Thursday, May 16, 2024

THE Surf Report

 


Solid Spring.

SURF:

Sorry for missing THE Surf Report last week. I was in Montana watching it snow, then watching the Aurora Borealis, then watching it turn to sun and 70 degrees. Impressive to say the least. Hope you got some surf while I was gone. 


I heard we had some fun waves, some clouds, and some red tide. For the weekend, we have more of the same. So if you love waves and overcast conditions, welcome to May Gray. 


We had a series of storms last week off New Zealand/Antarctica and the first one fills in on Friday for chest high surf. The 2nd swell arrives Saturday for shoulder high+ surf. That will last into Sunday. And there's been sightings of red tide here and there the past few days so if it bothers your sinuses- check it before paddling out. And here’s the sun, tides, and water temps for the upcoming weekend:
  • Sunrise and sunset:
    • 5:48 AM sunrise 
    • 7:43 PM sunset 
  • Water temps are hovering around 64. 
  • And not much change in tides this weekend:
    • 3.5' at sunrise
    • down to 1' at lunch
    • and back up to 5' at sunset
FORECAST:


The good SW from the weekend rolls into Monday and then we get the 3rd and final swell from the southern hemisphere on Tuesday for more shoulder high+ surf into Wednesday. We also may see a touch of NW too that should help break up the SW walls. For next weekend, it's looking pretty small but the southern hemisphere may come to life again and send swell for the end of the month. If anything changes between now and then, make sure to follow North County Surf on X (Twitter).

WEATHER:


Nothing to report here. If you seen one May Gray, you've seen them all. Here's what we have on tap for the next several days:
  • Friday through Friday: May Gray. Temps 65/55. It's not like I didn't warn you. 
BEST BET:

  • Friday should be fun with new SW but the 2 following swells hitting Saturday and Tuesday will be a touch bigger. Might be Emergency Boardriding System time. 
NEWS OF THE WEEK:


If you saw video of the Black's Beach bluff collapse earlier this year, you know what a problem our coastlines are having and the hazards the unstable bluffs create. Scripps researchers though are laser-focused on forecasting bluff failure along California's coast to help keep us safe in the future and it could be vital to how the we addresses sea level rise in the future. Here's more from NBC 7:

"You see differences on our beaches every day if you look," said Dr. Adam Young, a coastal geomorphologist, who heads up a project regularly surveying San Diego's coast using LiDAR technology. "LiDAR stands for light detection and ranging," said Young. "It's essentially a laser mapping system."

Researchers mount LiDAR scanners onto trucks, ATVs, or drones and then traverse the coast. The scanners send out roughly 500,000 light pulses per second, which bounce off of the land's surface and then back to the scanner. The data is then used to create extremely high-resolution, three-dimensional maps of the coast that can detect details down to just a few centimeters.

Researchers take that detailed map and compare it to previous scans of the same area to detect even the smallest changes in our coastal bluffs because small changes could be a sign of something bigger to come. "A landslide, for example, can be a series of events," said Young. "So, a landslide can be active over a period of weeks or days or months." He acknowledges predicting exactly when or where a bluff will fail is still very difficult, but there are signs they can look for. They're hoping this project will make it easier someday.

"We want to use this information to build better models to help predict how our coastline is going to evolve in the future." And speaking of the future, the recent El Niño may be a glimpse into it. Ocean levels rise slightly during an El Niño year. Combine that with above-normal rain, several rounds of king tides, and a couple days with some of the biggest surf we've seen in years, and it is a recipe for erosion. One member of the survey team called the beaches the most eroded she'd ever seen them.

Young calls their work one of the most detailed data sets ever collected on California's coastline, and says it could be vital to how the state addresses sea level rise in the future. "Understanding the processes that are happening now are absolutely critical if we want to understand and try to predict what's going to happen in the future."

BEST OF THE BLOG:


IT'S ALMOST TIME! North County Board Meeting's 9th annual charity golf tournament- sponsored by Venture LLP- is TOMORROW! Friday! May 17th! For those of you playing with us, here are the details:
  • Check in from 7-7:30 AM with Coffee Coffee
  • A quick word from our sponsors at 7:45 AM
  • Tee off at 8 AM! 
  • Hit the clubhouse patio for lunch with Señor Grubby's around 12:30 PM
  • Awards ceremony, auction, and raffle 1-2 PM
  • And then kick back and enjoy the rest of your Friday!
This year we're benefitting Foster the Earth, an organization dedicated to helping vulnerable children and young adults in the foster care system through exposure to the great outdoors. And a BIG thank you to our list of generous sponsors. Thanks for your support and we'll see you at Goat Hill! 

PIC OF THE WEEK:


Bali leg burners. The cure? Bintang. 

Keep Surfing, 
Michael W. Glenn
On The Leaderboard
He's Been Club Champion 3 Years Running, And I'm No Slouch Myself.
Surf AM, Golf PM. Or Is It The Other Way Around.