Why Don't We Take The Ol' EBS Out For A Spin?
SURF:
Fun surf this past week- and semi-clean conditions today- was met with COLD spring time water temps. If you don't mind wearing a 4/3, then you probably had fun.
For tonight into Friday, look for a weak cold front to move through the area and whip up the winds as well as head high+ NW windswell and messy conditions. For Saturday morning, conditions clean up and we're left with head high NW wind/groundswell in the AM and breezy chest high sets in the afternoon. SD will be overhead.
For Sunday, weather looks great and we've got waist high+ NW in the AM (bigger in SD) with building waist high SW in the PM (bigger in the OC). And here's the tides, sun, and water temps for the next few days:
- Sunrise and sunset:
- 6:09 AM sunrise
- 7:25 PM sunset
- and in case you were wondering, Tofino, the popular British Columbia surf town, on June 20th (longest day of the year), sunrise is at 5:18 AM and sunset is 9:32 PM. Imagine paddling out before 5 AM or rinsing off around 10 PM? Crazy.
- The wind earlier in the week dropped our water temps to the high 50's! We should see it stay the same or drop slightly from the wind again on Friday but rise slightly earlier in the week with the mild heat wave.
- And here's the tides this weekend:
- 3' at sunrise
- -0.5' late morning
- and back up to 4' at sunset
FORECAST:
Both hemispheres have been active the past 10 days and that's good news for us. So let's just turn on the ol' Emergency Boardriding System, shall we? The small SW that was building on Sunday evening will show better on Monday for chest high surf in N County SD and better sets in the OC.
We also have more chest high NW showing in N County SD and head high sets in SD. Most everywhere will have fun combo swell.
Then more SW shows on Tuesday for shoulder high sets in northern SD and head high+ in the OC.
Late in the week, we see yet again more chest high NW/SW.
And charts show more NW/SW again in early May?! Good news all the way around.
WEATHER:
April showers bring May flowers (and one less day to run the sprinklers). A quick moving cold front will swing through tonight and give us around 1/10" of rain and gusty winds. For Friday afternoon, look for partly sunny skies and breezy conditions. Saturday sees sunny skies and pleasant temps- then Monday/Tuesday warms up to 80 at the beaches. For the 2nd half of next week, temps lower and low clouds return for normal spring weather. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on Twitter!
BEST BET:
- Saturday morning with good NW
- Most of next week with good NW/SW combo
NEWS OF THE WEEK:
If you've taken a hard wipeout on a big day (who hasn't), then you know how powerful waves can be. And during the winter of 2013-2014, the UK and Ireland were buffeted by a number of unusually powerful storms, causing widespread floods, landslides, and coastal evacuations. But the impact of the storm season stretched far beyond its effect on urban areas, as a new study in Earth-Science Reviews details. Here's what they had to say:
Geoscientists from Williams College in Massachusetts found that the storms had an enormous influence on the remote, uninhabited coast of western Ireland—one that shows the sheer power of ocean waves in a whole new light.
The rugged terrain of Ireland’s western coast includes gigantic ocean boulders located just off a coastline protected by high, steep cliffs. These massive rocks can weigh hundreds of tons, but a strong-enough wave can dislodge them, hurling them out of the ocean entirely. In some cases, these boulders are now located more than 950 feet inland. Though previous research has hypothesized that it often takes tsunami-strength waves to move such heavy rocks onto land, this study finds that the severe storms of the 2013-2014 season were more than capable.
Studying boulder deposits in Ireland’s County Mayo and County Clare, the Williams College team recorded two massive boulders—one weighing around 680 tons and one weighing about 520 tons (that's roughly 1 million pounds EACH)—moving significantly during that winter, shifting more than 11 and 13 feet, respectively. That may not sound like a significant distance at first glance, but for some perspective, consider that a blue whale weighs about 150 tons. The larger of these two boulders weighs more than four blue whales.
Smaller boulders (relatively speaking) traveled much farther. The biggest boulder movement they observed was more than 310 feet—for a boulder that weighed more than 44 tons (88,000 pounds)!
These boulder deposits "represent the inland transfer of extraordinary wave energies," the researchers write. "[Because they] record the highest energy coastal processes, they are key elements in trying to model and forecast interactions between waves and coasts." Those models are becoming more important as climate change increases the frequency and severity of storms.
So the next time you take a few sets on the head and you tell your friends you got pounded out there, now you're know just how much.
Geoscientists from Williams College in Massachusetts found that the storms had an enormous influence on the remote, uninhabited coast of western Ireland—one that shows the sheer power of ocean waves in a whole new light.
The rugged terrain of Ireland’s western coast includes gigantic ocean boulders located just off a coastline protected by high, steep cliffs. These massive rocks can weigh hundreds of tons, but a strong-enough wave can dislodge them, hurling them out of the ocean entirely. In some cases, these boulders are now located more than 950 feet inland. Though previous research has hypothesized that it often takes tsunami-strength waves to move such heavy rocks onto land, this study finds that the severe storms of the 2013-2014 season were more than capable.
Studying boulder deposits in Ireland’s County Mayo and County Clare, the Williams College team recorded two massive boulders—one weighing around 680 tons and one weighing about 520 tons (that's roughly 1 million pounds EACH)—moving significantly during that winter, shifting more than 11 and 13 feet, respectively. That may not sound like a significant distance at first glance, but for some perspective, consider that a blue whale weighs about 150 tons. The larger of these two boulders weighs more than four blue whales.
Smaller boulders (relatively speaking) traveled much farther. The biggest boulder movement they observed was more than 310 feet—for a boulder that weighed more than 44 tons (88,000 pounds)!
These boulder deposits "represent the inland transfer of extraordinary wave energies," the researchers write. "[Because they] record the highest energy coastal processes, they are key elements in trying to model and forecast interactions between waves and coasts." Those models are becoming more important as climate change increases the frequency and severity of storms.
So the next time you take a few sets on the head and you tell your friends you got pounded out there, now you're know just how much.
PIC OF THE WEEK:
The reason I play the lottery. Anyone have 5 bucks I can borrow?
Keep Surfing,
Michael W. Glenn
Brainiac
King of America
Taking A Boat Trip To Bali! Sorry, Read That Wrong- Taking A Bike Ride To Beacons...
Michael W. Glenn
Brainiac
King of America
Taking A Boat Trip To Bali! Sorry, Read That Wrong- Taking A Bike Ride To Beacons...
