Thursday, November 26, 2020

THE Surf Report- Early Edition

Hope you didn't eat too much or you'll miss the dawn patrol tomorrow!


SURF:

Fun NW earlier in the week was replaced but really fun NW this afternoon for shoulder high surf most everywhere. That swell is peaking tonight and we'll have some leftover chest high surf in the AM along with Santa Ana winds. That fades into the weekend unfortunately and we're back to waist high sets by Sunday. The weather will be nice though so get on it early Friday morning. And here's the tides, sun, and water info:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 6:32 AM sunrise 
    • 4:43 PM sunset
  • Water temps are holding at 60. 
  • And we've got big tide swings this weekend:
    • 6.5' at sunrise
    • -0.5 mid afternoon
    • 2' at sunset
FORECAST:


Quiet to start the work week but we get more chest high steep NW on Tuesday afternoon (and bigger towards SD). 


After that we finally get a storm that's aimed more from the W and the result is better/bigger surf starting Thursday the 4th and holding into at least Saturday the 6th. Look for head high surf and good conditions again. Models also show more good WNW towards the middle of the month and maybe the start of our rainy season? If anything changes between now and then, make sure to check out Twitter/North County Surf.

BEST BET: 
Tomorrow morning before the swell dies or pretty much the 2nd half of next week. 

WEATHER:


Santa Ana wind event is on tap tomorrow with temps near 70 and wind gusts near 20. The OC will have stronger winds so watch your back up there. Saturday the winds start to back off but the warm sunny weather remains. Most of next week will be sunny, mild, and no rain in sight. As mentioned above, models hint at high pressure breaking down the 2nd half of December and maybe our first shot of persistent rain. Let's hope. 

NEWS OF THE WEEK: 


Came across some historical data from the buoys up and down the West Coast (which only has around 25 years of reliable data) and saw some eye popping numbers. Remember any of these swells?
  • Oceanside offshore buoy: 17.8' on 2/1/16
  • San Nicholas Island buoy: 30' on 1/21/17
  • Torrey Pines offshore buoy: 19.4' on 2/1/16
  • Scripps Pier buoy: 17' on 2/1/16
  • Mission Bay West buoy: 19.8' on 2/1/16
  • Point Conception buoy: 32.7' on 2/24/08
  • San Pedro offshore buoy: 16.8' on 2/1/16
  • And the granddaddy of them all... Ocean Station Papa buoy (Oregon): 49.8' on 12/19/12! 

As you can see above, 2/1/16 was a pretty solid day here in Southern California with most readings between 15-20'. What did THE Surf Report (http://northcountysurf.blogspot.com/2016/01/) say back then? "Models are showing an unusually large NW windswell filling in. Large meaning 15'. Not sure about that, but I think it's going to be big and out of control regardless." Basically we had a storm right on top of us thanks to El Nino and big messy stormsurf. So unfortunately, it wasn't rideable. Opposite of this winter's La Nina (small and clean). What's your preference? Big and stormy or clean and small? Personally, I like big and messy with no one out! 

PIC OF THE WEEK:



This is how my stomach feels after Thanksgiving dinner. 

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Thankful
Wish Every Weekend Was A Four Day Weekend
Wear A 5/4/3 To Keep My Giblets Warm