Had some surf on Monday from a combination of NW/SW swells but a weak cold front moved through and blew out the surf. This morning the weather cleaned up but the swells dropped slightly. Most spots around town were waist high with chest high sets towards the OC.
With all that NW wind on Monday, water temps dropped from 61 to 59. Bummer. Tides the next few days are about 1' at sunrise, down to 0' mid-morning, up to 4' at 5pm, and down to 3' at sunset. Those low tide overcast mornings with small surf look kind of uninspiring.
For tomorrow and Thursday, both swells back off but high pressure builds slightly for nice weather.
On Friday high pressure starts to breakdown as a weak front moves by to our north. Look for temps to drop to the low to mid-60's and more extensive low clouds and fog. By Monday of next week, a storm off the Aleutians is poised to take aim at us and we may get some showers out of it.
That same storm that may give us showers on Monday will also kick up some groundswell as well as windswell off our coast on Friday evening. By Saturday we should have some shoulder high sets around here from the NW. As the storm gets closer, we may get some overhead waves from it by Monday. The chart above shows some 15' NW swell in our outer waters which is hard to believe this late in the season but it bares watching.
But I'm getting ahead of myself! Late Thursday we should see some fun SW swell arrive for shoulder high sets around town and by Friday some head high waves. The OC will have some overhead sets. Hopefully that NW swell advertised above will arrive too for some peaky conditions at the beaches. After that, the southern hemisphere is taking a breather and we won't have much SW swell for next week. There's a storm shown on the chart above that may form towards Friday but it's mainly headed due W (not aimed N at us) and it will be too far under us. Long story short- we should have some fun SW/NW swells on Friday and bigger NW swell on Monday- if the showers don't make a mess of it around here.
