Thursday, April 23, 2015

THE Surf Report- Early Edition


Just cruisin'.

SURF:
Hasn't been the biggest surf lately- nor the best weather- but it's been plenty fun.
This past week saw fun NW/SW swells in the water for shoulder high waves most everywhere. Tomorrow drops slightly but we still have fun chest high+ combo swell. We have a weak cold front moving through on Saturday and as it does, it will kick up the winds in our outer waters.
By late Saturday into early Sunday, models are showing a steep NW windswell in the head high range.
Water temps are cool but still slightly warmer than normal at 63 degrees and the tides are pretty simple the next few days- about 0' in the morning and up to 3.5' late afternoon.

FORECAST:
After the NW windswell rolls through this weekend, we have smaller background NW/SW for most of next week in the waist high+ range.
By Thursday though, charts show some waist high+ NW arriving and the start of some good SW in the chest high+ range.
Then the fun starts. Models tonight are showing a big storm off Antarctica taking shape late this weekend which will balloon into a monster. If the forecast is correct, we'll have a mammoth storm with 50'+ seas. Unfortunately it will peak SE of us near South America- not ideal for our swell window here in the States- but we still should get some well overhead S swell around the 3rd of May. Kind of like that solid S swell at the beginning of March we had.
After that, another storm is forecasted to build at the beginning of May which would give us overhead waves around the 9th of May. I love that we didn't get big El Nino NW swells this past winter but instead the SW swells are paying us back this spring! Make sure to keep up to date on these developing storms by visiting Twitter/North County Surf.

WEATHER:

We're pretty much where we should be this time of year with weak cold fronts moving through our area. No real rain unfortunately but temps are pleasant and it's cool to see cool weather finally. High pressure builds early next week and we get beach temps in the mid-70's again and more sun. Another weak cold front is forecasted for mid-week with more clouds and no rain.

BEST BET:
It's too far out to claim that big swell for early May, so let's just keep it safe and say next weekend with combo NW/SW

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

So we know that last winter was an ‘El Nino’ winter, meaning waters in the eastern tropical Pacific were warmer than average, and that was supposed to lead to big storms, big surf, and big rain. Well, the waters were definitely warmer than usual here in North County (like low 60’s this winter instead of mid-50’s) and I reported last week in the blog below that maybe the reason we didn't get big storms this winter was explained recently by a study in the Nature Geoscience journal that prolonged wind bursts originating in the western Pacific can have a strong effect on whether an El Niño event will occur and how severe it is likely to be. Well… the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has their own theory on why we didn’t get 15+ inches of rain this winter (more like 5-6” or ½ of normal). Blame it on La Nina- the bossy big sis of El Nino. Here’s the scoop from NOAA:

On average, La Niña—the cool phase of a natural climate pattern in the tropical Pacific—leads to somewhat dry winters in California. But a new analysis of historical data from scientists in NOAA’s Climate Program Office suggests that dryness often deepens into drought the following year, even if the tropical Pacific has technically shifted back to “neutral” conditions.  Consistent with that pattern, California’s ongoing drought began in 2011-12, during the second year of a La Niña phase, and it persisted into the “neutral” years of 2012-2014.

The first image at right shows winter (December-February) sea surface temperature and precipitation data for all neutral years in the historical record (1901-2004) that followed a La Niña year. Click tabs below image to see different maps. The second and third images below show the winters of 2012-13 and 2013-14—the second and third winters of the ongoing California drought. Areas that were warmer than average are red; areas that were cooler than average are blue. Areas of unusually high precipitation are green; unusually dry areas are brown.

The conditions during the winter of 2012-13 echo the historical pattern in many ways: cool in the eastern tropical Pacific and warm to the west. In the mid-latitudes, a pocket of cooler water is pinned against the West Coast by a larger blob of unusually warm water in the North Pacific. In the winter of 2013-14, many signs of the pattern remain, but the mid-latitude “blob” of warm water was much warmer than the winter before, and it was located much closer to the West Coast. Meanwhile, the cool anomalies were fading.

The scientists replicated the historical analysis in a climate model that does a good job simulating El Niño/La Nina cycles and found the same pattern: when neutral conditions follow La Niña conditions, ocean surface waters remain cool in the eastern tropical Pacific, warm in the western Pacific, and precipitation in California remains below average. The below-average precipitation is connected to a large ridge of high pressure (not shown) looming offshore, blocking moisture-laden storms from traveling through California.

The simulations suggest that the dryness can linger for multiple years after a La Niña—until the Pacific shifts all the way over to its warm phase, El Niño. And to really help the current drought, not just any El Niño will do. The warming would likely need to be strong and widespread, not just confined to the central Pacific—where the current El Niño is located—but extending across the eastern tropical Pacific, as well.

The location of the warming is key to delivering a wet winter to California because the warm waters become the epicenter for increased tropical rainfall. Tropical rainfall must generally shift all the way into the eastern Pacific in order to influence the jet stream in a way that can reliably steer mid-latitude storms across California and the southern tier of the United States.

The ENSO forecast for April 2015 gives a roughly 70% chance that current El Niño conditions will last through the Northern Hemisphere summer of 2015, but whether it will last through the winter—California’s wet season—is more uncertain.

The lingering influence of La Niña event may explain part of the current California drought, but with an event this complex, multiple factors almost certainly play a role. In addition, research indicates that extended dry spells might be the long-term norm for this part of the world. Research highlighted in The New York Times uses tree rings to reconstruct past climates over centuries. Such studies have found evidence of Western megadroughts that lasted decades.

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Where the heck do these waves exist and how come I'm not on them?

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
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