and comet impacts prevalent during the formation of our solar system boiled off the water. "Just because there was an ocean early on," he says, "doesn't mean that it stuck around long enough for life." Elkins-Tanton counters that even a huge impact would not cause Earth-like planets to lose more than half of their oceans.

BEST OF THE BLOG:

 

Hope you've been enjoying Boardz N The Hood the past couple weeks and have been motivated to dust off those old relics and reminisce (your surfboards that is- not grandma and grandpa). I've posted a few more episodes since we spoke last- from amping groms to outdoor enthusiasts to artists in AND out of the ocean- these surfers cover the gamut. If you have time this weekend (and I know you fellow Quarantinians do), check out stories 1 through 7. Or just peruse the boards you find interesting. Who knows, you might find something new you want to ride and fire up the stoke again. Check them out below and look for new episodes every few days until the beach ban is lifted! 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


As soon as the quarantine is lifted, this is the first place I'm going. After Pacific Coast Grill. 

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Exhilarating
I Blame Solar Flares For Messing With My Moral Compass
The Quarantine Has Made Me Surfbored

Thursday, April 23, 2020

Boardz N The Hood- Episode 7: Chip Of The Old Block


Great weather this week has got me all fired up for summer! And as we help flatten the curve, I've got another episode of Boardz N The Hood to get you amped for the boardshort and barrel season. Today I bring you Eric Fagan and his son Wyatt. Eric is all about getting outside. An avid surfer the past 38 years who's traveled the around the world for surf, Eric has also found time to climb our National Parks when the waves are flat. And if enjoying the great outdoors wasn't enough in his free time, he's also found a way to do it while working. Eric has worked at Prana, Rinse Kit, Igloo, Rvca, and I'm guessing he was a Park Ranger and a Lifeguard too. Who knows. What I do know is that his son Wyatt is a chip off the old block. Loves the outdoors, has a quiver of his own surfboards at a young age, and when it comes to climbing- he's learning from the best. They're just as anxious as us to start exploring beyond our neighborhood again, so without further hesitation, here's today's Boardz N The Hood, brought to you by Eric and Wyatt Fagan.


Eric Fagan bio:
  • Age: 46 (verified)
  • Height: 5'11"
  • Weight: 175 lbs
  • Years surfing: 38
  • Favorite spot: Nicaragua or Samoa
  • Favorite board: JS Blackbox 3

Quiver:
  • 5'7" Firewire Rob Machado Go Fish




  • 5'10" WRV Pat Mulhern Swallow Tail



  • 5'10" JS Blackbox 3


  • 5'10" WRV Pat Mulhern Squash Tail



  • 6'8" John Roman Step Up




Enough about Eric's boards. Let's hear about the future. Here's what they had to say about Wyatt's quiver:

Wyatt Fagan bio:
  • Age: 7
  • Height: 4'4"
  • Weight: 68 lbs
  • Years surfing: 2
  • Favorite spot: Beacons
  • Favorite board: 5'0" Catch Surf Beater

Quiver:


  • 5'0" Catch Surf Beater

  • 5'5" Channel Islands Zeus

  • 9'0" Wavestorm



Thanks to Eric and Wyatt (and the rest of my neighbors) for being part of Boardz N The Hood. If you're looking for some positive news, water temps were in the high 60's today at our beaches, there's some tropical activity off Baja, and we're probably closer to the end of this beach ban than we are to the beginning of it. So hang in there! You'll be out there ripping in trunks in no time. Make sure to check back every few days for more Boardz N The Hood! 






Monday, April 20, 2020

Boardz N The Hood- Episode 6: Think Different


Today's episode of Boardz N The Hood is all about creativity. Tom Curren thankfully broke us out of the 6'2" x 18 1/2" x 2/14" shortboard stagnation by riding a 5'7" Fireball Fish in macking Indo back in the mid-90's. From that point on it was open season: The crew at ...Lost riding riding 5'5" x 19 1/4" boards at Waimea shorebreak to Jamie O'Brien doing step offs on Costco Wavestorms at Pipe to Chippa Wilson and Dane Reynolds riding modified bodyboards. Doesn't matter what the size, shape, age, etc of the board is- if it's funky, then paddle out. My neighbor Tait Hawes embodies that philosophy. With a diverse quiver, everyday is a good day. He doesn't care if it's blown out, big, crowded, cold, sharky (ok- he probably cares that it's sharky), but you get the point. He's got the right board for the right condition. But that's who Tait is. He's creative. So much so that his choice of boards seem to follow his choice in a career- art director at Capitol Records to art director at Vans to  creative director at Reef. Wonder why Apple has been at the forefront all these years? That's right- Think Different.

Tait now has a couple boys of his own and they're starting to follow in his footsteps- creative, surfers, and positive attitudes. Here's more on Tait and his oldest boy Walker:


Tait Hawes bio:

  • Age: 45
  • Height: 5'8"
  • Weight: 150 lbs
  • Years surfing: 36
  • Favorite spot: Any right, anywhere
  • Favorite board: 5'8" Chingadera

Quiver:
  • 4'4" Softech Rocket



  • 5'4" Larry Mabile Twinzer




  • 5'8" Eric Christenson Groveler



  • 6'2" Grain x Vans Collab



  • 5'8" Eric Christenson Rounded Pin



  • 6'4" Superbrand Step Up


  • 5'8" 80's Twin Fin Garage Sale Special



  • 6'7" Haut Single Fin




  • 9'0" Wavestorm





  • 9'6" Gordon & Smith Longboard



And here's Walker's quiver. At only 8 years old, he's already got 3 boards ready to go once the beach ban is lifted. Here's what he had to say about each one:



Walker Hawes bio:

  • Age: 8
  • Height: 4'8"
  • Weight: 56 lbs
  • Years surfing: 4
  • Favorite spot: Cardiff Reef
  • Favorite board: 5'0" INT

Quiver:

  • 4'4" Softech Rocket

  • 4'10" Superbrand Toy

  • 5'0" INT



Special thanks to Tait, Walker, and the rest of the 'hood for sharing their boards with me and the rest of the world during the quarantine. The end of the ban is in sight but before then, I've got a few more special episodes of Boardz N The Hood to share in the coming week. Make sure to check back every few days and hang in there!