Thursday, May 19, 2022

THE Surf Report

 

I Could Get Used To This. 

SURF:


Been a pleasant week as far as the waves & weather goes. Not too big, not too small, not glassy, not windy, not hot, not cold. Just right. Wouldn't have surprised me to see Goldilocks out in the lineup. For the weekend, we have a weak front moving by to the N and as it does- you guessed it- a little more wind around here and stubborn low clouds. 


We will though have a continuation of the S swell for chest high surf in northern SD and head high waves in the OC- just look for suspect conditions tomorrow and Saturday with the May Gray. And here's the tides, sun, and water temps for the next few days:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 5:46 AM sunrise 
    • 7:46 PM sunset 
    • 14 hours of surfing anyone?
  • Our strong NW winds subsided this week and the water temps rebounded accordingly. Most spots in SD are 63-65 while the OC sits at 60-63.
  • And we've got low tides in the AM and high tides in the PM this weekend:
    • 1' at sunrise
    • -0.5' mid-morning
    • almost 4' late afternoon
    • and down to 2.5' at sunset
FORECAST:

Work week starts off a little slow with leftover S swell for waist high surf then we get another fun chest high SSW on Wednesday with bigger sets in the OC. 


Models show a good string of storms forming off New Zealand the middle of next week which should give us head high+ SW at the end of the month. If the forecast is correct, we could see 3-5 good days of swell. I could get used to this. 

WEATHER:

May Gray really hasn't kicked in yet and we're already 3 weeks into the month. Jinx! Looks like we'll have a cloudy/cool weekend but it will be short lived. High pressure should return by mid-week and we're back to sunny skies and temps in the mid-70's. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on Twitter!

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


You may have noticed the past couple of weeks that San Diego County had a slight red tide condition in our line ups. I say slight because it was nothing like the spring of 2020 where it lasted for weeks on end and turned the water brown it was so dark. Luckily for us, it looks like our current red tide condition is on its way out. While not a serious threat to most, I've heard some surfers get a sinus infection from it. But what exactly is the red tide and what causes it? Here's the pros at the Scripps Institute of Oceanography to, ahem, clear things up: 

Bioluminescence expert Michael Latz, a scientist at Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego, said the red tide is due to aggregations of the dinoflagellate Lingulodinium polyedra, a species well known for its bioluminescent displays. Each microscopic cell contains some “sunscreen,” giving it a reddish-brown color. On sunny days, the organisms swim toward the surface where they concentrate, resulting in the intensified coloration of the water—and the reason for the term "red tide." At night, when the phytoplankton are agitated by waves or other movement in the water, they emit a dazzling neon blue glow during strong red tide conditions- like in 2020.

Red tides are unpredictable and not all of them produce bioluminescence. There is no red tide monitoring program, but the Southern California Coastal Ocean Observing System (SCCOOS) at Scripps Oceanography performs weekly sampling for potential harmful algal toxins. The Scripps Shore Stations Program also collects daily water samples and performs plankton analysis twice a week.

Latz said that local red tides of L. polyedra have been known since the early 1900s due to observations by Scripps scientists. There are several Scripps scientists sampling the current red tide to learn more about the genetic and metabolic characteristics of the organisms.

Scientists do not know how long red tides will last, as previous events have lasted anywhere from one week to a month or more. Bioluminescent displays are viewed best from a dark beach at least two hours after sunset, though visibility is not guaranteed.  Below, Latz answers some frequently asked questions about the red tide.

RED TIDE Q&A WITH SCRIPPS SCIENTIST MICHAEL LATZ:

Why is the ocean brown?
There is a bloom of the dinoflagellate Lingulodinium polyedra, which is a common member of the plankton community in Southern California. Each cell of this microscopic organism is only 35 µm in diameter. So there are lots of them out there, discoloring the water hence the term red tide.

How large are red tides?
The bloom in 2020 stretched from Baja California to Los Angeles, so it was large in size. Sometimes they are more local. Anyone remember the huge 1995 red tide?

How long do they last?
Our local red tides can last for days (e.g., May 2018), one to two weeks (Sept. 2013, June 2019), or one or more months (Oct. 2011 and 1995). There is no way to predict how long they will last. While some phytoplankton blooms are stimulated by nutrient runoff, those of Lingulodinium polyedra are associated with relaxed upwelling and stratified water column conditions.

Is the water safe for surfing/swimming?
In some areas such as the Mediterranean, Lingulodinium polyedra produces yessotoxin, a compound that acts as a neurotoxin, but local populations do not produce yessotoxin. However, some people are sensitive to inhaling air associated with the red tide, so the organisms must be producing other compounds that can affect human health. In general during a red tide there is lots of dissolved and particulate matter in the water with associated enhanced microbial activity. It is personal choice whether to go in the water, but there is no public health warning associated with the red tide.


Is the red tide bioluminescent?
Yes! Dinoflagellates use bioluminescence as a predator avoidance behavior. 

Is the frequency of these red tide events increasing?
Globally, red tide events are increasing in frequency. Locally, there may be more frequent events since the 1960s. More research is needed to understand the factors that lead to red tides.

When will the next red tide occur?
Forecast tools are in development but we can't yet predict when red tides will occur and how long they will last. Researchers at Scripps Oceanography and elsewhere are tracking and sampling the events so that we can better understand their dynamics.

On that note, from what I've seen in the past, they tend to happen when we get strong NW winds in the spring (which create upwelling and brings nutrients to the surface). If we get a heat wave directly after the upwelling, the organisms swim toward the surface where they concentrate, resulting in the intensified coloration of the water (as mentioned above). So even though there is no way to predict when red tides will happen, my guess is to keep an eye out in the spring if we get strong NW winds AND a heat wave shortly thereafter. 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


There's so much going on in this photo I don't know where to start. But of course I'll take a stab at it:
  • That island is pretty cool looking.
  • That island is also making the swells wrap around it and the result is crossed up peaks. 
  • Look at all those peaks! 
  • At the right side of the photo, you can see the lines coming in at an angle- almost looks like a point.
  • Did I mention warm, tropical water?
  • And it's empty, clean, and sunny. 
  • Anything I missed? Right answers only. 
Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Supervisor
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