Thursday, September 12, 2019

THE Surf Report- Early Edition



Welcome fall!

SURF:


Good surf this past week- except for an early season fall-like low pressure system and it's associated S winds. But things cleaned up today as high pressure built and the SW surf slowly subsided. For the weekend, the lack of real storms in the Pacific last week means small SW/NW for us the next few days.


We had a little disturbance in the Southern Hemisphere a few days ago though which will give us a little boost by Sunday. Look for chest high sets in far N county SD and the OC. We also have a small boost of NW wind/groundswell on Sunday as yet another low pressure system makes it way through the west coast. All in all some small surf on Friday/Saturday with nice conditions and slightly bigger on Sunday with more wind and cooler conditions. And our water temps are still in the low 70's!

And here's additional info to help you with your next surf session:


Tides this weekend are:
  • 2' at sunrise 
  • 5' late morning
  • 1' late afternoon
  •  3' at sunset
And here's the sunrise and sunset:
  • 6:30 AM sunrise  
  • 7:00 PM sunset  
FORECAST:
Still not much happening in the southern hemisphere but models show the north Pacific coming to life and maybe some hurricane activity off Baja/Mexico next week.


First up is small waist high+ NW windswell on Monday, followed by a chance of small chest high hurricane S on Tuesday/Wednesday (better in the OC) from Tropical Storm Kiko. Kiko unfortunately may only hit minimal hurricane status over the weekend. Behind that is another shot of waist to chest high NW windswell and then the models get interesting.


Looks like a fun storm off Antarctica this weekend which may give us shoulder high sets from the SW around the 20th.


Then a 2nd hurricane is on the charts which could be solid (take it with a grain of salt since it hasn't formed yet) but we could see shoulder high sets in north SD county (and bigger in the OC) around the 23rd along with more NW. If anything changes between now and then though (I'm talking to you hurricanes), make sure to check out Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:


Southern California weather is some of the most diverse in the world. In the winter, we'll have a couple days of windy, cold rain, and then on it's heels- a Santa Ana condition with temps in the 90's, plenty of sun, and low humidities. This past week had a little of everything too: awesome beach weather, then thunderstorms at the coast, then a couple early fall low pressure systems (I know it's only a week away from fall- but still- I'm trying to hold onto summer) rolled through with windy, cool conditions (and a dusting of snow in Utah). So are we back on track with great September weather this weekend? Not exactly. High pressure set up shop today for sunny skies and warm temps and that will last into Saturday. Then yet another early low pressure system rolls through on Sunday/Monday for more wind, cool conditions, and lingering clouds. High pressure should set up behind that and late next week we're back to sunny skies and warm temps!    

BEST BET:
Next Tuesday/Wednesday with MAYBE small but fun hurricane swell and NW windswell. OR... better SW swell around the 20th and hurricane S on the 23rd?

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


This is the time of the year when we transition from summer to fall. Call it 'locals summer' or 'Indian summer' or even the dreaded 'fire weather' season. Whatever you call it, be prepared for 'Santa Ana winds'. Over the years I've spoken about the pros and cons of the winds (Pros- it cleans up our surf. Cons- that whole wildfire thing) and I thought it may be a good time to go into detail again. Here's what our friends at Accuweather had to say:

Santa Ana winds are high-speed and dangerous winds that periodically kick up and blow from the mountains to the coast in Southern California.

These northeasterly winds blow from the coast ranges to the beaches as areas of strong high pressure build across the interior West. The phenomenon typically peaks in October but can occur anytime from late to early spring.


The wind speed can be magnified as air tries to squeeze over mountain passes and rush downhill through the canyons that are aligned in a northeast to southwest direction. As the air descends in elevation, it becomes compressed and heats up and dries out even more.

Moderate Santa Ana winds can often break tree limbs, send unsecured debris flying into windows, raise clouds of dust and cause wildfires to ignite and spread rapidly.

In addition to a heightened risk of wildfires, whole trees and high-profile vehicles can be knocked over, and sporadic power outages are likely in more extreme cases.

When winds aloft become aligned from the same direction as that of the winds near the surface, the strongest gusts occur. Sometimes wind gusts can reach the force of a hurricane (74 mph or greater). Gusts during this particular setup can lead to extensive property damage and widespread power outages.


Most Santa Ana events peak for a 12- to 24-hour period, then the winds ease," according to AccuWeather Senior Meteorologist Ken Clark. "However, on rare occasions, strong winds can persist for a few days.”
While a wildfire can break out in absence of a Santa Ana, it is during these long-lasting events, that multiple and extensive wildfires can result. The most notorious Santa Ana winds can bring exceptionally hot weather. Under these circumstances, the risk of wildfire ignition and spread is the greatest. Temperatures can surge past 100 degrees Fahrenheit near the coast, even during the autumn, winter and spring months.

When the air gets this hot, it also become extremely dry. When brush is also very dry, as is often the case, the wildfire potential becomes extreme and people must be extremely careful with any open flames, including from burning cigarettes and outdoor power equipment that may lead to sparks.

Sometimes cool or cold air is associated with a Santa Ana. While such an event results in a lower fire risk when compared to a warm Santa Ana, there is still a significant risk of wildfire ignition. This is because the air is often still very dry and strong wind gusts can quickly cause any small fire that breaks out to rapidly spread.
In the wake of a chilly Santa Ana during the late fall, winter and early spring, a frost or freeze can occur in the normally cold spots, where the sky remains clear and breezes subside.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Winter's coming. Are you ready? Put that apple fritter down from Leucadia Donuts and get to the gym asap!

Keep Surfing, 

Michael W. Glenn
Mistak Free
Was Fired From Hostess For Stealing
Stopped Doing Contests Because I Ran Out Of Space For My Trophies