THE Surf Report- Early Edition

I win.

SURF:
I thought that if I kept predicting sunshine, it would eventually happen. Well you know what? I win. We have sun this weekend. And then some. More on that below in the WEATHER section. First up, let's talk about how the surf was the past few days.

It's been a mixed bag lately. Lots of NW windswell early in the week and clearing skies. Today we had amazing beach weather and small but fun combo swell for chest high surf.

For Friday, the SW peaks and the NW windswell hangs around for more chest high surf and great weather. BEWARE the patchy fog though! Should dissipate by mid-morning though so you know what that means: Sun's Out Fun's Out!  (or Sun's Out Gun's Out or Sun's Out Bun's Out, take your pick). The combo swell fades over the weekend for waist high surf and the occasional chest high set towards the OC. Won't matter though- warm air temps + sun = water temps near 70 this weekend (and Scripps Pier hit 72 today!) so it will be worth it to just paddle out regardless.

Tides the next few days are 2' at sunrise, down to 0' mid-morning, up to 4' late afternoon, and down to 3' at sunset. And in case you're wondering, the sun is now coming up at 5:30 AM and setting at 8 PM. That's 14 1/2 hours to surf!  Or if you're surfing in British Columbia, sun's coming up at 5 AM and setting at 9:30 PM. That means you can work late, have dinner with the family, get the kids to bed around 8... AND STILL GO FOR A SURF. Nuts.

FORECAST:

Not much happening to start the work week- except great beach weather again- and we finally get some SW filling in Tuesday for shoulder high sets. That rolls into Wednesday and tapers off slightly but a smaller chest high reinforcement shows on Thursday.

After that we get a breather and more chest high+ SW should arrive around the 28th. All the while we have pulses of smaller background waist high NW windswell. And great weather most of the week. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves & weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:

As mentioned above, we have a heat wave people. High pressure in the SW U.S. is going to cook the deserts and especially Death Valley where it's forecasted to hit over 125 degrees. Now I don't know about you, but anything over 100 is unbearable. And 125? Well, there's a reason they call it Death Valley. For us at the coast though, patchy fog and mild ocean temps will help moderate our air temps in the mid-70's along the shore and mid-80's a couple miles inland. Valleys will hit 90+. Long story short- don't go inland this weekend and make sure to keep a cold one close by. Temps should start to get back to normal by next weekend.

BEST BET:
Tomorrow with peaking chest high SW/NW or next Tuesday afternoon/Wednesday morning with new shoulder high SW and a peaking heat wave.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

Thought it was time for a quick refresher course on waves. So here goes: Waves involve the transport of energy without the transport of matter. In short, a wave can be described as a disturbance that travels through a medium, transporting energy from one location (its source) to another location without transporting matter. In our case, ocean waves. I'll let NOAA take it from here:

The ocean is never still. Whether observing from the beach or a boat, we expect to see waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in a circular motion. However, water does not actually travel in waves. Waves transmit energy, not water, across the ocean and if not obstructed by anything, they have the potential to travel across an entire ocean basin.

Waves are most commonly caused by wind. Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual disturbance creates a wave crest. These types of waves are found globally across the open ocean and along the coast.

More potentially hazardous waves can be caused by severe weather, like a hurricane. The strong winds and pressure from this type of severe storm causes storm surge, a series of long waves that are created far from shore in deeper water and intensify as they move closer to land. Other hazardous waves can be caused by underwater disturbances that displace large amounts of water quickly such as earthquakes, landslides, or volcanic eruptions. These very long waves are called tsunamis. Storm surge and tsunamis are not the types of waves you imagine crashing down on the shore. These waves roll upon the shore like a massive sea level rise and can reach far distances inland.

The gravitational pull of the sun and moon on the earth also causes waves. These waves are tides or, in other words, tidal waves. It is a common misconception that a tidal wave is also a tsunami. The cause of tsunamis are not related to tide information at all but can occur in any tidal state.

In summary, waves transmit energy, not water, and are commonly caused by the wind as it blows across the ocean, lakes, and rivers. Waves caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun are called tides. The ebb and flow of waves and tides are the life force of our world ocean- and the center of my life!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

I was just thinking about the Golden State Warriors. Ever notice where pros go to blow off steam once they win a championship? Big yacht in the Bahamas. White sand beaches in the Greek Isles. Hang out with Yeezy in Vegas. Not me. If I just won the title (again), I'd undwind here. Make sure to check out more of photographer Andrew Shields' work here.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Always Giving 111%
Tired of TMZ Following Me Around
Wore Mirage Boardshorts While I Surfed A Secret Spot With The Invisible Man