Thursday, February 15, 2018

THE Surf Report- Early Edition



At least the groms are stoked.

SURF:


Another small semi-clean week of surf. Had a little NW show up Monday/Tuesday with a touch of early season SW for chest high sets- but that was about it. Today there was leftover NW/SW for waist high waves. This afternoon the NW wind was blowing and it didn’t do much to build up the surf. For tomorrow, look for waist high+ NW/SW again with clean conditions. Saturday drops slightly but it’s still waist high. Sunday the low clouds return and the surf drops to knee to waist high. All in all some nice weather Friday/Saturday and small waves but not enough to get the adrenaline flowing. 


Water temps are high 50’s and the tides this weekend are 3’ at sunrise, up to 5’ mid-morning, and down to 0’ at sunset. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves and weather at Twitter/North County Surf. 

FORECAST:
Been kind of quiet the past few weeks in the Pacific. I bet it has nothing to do with the fact I bought a step up at the end of January and haven’t ridden it once. I actually had a friend of mine call me out and say I’m the reason for the small surf lately. I think he’s giving me too much credit- I wish I had those kinds of magical powers. I should have bought a groveler instead though and I bet our surf would be 10’ right now. Anyway, where were we? Oh yeah- the small surf. 


We have a cold front coming through on Monday that will whip up our SW winds, drop some light showers, and get the surf back to the head high range by nightfall. If you want to surf and don’t mind a little bump, that’s all Mother Nature has on tap. Tuesday it’s shoulder high with NW winds behind the front. 


We also have a weak storm off Antarctica today that may give the OC some waist high SW next Thursday/Friday and not much for San Diego County. High pressure is still in command in the North Pacific and it’s stunting our swell generation. 


Models show a storm forming off Japan next week that fizzles out before it even gets to Hawaii. With any luck, we may get some waist to chest high WNW from it next weekend. 


And further out, forecast charts show some disorganized storm activity in the southern hemisphere which may give us chest high waves the first few days of March.

WEATHER:


Still no big storms on the horizon but we may have a shower here and there. First up is weak high pressure overhead which will give us great beach weather tomorrow with temps in the mid-70’s and low 70’s on Saturday. We have a small cold front coming down that will kick up the low clouds on Sunday and a chance of showers and windy conditions on Monday. Tuesday is a transition day then high pressure sets up again for great weather again mid-week-  then maybe another shot of showers late Thursday and Friday. Feels more like spring than winter.

BEST BET:
Can’t believe I’m saying this… Best Bet is Monday afternoon with windy, junky, head high storm surf. I guess you gotta take what you can get right now. Ugh.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:


Nice weather we’re having. Almost too nice. As you know, I’ve been talking about our dry La Nina weather pattern since last September and what that means for our lack of rain this winter. As luck would have it, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration is starting to see signs that the La Nina is finally weakening. Hooray! I think. Let’s have a look at the changing atmosphere and what’s in store the next few months:



During January, the sea surface temperature in the eastern tropical (known as the Niño3.4 region- our primary measurement for La Nina/El Nino activity)- was close to 2 degrees cooler than the long-term average. This places it comfortably in La Niña territory.

The November–January temperature in the Niño3.4 region was also 2 degrees cooler than the long-term average. Our second straight year of La Niña’s has been stronger than the first, as the greatest departure from average last year was just 1 degree.  This is somewhat unusual for a consecutive year La Niña, as the second year tends to be a bit weaker than the first.



The atmosphere at this time continues to respond to the cooler-than-average surface waters in the tropical Pacific. Those cooler-than-average waters lead to less rising air and cloud formation in the central Pacific than average (i.e. less of a tropical connection for our storms), with more rising air and bigger storms forming over the far western Pacific and Indonesia.

More evidence during January was provided by stronger-than-average near-surface winds (the trade winds), as well as stronger west-to-east winds in the upper atmosphere. The stronger trade winds help to keep the surface cooler, and to keep warmer water piled up in the far western Pacific—part of the critical feedback processes that make up La Nina/El Nino weather patterns (also known as El Niño-Southern Oscillation or ENSO for short ). However, this feedback doesn’t go on forever, and we’re seeing signs that La Niña’s swan song is imminent.

Scientists also keep track of what’s going on under the surface of the tropical Pacific, as significant temperature changes in the subsurface waters can provide a valuable clue about the evolution of ENSO events. From early December to late January, an area of warmer-than-average water centered between 160–650 feet under the surface traveled from the western Pacific to the east-central Pacific. This underwater wave chased away most of the cooler-than-average subsurface waters, leaving La Niña without it’s steady supply of cooler waters.

This movement toward more neutral subsurface temperatures is one of the factors forecasters are looking at as we anticipate the decline of La Niña. Most of the computer models also foresee this transition, and overall forecasters have come to the consensus of a 55% chance that La Niña conditions will dissipate by the March–May timeframe, as the tropical Pacific transitions to neutral conditions.

While this La Niña’s effect on precipitation and temperature has been generally in-line with expectations over North America, especially regarding the dry conditions across the southern half of the US, global impacts haven’t been entirely as expected during the past few months. Unfortunately, by the time La Nina loosens it’s grip on us, we’ll be head first into spring and our dry summer season again. Bah-humbug.

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Surfed this spot in the far northwest a few years back. Had to park my truck in the bushes, just off an old dirt (i.e. muddy) backroad- so the locals wouldn’t see me- and then hike through the forest 3 miles to get to the surf. Wore my full suit, booties, and gloves on the sweaty hike so I wouldn’t brush up against poison oak. Then put my backpack on the beach and surfed for 4 hours while two bear cubs tore apart my lunch and their 500 pound momma bear kept a watchful eye over me. Dodged an Orca or two then decided to call it a day before the sun set and hypothermia kicked in. That was the least of my worries though. I was chased back to my car by Sasquatch only to find it stolen. Had to hitch hike back the 1,300+ miles home. Luckily got a ride from Large Marge. True story.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Keeping It Real
2nd On My Fantasy Olympic Team
0.385 Combined Winning Percentage Vs. Richie Rudolph, Noah Budroe, and Kelly Gibson