THE Surf Report- Early Edition

Don't pinch me if I'm dreaming.

SURF:
This may be the best October EVER. We've had non-stop swells from the NW, fantastic weather, AND the water is hovering in the low 70's. No wetsuits yet and it's almost Election Day. What politician is going to take credit for this?!

We had plenty of NW earlier this week and it's winding down tonight but there still are shoulder high waves and clean conditions. Tomorrow through Saturday we have leftover chest high sets with maybe an odd shoulder high wave in SD from the NW with background smaller SW, but the good news is... there's more NW coming.

A weak cold front unfortunately is forecasted to pass through Sunday so as our waves increase later in the day, we may have some cloudy/breezy conditions. So look for head high+ waves late Sunday with overhead sets in SD and slightly bumpy conditions.

Tides the next few days are 4' at sunrise, up top 6' at 10am, and down to 0.5' before sunset. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves/weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

FORECAST:
If you don't get any of the new NW on Sunday, we'll still have NW rolling through town on Monday. Look for more head high waves here with overheads sets in SD. After that things calm down and Tuesday has some chest high waves and Wednesday looks small.

Of interesting note is former Hurricane Ana from Hawaii. She's forecasted to turn extra-tropical (i.e. into a low pressure system in the Aleutians) and we may get some chest high waves from it towards Thursday- with SD getting shoulder high waves.

Charts also showed little bumps off Antarctica a few days ago and we should get background SW the middle of next week too. Nothing much for SD but the OC may get waist high+ waves the 2nd half of next week.

Models also show the southern hemisphere coming to life late next week and we may get more SW swell around the 3rd of November.

WEATHER:

No rain yet. Mother Nature is making me look like a fool. I've always seen some sort of showers by the middle of October and this year- ZILCH. Tomorrow is another nice day with mostly sunny skies and temps in the high 70's at the beaches. Saturday is a transition day as temps drop to the mid-70's and the low clouds/fog start to roll in. Then models show a weak cold front coming through on Sunday for mostly cloudy conditions and a shot at... drizzle. An interesting weather fact is that our ocean is warmer than normal due to the so-called El Nino, so even though we have a weak cold front coming through on Sunday- air temps will still be in the low 70's. Brrrrr! Time to put away the tank top and throw on a t-shirt! High pressure then sets up early next week and we're back to sunny skies and temps in the mid-70's. Models then show another weak cold front coming through late next weekend so we'll keep our fingers crossed the showers may finally arrive November 1st.

BEST BET:
Sunday afternoon may be junky but we'll have plenty of NW swell. Or smaller but cleaner NW/SW next Thursday.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

This is awesome. Seems as though there’s been this massive sink hole a few hundred yards inland on Kauai for thousands of years or something like that. Scientists recently decided to go sifting around through all the junk in the bottom of it. Expecting to find terrestrial items like dirt, volcanic rock, plants, and bugs, they also find coral, shells, and beach sand (remind you this is hundreds of yards inland). Seems as though a big ol’ tsunami 350-575 years ago washed inland and the sink hole acted like into one big drain! Classic! Here’s what NBC News reported earlier this week:

“A massive earthquake strikes Alaska’s Aleutian Chain, spawning a 30-foot-high tsunami that blasts onto Hawaii’s shore and fills a huge sinkhole with debris. Researchers sift through it 500 years later, find evidence of the catastrophe and urge authorities to redraw evacuation maps to prepare for such a disaster. That’s the thrust of a new study, reported in Geophysical Research Letters, that examined deposits in Kauai’s Makauwahi sinkhole.

The researchers, led by Rhett Butler, a geophysicist at the University of Hawaii at Manoa, found evidence that a 9.25 magnitude earthquake in the Aleutians between 350 and 575 years ago caused a tsunami that carried large amounts of marine debris — coral, shells, beach sand — 100 meters inland and into the sinkhole. The researchers said that Japan's 2011 earthquake and tsunami show the danger in relying on modern observations in disaster planning, and they said their model for what would occur in a similar Aleutian quake today far exceeded all tsunamis recorded in Hawaii in the past 200 years. They called for upgrading NOAA tsunami warning buoys to allow more time for evacuation orders. Gerald Fryer, a geophysicist at the Pacific Tsunami Warning Center in Hawaii who wasn't involved with the study, told the American Geophysical Union that he’s convinced it's correct and has worked with Honolulu authorities to update evacuation maps by the end of the year.”
 
PIC OF THE WEEK:

Never been to Central America but this is more than enough reason to cash in the ol' nest egg and head south of the border.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Outstanding
Found Kim Jung-un
Spelled ‘Kanaiaupuni’ To Win ’78 Sunset Beach Elementary School Spelling Bee