Thursday, September 28, 2017

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Our drought may be over.

SURF:
And I’m not talking about Carlsbad’s desalination plant either. I’m talking about our crummy surf! Been pretty dismal around here but it looks like things are starting to shape up.

 
We need to get through a few more small days though. First up is some background waist high sets from the NW/SW on Friday that will increase slightly towards Sunday for chest high sets. Nothing too exciting yet but patience is a virtue.

 
Water temps are high 60’s and tides this weekend are pretty mellow: 3’ at sunrise, down to 2’ at lunch, and up to 4’ at sunset.

FORECAST:
 
Ok- here’s the good news. Finally. A couple weak storms up N will send chest high NW swell to us Monday and Tuesday.

 
THEN… a solid late season storm off Antarctica today will send us head high sets from the SW next Thursday/Friday. Yes! Something to talk about!

After that, more storms are forecasted in the northern and southern hemispheres but nothing concrete yet. Bottom line, we should be due for some surf in the month of October. Just as the East Coast starts to fizzle. Hmmm… kind of odd if you ask me. Anyway, if anything changes between now and then, keep up to date on the waves and weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:
 
If it’s not hot like summer and it’s not cold like winter, then it must be fall. Weak cold fronts pass by to the north and will kick up the low clouds and fog for the foreseeable future. Look for clouds to burn off by mid-morning, sun mid-day, and low clouds to return at night. Temps will be near 70 at the coast and we have a chance of dense fog. Makes those dawn patrols more challenging.

BEST BET:
Next Thursday with solid SW swell. I can finally breathe again.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:
 
Sharks as you know, have been quite the talk of the town this past year- especially in Orange County. Multiple attacks and sightings from San Onofre to Huntington Beach have made people second guess paddling out by themselves- no matter how good the surf is. One surfer and a team of scientists have tried to remedy the situation with a new warning system. The surfer in question is none other than Bronzed Aussie, world tour pioneer, and Wavestorm executive (you can’t make that stuff up) Ian ‘Kanga’ Cairns. I’ll let the LA Times explain:

A stretch of water off Corona del Mar State Beach will be used to test sonar buoys that could help quickly alert lifeguards to sharks lurking near the coast, officials announced last week. In a news conference at Inspiration Point, Newport Beach Mayor Kevin Muldoon, U.S. Rep. Dana Rohrabacher (R-Costa Mesa) and others discussed installing six of the special buoys by Memorial Day in a roughly 1,000-yard stretch of water between the offshore rocks near Poppy and Ocean avenues and the jetty at the mouth of Newport Harbor.

The devices, designed by Australia-based Shark Mitigation Systems, are called Clever Buoys. Ian Cairns, a representative of SMS, said the buoys also use sonar transducers, which will be on the ocean floor. A transducer is an electronic device that converts energy from one form to another. Together, the buoys and transducers can find nearby marine animals and, based on the swimming patterns, detect whether an animal is a shark or dolphin. Cairns said the buoys will notify lifeguards seconds after a sighting, giving them ample time to investigate.

 
Rob Williams, Newport Beach’s chief lifeguard, said his teams can use boats or drones to respond to the alerts and, depending on the size or behavior of a shark, quickly issue warnings or beach closures. “We’re very excited about it as a city and a lifeguard division,” Williams said. Final funding for the buoys is still being secured, as are various permits. Rohrabacher, a senior member of the House Committee on Science and Technology, said he will be looking for federal funding to help. He said city, county, state or private money also could go into the effort.

Rohrabacher added that the buoy alerts to lifeguards could one day also be available to the public on a phone app. Rohrabacher called sharks off the Southern California coast an “expanding threat” that he’s experienced while surfing. He joked that he has both local experience with the predators and “the sharks back in Washington.”

Officials noted that Corona del Mar State Beach, known as Big Corona, was the spot where swimmer Maria Korcsmaros was bitten last year by a shark, possibly a great white, about 150 yards offshore. She survived the attack. Later that year, Newport Beach became the first city in Orange County to have a dedicated shark page on its website. The city also installed acoustic receivers at the Newport Pier, Balboa Pier and off Corona del Mar to gather information for the site.

Pretty crazy to think that in the future that if you want to go surfing, you may have to check the swell buoys, tides, weather, and now a shark app. I don’t know if I can keep track of all that.

PIC OF THE WEEK:
 
 
When A-Frames go bad. Imagine trying to duck dive this thing?
 
Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Worth My Weight In Gold
Jimmy Crack Corn And I Don’t Care
2020 USA Olympic Surf Team: Slater, Florence, Moore, Glenn