Thursday, July 27, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Wonder what Hilary has been up to?

SURF:
Doesn't matter who you voted for this past November, you have to applaud that she was a category 2 hurricane this week. But before we delve into politics, let's reflect on the week that was.


Not much surf the past few days but we did have tropical clouds, off and on fog, and warm water. Today we have a little bump from the SSW again for waist high surf in north county. The early low tides and cloudy conditions don't make it look that appealing. Friday starts off small again but fear not- we're just getting started.


Hurricane Hilary and Irwin are doing a 1-2 combo to the S of us and sat in our swell window earlier this week. Both storms weren't that big but they were in a good spot to send us surf. Look for chest high sets late Friday and head high sets Saturday.


By Sunday we have a smaller reinforcing SW ground swell to keep us in head high waves and overhead in the OC. Should be a fun weekend of surf- if you can survive the crowds. Water temps are 75 but we've had some WNW wind lately so be careful of cold spots!


Tides the next few days are 0' at sunrise, up to 4.5' after lunch, and down to 2' at sunset.

FORECAST:
Hilary/Irwin and southern hemi swell peak on Monday with head high sets in north county and well overhead as you move towards the OC.


Both hurricane swells start to drop by Tuesday but we get another shot of southern hemi swell towards Wednesday for head high waves again. After that it's pretty quiet- unless the hurricane door opens again. So next weekend may be on the small side unfortunately. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

WEATHER:


Got a combo weather pattern today- low clouds may stick around at the coast while tropical clouds float high above. Weak high pressure moves in tomorrow for a little more sunshine by Sunday and then a surge of tropical clouds moves in again Monday. Beach temps will hang around the mid-70's for most of the next 7 days. Models then show a greater surge of tropical moisture by Tuesday and we may actually get a stray shower at the coast. If that happens- and the surf is good- beware of lightening strikes! Tropical moisture may hang around most of next week but the chance of lightening should be over by Thursday.

BEST BET:
Lots of S swell from Hilary, Irwin, and southern hemi swell Sunday through Wednesday. Add in some warm water and tropical clouds and you have an excuse to blow off work!

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


Last week I talked about the slight chance El Nino could return this fall/winter. But what about the long term prospects for El Nino? As the earth’s temperature continues to rise ever so slightly (due to man-made greenhouse gas emissions OR natural variations through time- pick your poison), new research suggests that extreme El Niño events — which can cause intense rainfall, flooding and other severe weather events in certain parts of the world — will occur more and more often as long as the temperature keep rising. And even if global climate were to stabilize at a 2.7 degree threshold, studies conclude, these events will continue to increase in frequency for up to another 100 years afterward. I’ll let the the findings from the journal of Nature Climate Change explain:

“It was really a surprise that what we find is after we reach 2.7 degrees  and stabilize world temperatures, the frequency of extreme El Niño continued to increase for another century,” said Wenju Cai, a chief research scientist at Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization and one of the study’s lead authors. “We were expecting that the risk would stabilize.”

The study builds on a 2014 paper, also published in Nature Climate Change by Cai and a group of colleagues, which first suggested that extreme El Niño events will increase with global warming. That paper focused on a business-as-usual climate trajectory, in which greenhouse gas emissions remain at high levels into the future, Cai noted. It found that under this scenario, the frequency of extreme El Niño events would double from their preindustrial levels within this century.

The 2014 paper produced mixed responses among scientists at the time. Some experts, including Kevin Trenberth of the National Center for Atmospheric Research, suggested the models they used may not accurately simulate the behavior of El Niño.


Nevertheless, after the Paris climate agreement was finalized, and the 2.7 degree temperature goal was established, the researchers were interested in revisiting their previous work. This time, they specifically investigated the way El Niño would be affected if the world actually managed to stay within this climate threshold, a target that many scientists believe is already close to slipping through our fingers. Recent research has suggested that we’re on track to overshoot this climate goal within the next few decades.

During a typical El Niño event, Cai said, parts of the central and eastern tropical Pacific Ocean become warmer than usual, causing changes in wind patterns and rainfall in certain places around the world. Often, the consequences include warming over the western Americas and increased rainfall in the tropical Pacific. During an “extreme” El Niño event, these warming patterns tend to be shifted even further toward the east and the equator, forming a zone near the coast of Ecuador where intense amounts of heat transfer between the ocean and the atmosphere. The results tend to include even more intense rainfall in the region than usual, sometimes up to 10 times the typical amount, Cai said.

The researchers used a collection of 13 climate models to simulate a scenario in which global carbon dioxide emissions peak around the year 2040 and then decline, a trajectory that would keep the world within the 2.7 degree threshold. They then took note of how frequently these extreme events occurred in the simulations.

The models suggested that by the time we hit the 2.7 degree mark, the frequency of extreme El Niño will have doubled from its preindustrial level of about five events every 100 years to about 10. This increase will occur steadily over time, the researchers note, meaning that any additional increase in carbon dioxide in the future will lead to an increased risk of an extreme event.

This effect does increase slightly under stronger climate scenarios — the researchers report that under a 3.6 degree climate threshold, the increase in frequency is a bit stronger. But overall, each scenario produces approximately double the preindustrial frequency during this century, even if the effect is a bit larger under more severe trajectories. This is in keeping with the 2014 research, which suggests that under a business-as-usual climate scenario, the frequency of extreme El Niño events will also approximately double before the end of the century.


But the consequences won’t stop when we reach 2.7 degrees. The study suggests that the frequency of extreme El Niño events will continue to increase (although at a slower rate) even after global temperatures stabilize, potentially for up to another 100 years. These findings are less firm, since not all the models are capable of projecting beyond the end of the century. But several of them indicate that by the year 2150, the frequency will have grown to about 14 events per 100 years.

The researchers noted that the same results did not hold true for La Niña events, which often produce the opposite effects of El Niño. While previous research has suggested that more intense warming scenarios may lead to more frequent La Niña events as well, the milder climate trajectory in this study did not produce any significant changes.

Trenberth, who was not involved with the research, still has concerns about the models used in the research, which he says are “the same flawed models used before.” He argues that the models do a poor job of capturing some of the impacts of El Niño events — even “regular” ones — and the way they’re influenced by temperature and moisture in the atmosphere.

But Cai says he believes the study’s results are “believable” and that there are mechanisms to explain them. Because of the influence of climate change, the eastern equatorial Pacific is warming quickly, he said. As a result, it’s becoming easier for the critical centers of convection, or heat exchange, which affect global weather patterns, to move from west to east across the Pacific as they do during El Niño events.

The timing of El Niño events in the future will depend on factors including natural climate variations and weather patterns. Scientists are still working on figuring out better ways to predict El Niño before it hits, but for the time being, it’s often difficult to see it coming too far in advance. But over the course of a century, the study suggests we’ll see more of them as the climate continues to warm — and even after it stabilizes — even if we don’t know exactly when they’ll be coming.

In conclusion, if you like flooding, downed powerlines, and 100’ surf at Cortes Bank, then expect to see a lot more of that through this century.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Travel half way around the world, hike a mile from your parked car to the cliff, scale down the slippery path, and paddle out through the boulders. Worth it? Darn tootin' it is.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Leader of the Free World
Filling In For Biebs
Slater Said I'm His Favorite Surfer

Thursday, July 20, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Time to gather my wits.

SURF:
Couldn't get any better the past few days.


Fun hurricane surf along with southern hemi swell, tropical clouds overhead, and water temps in the mid-70's (Scripps Pier was 77 yesterday. That's Hawaiian style). Today we had peaking SW groundswell with background hurricane swell compliments of Fernanda. Fernanda was a big storm with winds in the 150 mph range but unfortunately moved due W to Hawaii. We still got a glancing blow with head high waves in the OC and chest high waves down here. For tomorrow into the weekend, we have leftover SW for chest high waves tomorrow and shoulder high sets towards the OC. Saturday drops another foot and by Sunday we're waist high. Long story short, warm water this weekend, great weather, and not much surf.


Tides the next few days are about 1' at sunrise, up to 4' mid-morning, down to 1' mid-afternoon, and up to 7' at sunset.

FORECAST:
Good time to get back to work on Monday as no surf is in sight.


Not much action last week will give us week conditions up here Monday through Thursday.


We do have a lot of hurricane activity off Baja but they are all headed W to Hawaii and none of them are forecasted to be a doozy like Fernanda so we won't get any surf from them (yet). Hopefully the models are wrong and 1 or 2 of them head slightly NW towards us and shoots a little S hurricane swell next week.


In the long term, forecast charts show the southern hemi starting to get it's act together this weekend in which we'd see chest high sets around Thursday the 27th. The storm though unfortunately might be due S of us, so we'll only get a glancing blow. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:


More seasonal weather for the foreseeable future. Night and morning low clouds, sunny skies in the afternoon, and temps in the mid to high 70's. What can I say? Pretty darn perfect around here. Only activity around in Southern California is a chance of thunderstorms in the mountains/deserts this weekend and dry next week.

BEST BET:
Tomorrow with leftovers or late next week with new small SW.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


As you know, once spring had sprung this year, forecast models hinted that El Nino may be making a comeback. Just before summer hit, the waters cooled down in the equatorial eastern Pacific and the hype train slowed to a crawl. Since then the water temps have been slightly above average (we’ve even seen that at our local beaches) and hurricanes are forming now on a regular occurrence off Baja. So what’s the latest? The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration reported last week that the latest El Nino forecast is holding steady and favoring El Nino neutral conditions (50-55% chance) into the winter of 2017-18 (so basically a slightly above average chance). Although not favored, El Niño development has an elevated chance of occurring (~35-45%) relative to the long-term average (~25-35%), so we still need to keep our eyes on this possibility.

The ocean temperatures in the eastern equatorial Pacific have remained nearly steady over the past three months. The temperature in June was about 0.4°C (0.7°F) above the long-term average. In fact, this persistent warmth means that the latest three-month average (April–June) temperature has reached 0.5°C above the long-term average, which is one condition necessary to declare El Niño. This is the first time we’ve hit this threshold since April–June of last year. Does that mean El Niño has awoken from its yearlong slumber? Let’s not get ahead of ourselves…

El Niño is a seasonal phenomenon, so forecasters require that the temperatures persist above the 0.5°C threshold for at least five consecutive three-month seasons. Therefore, forecasters have to decide if there is sufficient reason to expect these elevated temperatures to continue.

One factor that limits forecasters’ confidence in the persistence of El Niño conditions is the current state of the atmosphere. The El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO) is a coupled phenomenon that requires cooperation between the atmosphere and ocean to develop. Over the past month, the atmosphere really has not resembled anything that we would expect in a typical El Niño. In particular, we have seen enhanced cloudiness and rainfall near Indonesia instead of the International Date Line, which directly contradicts the pattern of cloudiness and rainfall that is associated with El Niño. This general atmospheric pattern has been quite stubborn, holding fairly steady throughout the calendar year thus far. Returning to the idea of ENSO as a coupled phenomenon, right now it’s as if the ocean is trying to get the atmosphere’s attention, but the atmosphere is just not that interested.


Just because the atmosphere seems disinterested in the ocean’s signals now doesn’t mean that the two cannot get on the same page and bring about a full-fledged El Niño in the months ahead. In addition to the analysis of the recent evolution of the atmosphere and ocean, forecasters rely on a variety of dynamical and statistical forecast models for guidance. The most recent model forecasts indicate a high probability that the sea surface temperature in the eastern equatorial Pacific will remain at least slightly above average through winter of 2017-18. In addition, the average of the dynamical forecasts in the North American Multi-Model Ensemble falls just below the 0.5°C threshold for El Niño, which is a very slight forecast uptick relative to last month.

These forecasts, however, indicate that only a minority of models forecast full-blown El Niño development (and very few suggest the opposite La Niña development). Given that neither the forecast models nor the current state of ocean/atmosphere coupling seems too enthusiastic about El Niño or La Niña development in the near future, the forecast is sticking with the continuation of ENSO-neutral conditions.

Despite the ENSO-neutral forecast lean, we still have a fair number of models forecasting at least a weak El Niño through the upcoming winter. Therefore, forecasters certainly are not ruling out the development of El Niño; in fact, they are calling for an elevated chance, relative to average, of El Niño onset. Specifically, El Niño typically occurs about 25-35% of the time, depending on the specific month, but forecasters predict the chances have risen to about 35-45% for the upcoming fall and winter. These forecast probabilities, however, are not high enough for the CPC to issue an El Niño Watch.

So what does that mean for us? Well, a slight chance of an El Nino is better than no El Nino. And currently our waters are warm which will help hurricane development and the chance of boardshorts into October. And if the warm waters continue to hold ever slow slightly into winter, that means 3/2 fullsuits instead of 4/3’s, a slight chance of enhanced rainfall, and maybe storms that are slightly bigger for swell production. All good in my book.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


A-frame awesomeness. All beach breaks should have it this good.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Like A Boss
Dressing Up as Aquaman for Comic Con
Grease The Bottom Of My Board To Tailslide Easier

Thursday, July 13, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Make it stop.

SURF:
Lots of surf, sunshine, and warm water makes me tired. My arms are like noodles. It's a good problem to have I guess. Enough about me though.


Fun surf the past few days from a S groundswell and a S hurricane swell compliments of Eugene gave most areas around town shoulder high waves, head high in north county, and well overhead in the OC. Both swells peaked today and for Friday we just have leftover S groundswell for chest high sets- with head high waves in the OC still. Saturday is slightly smaller and by Sunday we just have waist high+ S swell. Water temps if you haven't noticed have been in the mid-70's the past few days but a bout of WNW wind today may drop it slightly this weekend to the high 60's. Still pleasant regardless.


Tides the next few days are 1' at sunrise, up to 4' mid-afternoon, and down to 2' at sunset.

FORECAST:
Once the small surf runs it's course this weekend, we have a couple more S and SW swells lined up for next week thankfully.


Monday morning starts off in the waist high range and then by the afternoon we see a couple bumps from the S. By Tuesday we have chest high+ surf.


Wednesday a new SW swell fills in and we're back to shoulder high sets. That lasts into Friday morning. Next weekend and the 3rd week of July look pretty small unless a hurricane decides to form. Speaking of hurricanes, Fernanda is churning in-between Baja and Hawaii tonight and unfortunately moving due W towards Hawaii- so we won't see any real surf from it. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

WEATHER:


Pleasant weather this past week- low clouds/fog in the mornings, burning off around 10 AM, followed by sun and temps in the mid to high 70's. Along with the water temps in the low 70's, trunks is all you need (contrary to The Beatles who said Love Is All You Need- I disagree). Look for more of the same next week. Summer is in full swing. Take advantage of it!

BEST BET:
Tomorrow with leftover S swell or next Wednesday/Thursday with good SW swell.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


All the Great White sightings off our coast has made me a little uneasy this year. Good news is that now we might know why they're here. Bad news is that they may be here to stay. Kind of like the tourists from Arizona coming to visit for the summer and not going home. Yikes. SFGATE reported this week that researchers with the California State Long Beach Shark Lab have discovered several hotspots for shark activity off the Southern California coast, areas that they're calling "nurseries" for young great whites. Oh great.

Juvenile great white sharks congregate near Ventura, Oxnard, Santa Monica Bay, Huntington Beach and Dana Point in the summer months, before their annual migration south for the winter, according to the Ventura County Star.

Chris Lowe, a professor of marine biology at CSU Long Beach and director of the school's shark lab, started tagging juvenile sharks about 10 years ago and found that many of them would return back to the same handful of hot spots year after year. These areas may be safer for the young great whites, as they are sheltered from predators and have an abundance of easy prey.

"The sharks that we tag tend to hang out mainly at those hot spot areas during their first few summers," he told the Star.

When the sharks return to Southern California, they don't always go back to the same hotspot, the newspaper reports. Lowe and his team are continuing their research and working to find out why the juvenile sharks return to the areas they do.

Shark sightings — and attacks — have been on the rise in recent months. The city of Santa Cruz instituted a four-day ban on entering a three-mile stretch of water Tuesday after a great white shark attacked a kayaker.

Lowe told SFGATE in May that the rise in shark sightings can be attributed in part to increased environmental protections. Populations of other marine animals, like otters and sea lions, have been thriving, which has given sharks more prey to feed on. That could in turn be contributing to a growth in the shark population.

For those worried about shark attacks, Lowe reminds people that the ocean is sharks' natural home. "We have unfettered access to the ocean," he said. "Humans have forgotten how to share habitats with wild animals, and they have to be re-educated."

So to re-cap: Basically don't surf anywhere in the following counties: Ventura, LA, and Orange unless you want to have a meeting with the men in the grey suits.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


The delicious coast. Or as the locals call it- Costa Rica.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Dignitary
How A Pirate Looks At 40-ish
Keep Snapping My Fins From My Powerful Bottom Turns

Thursday, July 6, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Summer the way it was meant to be.

SURF:


Pretty great weather the past few days. Fog has finally cleared out, water has warmed up, and we've had just enough small waves to keep things rideable. For this weekend, things just get better. Friday starts off slow with a little bump from NW windswell to give us waist high waves around town and a touch of old S swell.


Saturday we have new S fill in for shoulder high sets while the NW holds on. Conditions stay perfect with water temps in the low 70's and plenty of sunshine. Sunday stays the same. All in a all, a great weekend to live in southern California.


Tides the next few days are 1' at sunrise, up to 4' mid-morning, down to 2' mid afternoon, and up to 6' at sunset.

FORECAST:
Surf drops slightly on Monday/Tuesday to the chest high range but still looks fun.


New S starts to show on Wednesday afternoon for head high sets (bigger towards the OC) and that holds into Friday. Models even show a hurricane forming next week which may give us chest high sets (head high in the OC) around the 15th. It still hasn't formed of course but bares watching. Looks like we're set for some fun waves until at least next Friday. After that, forecast charts don't show much from the southern hemisphere so get it while you can. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

WEATHER:


If you liked today's weather, it will only get better. High pressure will strengthen slightly for less low clouds in the AM and warmer temps at the beaches- most likely 80 degrees. There should also be some tropical clouds floating overhead and a stray thunderstorm in the deserts/mountains. That weather pattern lasts through early next week then we cool off slightly through next Friday- but still close to perfect around here.

BEST BET:
Saturday/Sunday looks pretty darn fun with new S & NW swells, warm water, and sunny skies. Next Thursday looks good too with slightly cooler conditions but bigger S swell.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


With all the bad news coming from the ocean lately (sharks in the OC, rising sea levels, and potential Antarctica ice shelf collapse), I'm glad to hear some good news finally. The open-access journal PLOS ONE from the University of California Santa Barbara reported this week that the global ocean health has remained relatively stable over the past five years.

The Ocean Health Index has been used to assess ocean health on the local and regional scale, measuring factors such as biodiversity, coastal protection, and clean waters to help inform regional policies. In this study, data was analyzed for five years' worth of Ocean Health for 220 countries, seeking potential drivers and implications for the changes that they observed.

As expected, global ocean health has been fairly stable over the past five years, since the health of the world's oceans cannot change rapidly over a relatively short time period. However, there were notable changes in individual countries. For example, the authors found declines in overall ocean health in many Arctic and sub-Arctic countries, possibly because the rapid loss of sea ice has resulted in reduced coastal protection. The researchers suggest that improvements in wild-caught fishery management, the creation of marine protected areas, and decreases in harvesting of fish and other natural products may have stabilized ocean health scores in other regions.

The 2016 study assessed the marine waters under national jurisdiction, the coastlines and oceans (out to 200 nautical miles) of all 220 coastal countries and territories. These regions total 40% of the ocean and provide most benefits to people, but also incur most pressures from human activities. The Antarctica and 15 sectors of the High Seas were assessed in 2014, but not this year.

The overall score, 71 is unchanged from 2015, 2014 and 2012, with a temporary one point rise in 2013. The overall score sends a message that the ocean isn’t ‘dying’ as many people may think. However, the score remains far from a perfect 100, indicating that marine life would fare better and we would gain more benefits if we used the ocean in more sustainable ways.


Regional scores ranged from 44 (Libya and Sierra Leone) to 91 (Howland Island and Baker Island). The USA had an overall score of 70. Five of the highest scoring regions are: Howland Island and Baker Island (91), Jarvis Island (90), South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands (88), Palmyra Atoll (85), Germany (85).

In total, twenty-one (21) regions scored 80 or above, many of which are remote islands with few or no human inhabitants showing that despite the Ocean Health Index’s emphasis on benefits to people, relatively pristine locations can still score very high. Germany (85) and Australia (80) were the only regions with populations exceeding one million to score 80 or above. Both of these are countries with stable and effective governance, good environmental management and attention to social well-being.

Five of the lowest scoring regions are: Democratic Republic of the Congo (47); Guinea (45) and Ivory Coast (45); Libya (44) and Sierra Leone (44).    

In total, thirteen (13) regions scored 50 or below, and 11 of these are in Africa, one in Central America and one in the Middle East. Regions that are poor and have a recent history of conflict, dictatorship or other challenges generally score poorly.


While the Ocean Health Index was capable of predicting short term changes in global ocean health, the authors suggest that investment in additional resources for measuring changes on a global scale would greatly help with management and protection of ocean health now and in the future.

"One of the things that's so powerful about the Ocean Health Index is that it allows you to compare the health of oceans any place on the planet, over time, with a directly comparable measure," says author Benjamin Halpern. "You can ask some of the most basic yet most important questions about the state of our planet: how are the oceans doing, and what factors are driving changes in ocean health. We can finally start answering those questions."

For the complete report, visit here. 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Iceberg doomed the Titanic? Fake news. This is the real reason the world's most luxurious liner went down. That fishing boat is next.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Gung Ho
Hanging With Robin Leach This Weekend
Last Person To Surf Killer Dana