Thursday, May 30, 2024

THE Surf Report

 


June (Not So) Gloom.

SURF:


May has been quite pleasant around here lately. A little bit of surf, water temps are tolerable, and May Gray hasn't dominated our weather. As we head into June this weekend, looks to be more of the same. Friday/Saturday looks to have small waist high combo swell and we have a weak cold front moving by to the N which will give us a little more June Gloom for the weekend. BUT... it will also increase our NW windswell slightly. 


Add in a new small SW swell and we'll have fun chest high surf by Sunday. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 5:41 AM sunrise (paddle out at 5:30 AM!)
    • 7:53 PM sunset (paddle in at 8 PM!)
  • Water temps are hanging on to 63. 
  • And tides are starting to fluctuate finally:
    • about 3.5' at sunrise
    • 0.5' at lunch
    • and up to 5.5' towards sunset
FORECAST:

Next week is looking pretty fun- and the June Gloom should start to back off too for more sun in the afternoons. 


We've got new SW swell filling in on Monday along with a contiunation of the NW windswell for chest high+ waves. That will last into Wednesday. 


We may also see a very LATE season NW groundswell towards Thursday for chest high surf in SD. 


And the southern hemisphere looks to stay active too and we should see more fun but small SW again towards next weekend and a 2nd slightly larger swell around the 12th could be possible. All in all some fun waves the next 2 weeks. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on X (Twitter)
WEATHER:


We've had some springtime weather in recent memory with 3 months of cloudy weather and other times with 3 months of sunny weather. So far in 2024- we've been in between. No complaints. As mentioned above, we have a weak cold front moving by the N this weekend and we'll see a bit more clouds Friday/Saturday. Sunday should be a transition day with HOPEFULLY the sun peaking out in the afternoon, and then a warm up next week for the inland valleys. That could go either way for us- a slight warm up and a touch more sun in the afternoons- or socked in clouds at the coast all day. I'm hoping for sun. Here's what's in store for the coming week:
  • Friday/Saturday: Mostly cloudy. Temps 68/57.
  • Sunday. Transition day with MAYBE some sun in the afternoon? Temps 67/58
  • Monday and beyond: Should see mostly sunny afternoons. Temps 70/60.
BEST BET:
  • Sunday through Wednesday with fun combo swell
  • More fun SW swell next weekend
NEWS OF THE WEEK:


A surfer normally spends 75% of their time on the surface of the ocean. The other 25% is underwater while duck diving or wiping out (which I wouldn't know about). Since we spend a majority of our time above the surface, we really don't see what's going on beneath us (nor do we want to know). So I don't blame you if you haven't seen recently what's been going on below your dangling feet on the San Diego seafloor. Here's the Smithsonian to explain...

Usually, when scuba divers explore the waters off San Diego, they see lots of fish—and maybe the occasional shark or octopus. But, in recent weeks, they’ve found the seafloor completely covered in small, red crustaceans. The plentiful creatures are called tuna crabs (Pleuroncodes planipes)—they’re related to hermit crabs but are actually a type of squat lobster. Measuring one to three inches long, these bright animals can fit in the palm of a human hand. Tuna crabs typically live in the waters off Baja California, Mexico. But, for at least the third time in ten years, they’ve been swarming farther north, near Southern California.

It’s not totally clear what’s causing the unusual throngs of tuna crabs outside their normal territory. Sometimes, they even wash up on beaches in droves, which scientists have described as a “striking and puzzling phenomenon.” But the crustaceans’ recent appearances near San Diego suggest “something different is happening in the ocean,” says Megan Cimino, a marine scientist at the University of California, Santa Cruz, to the New York Times’ Jules Jacobs.

“When we think about climate change, the first thing to come to mind might be warming temperatures, but climate change can result in more variable ocean conditions,” she adds. Scientists have previously linked tuna crab swarms to stronger-than-normal ocean currents that start near Baja California. Sometimes, those strong currents align with El NiƱo, but not always.

Tuna crabs are susceptible to ocean currents, because they are not strong swimmers, spending part of their lives floating up through the water column, where they feast on plankton. (This also makes them vulnerable to predators, such as tuna, which is how the crustaceans got their common name.)

“It’s not that the crabs are deliberately making their way to us,” says Charlotte Seid, a marine biologist who manages the benthic invertebrate collection at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California San Diego, to NBC 7 San Diego’s Danielle Smith. “They live in those waters and get swept up, sort of like birds outside of their migration route, and they find their way to California, even farther north than us.”

For now, the tuna crabs carpeting the seafloor are providing local predators—including birds, squid, whales, porpoises and large fish—with a plethora of easy calories. But, eventually, those that don’t get eaten will either wash up on shore, like they did in 2015, or get pushed back out to sea. “The crabs start to die because the local waters are much cooler,” Michael Shane, a marine ecologist at the Hubbs-SeaWorld Research Institute, told ABC News in 2015. “It’s not entirely alarming, but it has been unusual to see them in these numbers year after year,” Seid tells NBC 7.

In the meantime, the crabs are creating a ruddy-hued spectacle for divers. “It was interesting for me personally as a recreational scuba diver to see so many of them alive, seeing them interacting with other species,” Seid tells CBS 8’s Brian White. “Recently I saw a little baby octopus chewing on a dead one, so kind of keeping that food chain going.”

BEST OF THE BLOG:



Wanted to say thank you again to everyone that played, donated, or sponsored our 9th annual charity golf tournament presented by Venture LLP. We raised serious funds that benefited Foster The Earth with the goal of helping vulnerable children and young adults in the foster care system through exposure to the great outdoors

And as we look to the future, we have yet ANOTHER event in our sights, this time a mixer to support a local business. From the masterminds that brought you Surfhouse, we give you.... Coffee Coffee! Come join us on Thursday EVENING (coffee isn't just for breakfast anymore), June 20th at 5:30 PM to grab a drink, maybe a slice of pizza or two, network, and learn about the origins of this local 'surfer' owned business in Leucadia. And feel free to bring a friend! The only prerequisite is to have a passion for riding waves. Thanks for supporting your community and we'll see you on the 20th! 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


This is why they call it the Golden Hour. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Demand Excellence
Roller Derby Any Chance I Get
I've Been Thinking About This. If I'm Here And You're Here, Doesn't That Make It OUR Time?

Thursday, May 23, 2024

THE Surf Report

 


Ground vs. Wind vs. Ground

SURF:


What a week of surf- and the May Gray wasn't as bad as advertised either. Our good southern hemi groundswell is slowly being replaced today by NW windswell. For tomorrow, look for waist high surf with chest high sets from the combo swells. 


By Saturday, the SW will be tiny while the NW windswell peaks to the chest high range. That drops like a rock Saturday night and by Sunday we're back to waist high surf. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 5:43 AM sunrise 
    • 7:48 PM sunset 
  • Water temps are hanging on to 63. Even though we're headed towards a La Nina summer (i.e. colder than average water temps), at least we haven't had the persistent NW winds which plagued last summer and nullified our anticipated warm 'El Nino' waters. 
  • And not much change in tides again this weekend:
    • about 1' at sunrise
    • oddly enough, just about 3' in the afternoons
    • and up slightly to 4.5' at sunset
FORECAST:

Not much in the near term as the N and S Pacific have taken a breather recently. Just look for waist high sets at best from a couple small swells Monday and Wednesday. 


Models do though show the southern hemisphere coming back to life this weekend which should give us fun shoulder high SW towards the end of the month...


and then another shoulder high SW around June 4th. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on X (Twitter). On a side note, looks the beginning of the Teahupoo contest should have good surf this weekend and bombing surf towards the end of the event window 5/29-31. Make sure to watch the worldsurfleague.com for all the drama! 

WEATHER:


The expected May Gray the last few days never truly materialized and we had sunny weather- an oddity this time of year. The clouds will return though and look to stick around the next couple days. Good news though is that we should see a little more sun in the afternoons Sunday/Monday. The rest of next week looks to be fairly tame with night/morning low clouds and partly sunny afternoons. Here's what's in store:
  • Friday: Overcast and drizzle at night. Temps 65/55
  • Saturday: Chance of sun in the afternoon. Temps 67/55.
  • Sunday/Monday. Sunny in the afternoon. Temps 70/60
  • Tuesday and beyond: Night/morning low clouds, partly sunny afternoons. Temps 70/60.
BEST BET:
  • Saturday with chest high NW windswell.
  • Next weekend with fun SW.  
NEWS OF THE WEEK:


Today might be my favorite day of the year as this is when NOAA comes out with their Eastern Pacific Hurricane forecast. Nerd alert! No shame here. As mentioned in previous THE Surf Reports, looks like we're headed towards a La Nina summer. Bad news for the West Coast and good news (good being a relative term when destruction is involved) for the East Coast. As our water temps cool here along the West Coast, the lack of winds on the East Coast from the building La Nina help keep the wind shear to a minimum and hurricane formation to a maximum. In fact, NOAA's Atlantic Hurricane forecast is a doozy:
  • A whopping 17-25 named storms (that's 1 a week over a 6 month period)
  • 8-13 hurricanes (every other week)
  • AND... unfortunately 4-7 major hurricanes. Great for surf, awful for cities. 
But let's get back on track here and talk about OUR Eastern Pacific hurricane season which started May 15th and ends November 30th. The cooler than expected water temps off the California, Baja, and Mainland Mexico coasts will limit the energy to form hurricanes. NOAA's forecast calls for:
  • 11-17 named storms
  • 4-9 hurricanes 
  • and only 1-4 major hurricanes

To put that into perspective, let's say we see the worst case scenario of 11 named storms, 4 of those are hurricanes, and just 1 is a major hurricane. All of those would have to be in our swell window (i.e. out of Baja's shadow) AND move towards us BEFORE dying off in California's cooler waters. That's asking A LOT. But let's look at the brightside:
  • We had a ton of NW wind off our coast last year and our water temps were colder than average. Wearing trunks was out of the question- in an El Nino year! So far (knock on wood), we've had typical SW wind and our water temps are manageable. Hopefully this summer we'll see some mid-70's. 
  • Bottom line is, we want surf. If it's not going to come from the tropics, then let's hope the southern hemisphere can provide. And it's been good so far this spring. Could we see our luck last into summer?
Regardless of the outcome, let's expect the worst and hope for the best when it comes to hurricane surf! 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


While us Left Coast surfers may be riding our grovelers this August, our brethren from Miami to Montauk may be staring this down instead. Let's just hope for everyone's sake, the storms that make these gems stay well offshore. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Pacesetter
Mayor of Leucadia
Leader of the Free(surf) World

Thursday, May 16, 2024

THE Surf Report

 


Solid Spring.

SURF:

Sorry for missing THE Surf Report last week. I was in Montana watching it snow, then watching the Aurora Borealis, then watching it turn to sun and 70 degrees. Impressive to say the least. Hope you got some surf while I was gone. 


I heard we had some fun waves, some clouds, and some red tide. For the weekend, we have more of the same. So if you love waves and overcast conditions, welcome to May Gray. 


We had a series of storms last week off New Zealand/Antarctica and the first one fills in on Friday for chest high surf. The 2nd swell arrives Saturday for shoulder high+ surf. That will last into Sunday. And there's been sightings of red tide here and there the past few days so if it bothers your sinuses- check it before paddling out. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 5:48 AM sunrise 
    • 7:43 PM sunset 
  • Water temps are hovering around 64. 
  • And not much change in tides this weekend:
    • 3.5' at sunrise
    • down to 1' at lunch
    • and back up to 5' at sunset
FORECAST:


The good SW from the weekend rolls into Monday and then we get the 3rd and final swell from the southern hemisphere on Tuesday for more shoulder high+ surf into Wednesday. We also may see a touch of NW too that should help break up the SW walls. For next weekend, it's looking pretty small but the southern hemisphere may come to life again and send swell for the end of the month. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on X (Twitter).

WEATHER:


Nothing to report here. If you seen one May Gray, you've seen them all. Here's what we have on tap for the next several days:
  • Friday through Friday: May Gray. Temps 65/55. It's not like I didn't warn you. 
BEST BET:

  • Friday should be fun with new SW but the 2 following swells hitting Saturday and Tuesday will be a touch bigger. Might be Emergency Boardriding System time. 
NEWS OF THE WEEK:


If you saw video of the Black's Beach bluff collapse earlier this year, you know what a problem our coastlines are having and the hazards the unstable bluffs create. Scripps researchers though are laser-focused on forecasting bluff failure along California's coast to help keep us safe in the future and it could be vital to how the we addresses sea level rise in the future. Here's more from NBC 7:

"You see differences on our beaches every day if you look," said Dr. Adam Young, a coastal geomorphologist, who heads up a project regularly surveying San Diego's coast using LiDAR technology. "LiDAR stands for light detection and ranging," said Young. "It's essentially a laser mapping system."

Researchers mount LiDAR scanners onto trucks, ATVs, or drones and then traverse the coast. The scanners send out roughly 500,000 light pulses per second, which bounce off of the land's surface and then back to the scanner. The data is then used to create extremely high-resolution, three-dimensional maps of the coast that can detect details down to just a few centimeters.

Researchers take that detailed map and compare it to previous scans of the same area to detect even the smallest changes in our coastal bluffs because small changes could be a sign of something bigger to come. "A landslide, for example, can be a series of events," said Young. "So, a landslide can be active over a period of weeks or days or months." He acknowledges predicting exactly when or where a bluff will fail is still very difficult, but there are signs they can look for. They're hoping this project will make it easier someday.

"We want to use this information to build better models to help predict how our coastline is going to evolve in the future." And speaking of the future, the recent El NiƱo may be a glimpse into it. Ocean levels rise slightly during an El NiƱo year. Combine that with above-normal rain, several rounds of king tides, and a couple days with some of the biggest surf we've seen in years, and it is a recipe for erosion. One member of the survey team called the beaches the most eroded she'd ever seen them.

Young calls their work one of the most detailed data sets ever collected on California's coastline, and says it could be vital to how the state addresses sea level rise in the future. "Understanding the processes that are happening now are absolutely critical if we want to understand and try to predict what's going to happen in the future."

BEST OF THE BLOG:


IT'S ALMOST TIME! North County Board Meeting's 9th annual charity golf tournament- sponsored by Venture LLP- is TOMORROW! Friday! May 17th! For those of you playing with us, here are the details:
  • Check in from 7-7:30 AM with Coffee Coffee
  • A quick word from our sponsors at 7:45 AM
  • Tee off at 8 AM! 
  • Hit the clubhouse patio for lunch with SeƱor Grubby's around 12:30 PM
  • Awards ceremony, auction, and raffle 1-2 PM
  • And then kick back and enjoy the rest of your Friday!
This year we're benefitting Foster the Earth, an organization dedicated to helping vulnerable children and young adults in the foster care system through exposure to the great outdoors. And a BIG thank you to our list of generous sponsors. Thanks for your support and we'll see you at Goat Hill! 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Bali leg burners. The cure? Bintang. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
On The Leaderboard
He's Been Club Champion 3 Years Running, And I'm No Slouch Myself.
Surf AM, Golf PM. Or Is It The Other Way Around.

Thursday, May 2, 2024

THE Surf Report

 


Windy Then Wavey.

SURF:


May Gray is in full effect! The good news about all these clouds and SW winds is that it's kicked up our NW windswell this week. Without any real swells from the southern hemi, I'm gratefull we at least have something to ride. If you got on it early this weekend, you most likely surfed fun chest high surf before the winds kicked in. For the weekend, we have more of the same on Friday before the tail end of a low pressure moves by to the N of us Saturday/Sunday. 


As it does, the winds will strengthen along our shores and bumpy shoulder high+ NW windswell will fill in. Good news: we got surf. Bad news: it will be bumpy. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 5:58 AM sunrise 
    • 7:33 PM sunset 
  • Water temps are hovering around 63 thanks to the SW wind. BUT... it may drop if the winds switch to the NW from the departing cold front on Sunday. 
  • And not much change in tides this weekend:
    • 4.5' at sunrise
    • down to 0' at lunch
    • and back up to 4' at sunrise
FORECAST:

Once the cold front exits the region this weekend, we're left with sunny skies and building SW swell. Finally. A good storm last week has sent SW swell our way and we should start seeing chest high surf late Monday. 


The swell kicks in Tuesday/Wednesday for head high surf towards N County SD along with more NW windswell. Next weekend looks smaller but more storms are lining up in Antarctica. If they do, we could see more shoulder high+ SW mid-month. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on X (Twitter).

WEATHER:


Really can't complain about the showers and cooler weather. Better than brown hillsides and drought this summer. As mentioned above, we've got a weak cold front headed our way for Saturday afternoon in to Sunday morning. Not a real rain maker, but we should expect 1/10". And after that- back to springtime conditions next week. Here's what we have on tap for the next several days:
  • Friday: May Gray. Temps 68/55.
  • Saturday: Increasing winds and clouds. Showers late. Temps 66/56.
  • Sunday: Showers early and breezy. Mostly sunny in the afternoon. Temps 61/50.
  • Monday and beyond: Morning low clouds and afternoon sun. Temps 68/55
BEST BET:
  • Tuesday/Wednesday with good SW and a touch of NW windswell.
NEWS OF THE WEEK:


As our summer hurricane season is quickly approaching, two scientists are already thinking about going full Spinal Tap and turning the volume up to 11. Currently the preferred Saffir-Simpson Scale only goes to 5 with hurricane winds in excess of 157 mph, but if our planet keeps warming up, we're going to have to turn it up to 6. Here's the L.A. Times with more details:

In 1973, the National Hurricane Center introduced the Saffir-Simpson scale, a five-category rating system that classified hurricanes by wind intensity. At the bottom of the scale was Category 1, for storms with sustained winds of 74 to 95 mph. At the top was Category 5, for disasters with winds of 157 mph or more.
In the half-century since the scale’s debut, land and ocean temperatures have steadily risen as a result of greenhouse gas emissions. Hurricanes have become more intense, with stronger winds and heavier rainfall. This week a research team at the University of Pennsylvania led by climate scientist Michael Mann predicted that the North Atlantic will see an unprecedented 33 named tropical cyclones from June 1 to Nov. 30.

With catastrophic storms regularly blowing past the 157-mph threshold, some scientists argue, the Saffir-Simpson scale no longer adequately conveys the threat the biggest hurricanes present. Earlier this year, two climate scientists published a paper that compared historical storm activity to a hypothetical version of the Saffir-Simpson scale that included a Category 6, for storms with sustained winds of 192 mph or more.

Of the 197 hurricanes classified as Category 5 from 1980 to 2021, five fit the description of a hypothetical Category 6 hurricane: Typhoon Haiyan in 2013, Hurricane Patricia in 2015, Typhoon Meranti in 2016, Typhoon Goni in 2020 and Typhoon Surigae in 2021.

Patricia, which made landfall near Jalisco, Mexico, in October 2015, is the most powerful tropical cyclone ever recorded in terms of maximum sustained winds. (While the paper looked at global storms, only storms in the Atlantic Ocean and the northern Pacific Ocean east of the International Date Line are officially ranked on the Saffir-Simpson scale. Other parts of the world use different classification systems.)


Though the storm had weakened to a Category 4 by the time it made landfall, its sustained winds over the Pacific Ocean hit 215 mph. “That’s kind of incomprehensible,” said Michael F. Wehner, a senior scientist at the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory and co-author of the Category 6 paper. “That's faster than a racing car in a straightaway. It’s a new and dangerous world.”

In their paper, which was published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, Wehner and co-author James P. Kossin of the University of Wisconsin–Madison did not explicitly call for the adoption of a Category 6, primarily because the scale is quickly being supplanted by other measurement tools that more accurately gauge the hazard of a specific storm.

“The Saffir-Simpson scale is not all that good for warning the public of the impending danger of a storm,” Wehner said.The category scale measures only sustained wind speeds, which is just one of the threats a major storm presents. Of the 455 direct fatalities in the U.S. due to hurricanes from 2013 to 2023 — a figure that excludes deaths from 2017’s Hurricane Maria — less than 15% were caused by wind, National Hurricane Center director Mike Brennan said during a recent public meeting. The rest were caused by storm surges, flooding and rip tides. The Saffir-Simpson scale is a relic of an earlier age in forecasting, Brennan said.

“Thirty years ago, that's basically all we could tell you about a hurricane, is how strong it was right now. We couldn't really tell you much about where it was going to go, or how strong it was going to be, or what the hazards were going to look like,” Brennan said during the meeting, which was organized by the American Meteorological Society. “We can tell people a lot more than that now.” He confirmed the National Hurricane Center has no plans to introduce a Category 6, primarily because it is already trying “to not emphasize the scale very much,” Brennan said. Other meteorologists said that's the right call.

“I don't see the value in it at this time,” said Mark Bourassa, a meteorologist at Florida State University’s Center for Ocean-Atmospheric Prediction Studies. “There are other issues that could be better addressed, like the spatial extent of the storm and storm surge, that would convey more useful information [and] help with emergency management as well as individual people's decisions.”

Simplistic as they are, Herbert Saffir and Robert Simpson’s categories are the first thing many people think of when they try to grasp the scale of a storm. In that sense, the scale’s persistence over the years helps people understand how much the climate has changed since its introduction. “What the Saffir-Simpson scale is good for is quantifying, showing, that the most intense storms are becoming more intense because of climate change,” Wehner said. “It's not like it used to be.”

BEST OF THE BLOG:


Our 9th annual charity golf tournament- sponsored by Venture LLP- is just TWO WEEKS AWAY! For those of you playing Goat Hill on Friday, May 17th, here are the details:
  • Check in from 7-7:30 AM
  • A quick word from our sponsors at 7:45 AM
  • Tee off at 8 AM! 
  • Hit the clubhouse patio for lunch with SeƱor Grubby's around 12:30 PM
  • Awards ceremony, auction, and raffle 1-2 PM
  • And then kick back and enjoy the rest of your Friday! 
This year we'll be benefitting Foster the Earth, an organization dedicated to helping vulnerable children and young adults in the foster care system through exposure to the great outdoors. And if you didn't have a chance to sign up but still want to support your community, we still have a couple spots left for hole sponsorships and are always in need of auction/raffle items, so please reach out to northcountyboardmeeting@gmail.com. And thank you to our ever growing list of generous sponsors:
  • Venture LLP
  • Sun Bum 
  • Yeti 
  • Best Pizza 
  • Surf Ride
  • Foundation Laboratory
  • S & A Publishing
  • Logicopy
  • ALOHA Collection
  • Evnroll Putters
  • North County Board Meeting
  • Electra Bicycles
  • Seawise Financial
  • The Cottage Restaurant
  • payrollHUB
  • Linksoul
  • Sam Ross
  • Venture LLP
  • Melin
  • Inn at Rancho Santa Fe
  • Acrisure Insurance
  • payrollHUB
  • David Taxer eXp Realty
  • Chris Hendricks/Fox Law, APC
  • Logicopy
  • OluKai
  • The Harth Team
  • C3Bank
  • Agency 73
  • Surfhouse
  • SeƱor Grubby's
  • Coffee Coffee
  • Phillips + Co Real Estate
PIC OF THE WEEK:


Now, sitting on the beach and reading a book while getting a tan may be fine and dandy, but I'd rather be getting pitted in the shore break on this gem. Priorities people. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
Loyal
About To Launch My App 'TokTik'
I Spend WAAAAAY Too Much Time Thinking About Surfing