Thursday, July 3, 2014
THE Surf Report- Early Addition. Again.
God Bless Antarctica.
SURF:
Had a late season W swell earlier in the week and combined with some lingering SW swell, there were some fun head high sets around town. Both swells have since backed off and in it's place today is some small tropical storm Douglas S swell and a touch of tiny NW windswell for waist high+ waves in north county SD and shoulder high sets in far N OC as it's picking up the steep S swell from Douglas better.
As we roll into tomorrow, we get a continuation of the Douglas S swell and a pick up slightly in the NW windswell late in the day.
We also get the start of a new S swell from Antarctica that flared up about a week ago. It was pretty solid but unfortunately just outside out swell window. We should though see head high waves on Saturday with overhead sets in the OC. Not a bad 4th of July weekend. We even get some 'tropical' clouds too (more on that below). Sunday the swell and great weather holds. Water temps are fantastic- but you knew that already since they've been at least 70 for a month now- with temps in La Jolla today reading 73 and here in north county 72.
Tides the next few days are 2' at sunrise, 1' at breakfast, up to 4.5' late afternoon, and down to 3' at sunset. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves/weather at Twitter/North County Surf.
FORECAST:
The good S swell will linger into Monday morning and the rest of next week looks pretty bad. No storms = no surf.
Models show a little SW swell trying to form off New Zealand in a few days that may give us chest high waves around the 12th. So until then, enjoy the 4th!
WEATHER:
Not a big fan of May Gray or June Gloom (which we had this past week- the clouds had a hard time burning off at the beaches). But that's all about to change tonight as high pressure builds over the Four Corner states. The low clouds/fog will get squashed at the coast and we'll have abundant sun and temps in the mid-high 70's. The monsoonal thunderstorms are also brewing in the desert SW today and a couple waves of clouds will come our way this weekend. The first may give us 'tropical' weather tomorrow with scattered high clouds and increased humidities (think Hawaii without the expensive airfare). The 2nd wave only makes it as far as our local mountains in the form of some big puffy clouds (along with thunder and lightning). That lasts through Monday. High pressure slightly weakens towards the middle of next week for temps in the low to mid-70's and a few more night/morning clouds/fog. Summer looks to be right on track.
BEST BET:
Was there really any doubt? Late Friday through early Sunday with great weather, solid S swell, a touch of NW windswell, and water temps in the low 70's. Fireworks all the way around!
NEWS OF THE WEEK:
Just in time for the 4th of July weekend, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) thought it was a good time to scare the pants off everyone with their 'Beach Dangers' story. You know, things like Tsunami's, Shorebreak poundings, and Sharks. No story though on angry locals. If you want a good fright, have a gander at the following 'Public Service Announcement'...
RIP CURRENTS
Rip currents account for more than 80 percent of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards. They are powerful, channeled currents of water flowing away from shore that quickly pull swimmers out to sea. Rip currents typically extend from the shoreline, through the surf zone, and past the line of breaking waves. The best way to stay safe is to recognize the danger of rip currents. If caught in one, don't fight it! Swim parallel to the shore and swim back to land at an angle. Always remember to swim at beaches with lifeguards.
SHOREBREAK
A shorebreak is an ocean condition when waves break directly on the shore. Both small and high waves can be equally as unpredictable and dangerous and typically form when there is a rapid transition from deep to shallow water. The power of a shorebreak can cause injuries to extremities and the cervical spine. Spinal cord injuries most often occur when diving headfirst into the water or being tumbled in the waves by the force of the waves. Be sure to ask a lifeguard about the wave conditions before going into the water.
LIGHTNING
Since 2006, an average of 33 people have been killed annually by lightning in the United States. Already in 2014, seven people have died due to lightning strikes. There is no safe place outside when thunderstorms are in the area. When thunder roars, go indoors! The safest places during lightning activity are substantial buildings and hard-topped vehicles. Rain shelters, small sheds, and open vehicles are not safe. Wait 30 minutes after the last thunder crack before going back to the beach.
TSUNAMIS
A tsunami is a series of ocean waves generated by any rapid large-scale disturbance of the sea water. Most are generated by earthquakes, but may also be caused by volcanic eruptions, landslides, undersea slumps, or meteor impacts. The tsunami wave may come gently ashore or may increase in height to become a fast moving wall of turbulent water several meters high. Although we can’t prevent them, the effects can be reduced through preparedness, timely warnings, and effective response.
SHARKS
Shark attacks, though rare, are most likely to occur near shore, typically inshore of a sandbar or between sandbars, where sharks can become trapped by low tide, and near steep drop offs where shark’s prey gather. The relative risk of a shark attack is very small but should always be minimized whenever possible. To reduce your risk don’t swim too far from shore, stay in groups, avoid being in the water during darkness or twilight, don’t go in the water if bleeding from a wound, leave the shiny jewelry at home, and avoid brightly-colored swimwear.
JELLYFISH
Keep an eye out for jellyfish. All jellyfish sting, but not all have venom that hurts humans. Of the 2,000 species of jellyfish, only about 70 seriously harm or may occasionally kill people. When on the beach, take note of jellyfish warning signs. Be careful around jellies washed up on the sand as some still sting if their tentacles are wet. Tentacles torn off a jellyfish can sting, too. If you are stung, don't rinse with water, which could release more poison. Lifeguards usually give first aid for stings. See a doctor if you have an allergic reaction.
HEAT
Too much heat and sun can spoil a vacation. Heat is the leading weather-related killer in the United States, causing more deaths than floods, lightning, tornados, and hurricanes combined. Heat disorder symptoms include sunburn, heat cramps, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke. Spending the day at the beach can lead to any of these disorders but the most visible is sunburn, which can take up to 24 hours before the full damage is visible. When a burn is severe, accompanied by a headache, chills, or a fever, seek medical help right away.
RED TIDES
Harmful Algal Blooms (HABs) (popularly referred to as red tides) are dense populations or "blooms" of algae that form in coastal waters. A small percentage of these blooms can be toxic to marine animals and humans. People can get sick by swimming directly in the water and by eating contaminated shellfish. If a sufficient amount of toxins are ingested, the results can be fatal. Scientists can forecast the timing and location of blooms. This allows coastal managers and public health officials to make decisions regarding shellfish harvesting and beach closures to ensure the health of both residents and visitors.
WATER QUALITY
Coastal beaches are among the most treasured natural resources in the nation, but beach closures or advisories caused by poor water quality often prevent the public from enjoying these resources. As water flows from land to coastal waters, it is often contaminated by untreated sewage from boats, pets, failing septic systems, fertilizers, and spills from hazardous substances. High levels of bacteria and other chemicals in the water can cause gastrointestinal illnesses in those that swim directly in the water. When visiting the beach, be aware of all beach closures and advisories.
MARINE DEBRIS
Our oceans are filled with items that do not belong there. Huge amounts of consumer plastics, metals, rubber, paper, textiles, derelict fishing gear, vessels, and other lost or discarded items enter the marine environment every day, making marine debris one of the most widespread pollution problems facing the world's oceans and waterways. Often this debris, or litter, ends up on our beaches damaging habitats, harming wildlife, and making it unsafe for beach goers to walk along the shoreline and swim in the water.
PIC OF THE WEEK:
What's the most iconic American surf spot? Pipeline? Malibu? Windansea? My vote is the Wedge. Hard to argue when the 'American' Corp of Engineers built the spot (inadvertently of course- but still- it's good ol' fashioned American ingenuity). And isn't America a melting pot? The Wedge is too- it's two swells meeting up to make one of the best- and freakish- waves in America- or even the world for that matter. For more great shots of America, check out Rob Gilley's work on Surfer Mag's website. Happy 4th everyone!
Keep Surfing,
Michael W. Glenn
Mr. Nice Guy
Uncle Sam's Uncle
Leasing The 'California Kid' Nickname From Joey