Friday, May 29, 2015

THE Surf Report


My head's gonna explode.

SURF:
Lots of good SW swell this past week even though May Gray was a little strong for a few days. We're starting to see some sunshine in the afternoons finally and it's shining on the good swell we've had the past few days.
The SW peaked yesterday but we still have head high sets in far north county SD. Look for the clouds to burn off a little quicker this weekend and the swell backs off too. By Sunday we have great weather and leftover chest high SW sets. Water temps are a comfortable 65 degrees (Remember last May's 'fire weather'? Water was 70 this time of year).
Tides the next few days are around 2' at sunrise, 3.5' mid-morning, down to 1' after lunch, and up to 5.5' at sunset.

FORECAST:

So why's my head gonna explode?! ALLLLLLLLLLL kinds of stuff happening to the south of us right now (as well as NOAA's 2015 summer hurricane forecast- more on that below). Even though the our weekend swell will be on a down trend, Monday will make up for that. First up is a solid storm off Antarctica last week that is sent us a good SW swell for Monday afternoon. Look for shoulder high surf to show by sundown and and actually peak on Thursday with well overhead sets.
At the same time, our first storm off the season off Baja is chugging along. Tropical Storm Andres (soon to be Hurricane Andres) has winds this morning of 70 MPH and forecasted to peak at 100 MPH. I hate that two similar swells are showing at the same time (because the week of June 8th is looking pretty flat around here) but beggars can't be choosers. 'Hurricane' Andres will give the OC head high+ waves on Monday but it will really will just be enhancing the SW that's already in the water. Next weekend everything starts to wind down and the week of June 8th as stated above looks small at this point- but all of that can change in a moment's notice with our already active hurricane season. Make sure to keep up to date on the surf by visiting Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:

Here's a question: Would you rather have 90 degree beach weather with a chance of brush fires (i.e. last May) or May Gray at the beaches with temps in the mid-60's and drizzle (this May)? Knowing the horror and doom of the brush fires in north county SD last year, I'll take drizzle and the gloom this year. High pressure is building today and will give us a little more sunshine at the beaches this weekend but the forecast is tricky as inland it will be close to 90 and the coast may see socked in fog. Hopefully we'll see a little sun by mid-afternoon around here. On Monday we have another weak trough setting up shop in southern CA and the return of thick May Gray will rear it's head for the beginning of June.

BEST BET:
Pretty much Tuesday to Thursday. Clear your schedule.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

Last week I discussed the strong likelihood that the El Nino this year may hang around through our upcoming winter (click here).

And what that may mean for our upcoming summer (click here).

In case you missed it, here's a condensed version of last year's hurricane activity:

The pseudo El Nino this past winter didn't do anything for our drought but it sure did make it's presence felt this past summer. As you know, our water temps were about 5 degrees warmer than normal which translated to warmer water at the equator and overall the 2014 season was extremely active in the Eastern Pacific off mainland Mexico and Baja; the number of named storms, hurricanes, and major hurricanes was well above average. Based on data from 1981-2010 climatology records, the seasonal activity averages for hurricanes off Mainland Mex/Baja are:

-15 named storms
-8 hurricanes
-and 3 to 4 major hurricanes.

And 2014 was well above those averages:

-20 named storms formed of which (5 more than normal)
-14 became hurricanes (6 more than normal)
-and 8 of those reached major hurricane strength (4 to 5 more than normal)

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) just issued it's summer 2015 hurricane outlook for the Eastern Pacific. Their prediction is for a 70 percent chance of an above-normal hurricane season. I love it. That outlook calls for a 70 percent probability of:

-15-22 named storms (vs. an average of 15 and last summer's 20)
-7-12 are expected to become hurricanes (vs. an average of 8 and last summer's 14)
-and 5-8 major hurricanes (vs. an average of 3-4 and last summer's 8)

Last year was better than could have been expected and NOAA reflected that in their forecast this year as they're looking at summer 2015 with a grain of salt (i.e. last year we had 8 major hurricanes and NOAA thinks that's the upper end of the scale this year). Regardless, we should be in for an above average hurricane season this year- and if Tropical Storm Andres (soon to be Hurricane Andres) is any indication (i.e. we're still 3 weeks before summer starts), we're on the right track.

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Another reason gold is always a good buy.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
King For A Day
Paid For the Stones Gig At Belly Up
Designing a Bikini Line With McTavish For Vee Bottom Shapes

Friday, May 22, 2015

THE Surf Report


Start up the hype machine! Again.

SURF:

Not much surf lately except for some NW windswell last weekend and some background SW swells during the work week. Today we've got more background SW swell, but with the cold front moving through, it's pretty junky. Tomorrow cleans up slightly but it's not that impressive.
There was a storm a few days ago off Antarctica that sent us some fun SSW swell for Sunday/Monday. Look for chest high waves with shoulder high sets towards the OC. Water temps are 64 but may drop slightly after the cold front blows through tomorrow.
Tides are around 0' at sunrise, 3.5' mid-afternoon, and up to 2.5' at sunset. For a more detailed THE Surf Report, check out http://www.northcountysurf.blogspot.com/.

FORECAST:
The weekend SSW swells backs off by Tuesday and Wednesday is pretty small.
Charts showed another storm in the southern hemisphere yesterday that should give us more chest high+ SW next Thursday.
And behind that is a slightly bigger SW swell off New Zealand that should give us shoulder high waves towards June 1st. And in between all of this is small off and on NW windswell to help break up the SW lines. Make sure to keep up to date on the surf by visiting Twitter/North County Surf.

WEATHER:

Is today finally the end of our rainy season? Just when I gave up hope back in April, this month has turned out to be our 2nd wettest May ever in San Diego with over 2.5" of rain. Today we're only expected to get less than a quarter inch from spotty showers (and maybe a stray thunderstorm) and then it cleans up tomorrow. By Sunday we should have nice cool conditions. Nothing exciting is forecasted next week with just seasonal night/morning low clouds/fog and temps in the low 70's at the beaches.

BEST BET:
Sunday with the new fun SSW and cleaner weather or next Thursday with about the same conditions.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

As you know by now, waters in the equatorial Pacific in the spring of 2014 were warmer than normal and it led to two things: An increase in our hurricane activity (see the full report here) and the hope of a stormy El Nino winter. Well, we got one thing right- the active hurricane season. So what happened to the El Nino? There were a couple explanations like the ‘blob’ and La Nina. But the warm waters of El Nino haven’t gone away in our spring of 2015. In fact, the equatorial Pacific has gotten warmer. So is El Nino going to do an encore this hurricane season AND finally rear it’s ugly head this winter? The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration thinks so. And if our 2nd wettest May on record is any indication, I may just believe the hype too. Here’s the latest compelling arguments from NOAA:

There’s a 90% chance that the current El Niño will continue through the summer, and forecasters estimate the chance that it will continue through the end of 2015 at greater than 80%. This is a pretty confident forecast. What are the forecasters looking at that gives them such confidence?

Warm and Getting Warmer

Sea surface temperatures (SST’s) in the equatorial Pacific remained substantially above average during April. Also, there is still a lot of warmer-than-average water below the surface in the upper 300 meters of the ocean, helping to ensure that the above-average sea surface temperatures will continue for at least the next few months.

The atmospheric response to the warmer waters in the equatorial Pacific that we began to see in February strengthened through March and April: the Trade winds are more westerly than average, upper-level winds are weaker than average, and more rain was present in the central equatorial Pacific. These are all signs of the weakened Walker Circulation, present during El Niño events, and act to reinforce El Niño events.

This consistent atmospheric coupling is a change from the pattern we saw throughout 2014, when conditions changed from week-to-week. With a climate phenomenon like the El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO), we expect to see more of a persistent pattern. (This doesn’t mean that the El Niño atmospheric conditions are always present every week, but that they are on average over the season.)

Conditions Look Good, But What’s Behind The Confident Forecast?

Nearly all computer model forecasts predict a continuation of the warmer-than-average SST’s through the end of 2015. There is a lot of agreement among the models that the SSTs will remain warm, and most models are forecasting SSTs more than 0.5°C above average through the October-December period. This agreement in forecasts, in combination with an ongoing consistent atmospheric response, is a large contributor to the high probability that this El Niño will continue through the fall.

As far as how strong this El Niño will ultimately be, it’s difficult to say. There is a fair amount of variation in the forecasts. The statistical models, which predict how current conditions are likely to change by applying statistics to historical conditions, are generally on the lower side of the forecast envelope, around 0.5°C – 1°C, the range of a “weak” event.
Many of the dynamical models, which use physical equations to predict how current conditions will evolve, have forecasts of warmer than 1.5°C, our threshold for “strong” events. Based on past model runs, the bias-corrected NMME dynamical model forecasts made in early May for the October-December period have a typical error of about 0.6°C, meaning, according to this set of models, there’s a 2-in-3 chance that the average temperature  will be in the range of 2.2°C +/- 0.6°C—i.e., between 1.6°C and 2.8°C. *

Models – both dynamical and statistical – tend to have a harder time making successful forecasts during the spring as well. Also, El Niño events typically peak in the early winter, which is still six months away. These factors combine to make it difficult to predict the peak strength of this El Niño. It’s likely that we’ll have a clearer picture of the potential strength in the next month or so. For reference, the potential strength of the strong 1997-1998 El Niño didn’t become apparent, and wasn’t formally mentioned by NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center until July of 1997.

A Special Snowflake

Speaking of typical events, though – this is not one of them. It is unusual for sea surface temperatures in the region to start off warm in the winter and then continue to be warm through the spring and summer. In the 60-year record, only one El Niño event, in 1986-1987, had similar behavior. The evolution and strength of this event might be a little easier to predict if it were starting at a more typical time of year.

OK, But What’s Going to Happen???

The most substantial US temperature and rain impacts from El Niño occur during winter. Right now, it’s too early to forecast with much confidence the effect this El Niño may have on the US next winter. (Although the good chance that this El Niño will last into winter does tilt the odds towards the expected temperature and precipitation impacts). The Australian Bureau of Meteorology has just raised their event tracker to “El Niño” status, the equivalent of issuing an El Niño Advisory for us. (They have slightly different thresholds for declaring the onset of El Niño.) El Niño events are linked to increased drought and heat waves in Australia, especially during their winter (our summer), so they monitor its evolution closely.

Also, since it’s very likely that this event will continue through the summer, we may see some effects on the tropical cyclone seasons. The western Pacific tropical cyclone season is off to a roaring start, with seven named storms so far (the average is two!), which is likely linked to the warm Pacific waters.

So there you have it. It’s official: Start up the hype machine!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

The first thing that struck me when I saw this shot is that it looked like a burrito. I doubt it had anything to do with me going to Chipotle last night. Anyone else hungry right now?

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Invaluable
Cashing My Kid's College Fund To Finance Charger's Stadium
Put Surf Racks On My Rolls Royce

Friday, May 15, 2015

THE Surf Report


I'm wearing a life jacket. In my house.

SURF:

Just our luck- a solid storm last week sent a good S swell our way again (3rd in a row) and wouldn't you know it- it arrives the same time a VERY late season storm decides to show up. We're just 4 weeks from summer and we get a good 'January' type storm in May. So if you planned on surfing today, forget about it. Tomorrow things clean up but unfortunately the water doesn't. If you must test the waters, Sunday will be the day but any size from the storm surf will be long gone and we'll just have leftover SW swell in the chest high+ range.
Water temps are 62 and tides the next few days are 3' at sunrise, up slightly to 4.5' at 8am, down to 0.5' at 2pm, and up to 6' at sunset. For a more detailed THE Surf Report, check out http://www.northcountysurf.blogspot.com/.

FORECAST:

Once the weekend cleans up, there's just some background pulses of NW/SW next week. On the best tides you should find some fun chest high sets off and on next week- most likely Tuesday/Thursday. Not the most thrilling forecast but not a whole lot on the charts.
Further out, models show a solid storm taking shape off New Zealand next week that may give us overhead SW again towards the 27th. Keep your fingers crossed. Make sure to keep up to date on the surf by visiting https://twitter.com/NorthCountySurf

WEATHER:

San Diego's Lindbergh Field (i.e. the airport) took the cake last night. A very impressive 1.5" of rain fell in just 90 minutes. Yep- you read that right. ONE AND A HALF INCHES IN AN HOUR AND A HALF. That's Costa Rica rainforest stuff. The rest of southern California wasn't that crazy but most everywhere received 1/2" so far. And we've got a little bit left coming this morning. Showers should end this afternoon and we've got cool clear conditions tomorrow with sunny skies and Sunday's a little better with temps in the high 60's. We have another cold front coming through on Monday but it looks like only drizzle is forecasted. The marine layer stays thick next week (i.e. May Gray) and there may be another cold front late next week- but the models have too much uncertainty at this time to predict showers again.

BEST BET:
Maybe leftover SW/NW on Sunday (but the water will be suspect), or some small background SW/NW next week with cleaner weather, or if you can wait that long (and believe the models), good SW swell towards the end of the month.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

Amazing how odd our weather has been the past 12 months. Wildfires last May, an active hurricane season last summer, the hope of drenching El Nino rains, then the El Nino rains never showing up this winter and the Governor goes ballistic on the water restrictions, and now this: dumping rain just a few weeks before summer. All my studying of meteorology at San Diego State has completely gone to waste. So where do we stand on our rainfall this season:

-Newport Beach: 6.68" of rain so far this season. Normal is 12.93". At 51% of normal.
-Oceanside: 6.70" of rain so far this season. Normal is 13.66".  At 49% of normal.
-San Diego: 8.66" of rain so far this season. Normal is 10.34". At 83% or normal.

So what does all this mean? Well, we're not out of the drought since we've been below average for years now. But the current rains are a huge relief as they'll delay our wildfire season this year; as well help slightly with the current drought situation. Hopefully we'll have a summer like last year where humidities stay high and we have the chance of a few monsoon showers here and there.

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Just how big is this wave? Probably only 2'. Hey- groms gotta have their own Shipsterns too.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Wholesome Goodness
Letterman's Last Guest
Rip From 1' To 10' To 100'

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Surf Check

Had some fun small surf the past few days with seasonal weather and water temps slightly above normal.
New NW filled in today and met up with slowly building SW swell for chest high waves and shoulder high sets this evening. Winds weren't much of a problem as we had typical SSW winds for May.
I've been watching some S swell slowly make it's way up the Americas this past week and we'll start to see sets later on tomorrow and peak on Thursday. Look for head high sets from the SW as well as building NW windswell late Thursday.
The source of that building NW windswell is from a late late late season storm approaching late Thursday into Friday. As we approach summer, the Aleutians will be dumping a storm on us with 3/4"of rain and 6" of snow in our mountains above 7,000'. We're still a long way off to hitting our normal 10" of rain for the season, but it will at least hold off the fire weather for awhile.
As the storm blows through on Friday and makes a mess of things around here, look or the NW windswell to hit the head high+ range. Not worth surfing unfortunately as the seas will be a mess and the water will be filthy. Things clean up by Sunday but the surf also disappears along with the clouds.
After the mix of swells this week, next week is looking suspect. Not much NW on the charts and the southern hemisphere is a little confused. Lots of activity in the forecast but not much organization. At this point in time, we should have some background chest high SW next weekend. Hopefully it will be bigger but the storms need to get their act together first!
Water temps are holding at 64 degrees (but should drop after the weekend once the NW winds kick in from Friday's storm) and tides the next few days are 4' at sunrise, down to 0' at lunch, and back up to 5' at sunset. In a nutshell, make sure to get some surf early Thursday before the storm wreaks havoc on your weekend surf plans!

Friday, May 8, 2015

THE Surf Report


Are we actually on track?

SURF:
Another great S swell earlier this the week. Puerto was mackin', the Wedge was bombin', and everything in-between was firin'.
As the swell started to wind down mid-week, the clouds thickened, the wind picked up, and we got back on track for a typical May. Today we have showers and wind overhead and the swell is chest high from a NW/S combo.
Good news is that the storm will blow through tonight and the S swell will pick up yet again tomorrow from a fun storm off Antarctica last week. We should see chest high SW swell along with some NW windswell. Beachbreaks will be fun. BUT... bad news is that the water is actually dirty from the showers we're experiencing today. And we haven't had much run-off in awhile so surf at your own risk. Best case is to wait until Tuesday (more on that below).
Water temps are back on track too for May- around 62 degrees and the tides this weekend are almost -1' at sunrise, up to 3.5' after lunch, and dropping slightly to 2' at sunset.

FORECAST:

Once the water quality cleans up, we've got ANOTHER good S swell headed our way for Tuesday. Not as big as the early April S swell or the one earlier in the week, but look for head high waves in town and sunny skies.
There's also a little NW swell forecasted so beach breaks will be peaky. After that, things slow down as we don't have many large storms on the charts next week. Looks like we have another weak storm coming next weekend from the Aleutians, so we may get small NW windswell again but that's about it.
Forecast models have a couple small storms off Antarctica that may produce waist high+ S swell towards the end of next weekend but don't hold your breath. Make sure to keep up to date on these developing storms by visiting Twitter/North County Surf. 

WEATHER:

I'd like to make a big deal about the showers today, but we normally get a few drops here and there in May (or at least we used to back in the 1900's) so I'm not that excited. Back on track I guess. What am I excited about is that we need it desperately so a quarter inch is much appreciated by my lawn. With that said, look for showers off and on today then sunny skies return tomorrow. By Sunday it's clear and 70 degrees at the beaches again. Nice weather holds for most of next week, then charts show another similar 'storm' arriving next Friday for another 1/4" of rain. I think that's good enough to end the drought restrictions, don't you think?

BEST BET:
Saturday if you have a hazmat full suit (I think Rip Curl calls it the H Bomb). Or Tuesday if you value your health.

NEWS OF THE WEEK:

Even though our water temps have cooled to normal levels for May, that doesn't mean the rest of the Pacific is back on track. The Scientists at the University of Washington have reportedly recently there is an unusually large area of warm water off the west coast dubbed 'the blob'. What does it mean for us and the rest of the world for that matter? Take a gander...

The one common element in recent weather has been oddness. The West Coast has been warm and parched; the East Coast has been cold and snowed under. Fish are swimming into new waters, and hungry seals are washing up on California beaches.

A long-lived patch of warm water off the West Coast, about 2 to 7 degrees Fahrenheit above normal, is part of what's wreaking much of this mayhem, according to two University of Washington papers to appear in Geophysical Research Letters, a journal of the American Geophysical Union.

"In the fall of 2013 and early 2014 we started to notice a big, almost circular mass of water that just didn't cool off as much as it usually did, so by spring of 2014 it was warmer than we had ever seen it for that time of year," said Nick Bond, a climate scientist at the UW-based Joint Institute for the Study of the Atmosphere and Ocean, a joint research center of the UW and the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

Bond coined the term "the blob" last June in his monthly newsletter as Washington's state climatologist. He said the huge patch of water -- 1,000 miles in each direction and 300 feet deep -- had contributed to Washington's mild 2014 winter and might signal a warmer summer.

Ten months later, the blob is still off our shores, now squished up against the coast and extending about 1,000 miles offshore from Mexico up through Alaska, with water about 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than normal. Bond says all the models point to it continuing through the end of this year.

The new study explores the blob's origins. It finds that it relates to a persistent high-pressure ridge that caused a calmer ocean during the past two winters, so less heat was lost to cold air above. The warmer temperatures we see now aren't due to more heating, but less winter cooling.

Co-authors on the paper are Meghan Cronin at NOAA in Seattle and a UW affiliate professor of oceanography, Nate Mantua at NOAA in Santa Cruz and Howard Freeland at Canada's Department of Fisheries and Oceans.

The authors look at how the blob is affecting West Coast marine life. They find fish sightings in unusual places, supporting recent reports that West Coast marine ecosystems are suffering and the food web is being disrupted by warm, less nutrient-rich Pacific Ocean water.

The blob's influence also extends inland. As air passes over warmer water and reaches the coast it brings more heat and less snow, which the paper shows helped cause current drought conditions in California, Oregon and Washington.

The blob is just one element of a broader pattern in the Pacific Ocean whose influence reaches much further -- possibly to include two bone-chilling winters in the Eastern U.S.

A study in the same journal by Dennis Hartmann, a UW professor of atmospheric sciences, looks at the Pacific Ocean's relationship to the cold 2013-14 winter in the central and eastern United States.

Despite all the talk about the "polar vortex," Hartmann argues we need to look south to understand why so much cold air went shooting down into Chicago and Boston.

His study shows a decadal-scale pattern in the tropical Pacific Ocean linked with changes in the North Pacific, called the North Pacific mode, that sent atmospheric waves snaking along the globe to bring warm and dry air to the West Coast and very cold, wet air to the central and eastern states.

"Lately this mode seems to have emerged as second to the El Niño Southern Oscillation in terms of driving the long-term variability, especially over North America," Hartmann said.

In a blog post last month, Hartmann focused on the more recent winter of 2014-15 and argues that, once again, the root cause was surface temperatures in the tropical Pacific.

That pattern, which also causes the blob, seems to have become stronger since about 1980 and lately has elbowed out the Pacific Decadal Oscillation to become second only to El Niño in its influence on global weather patterns.

"It's an interesting question if that's just natural variability happening or if there's something changing about how the Pacific Ocean decadal variability behaves," Hartmann said. "I don't think we know the answer. Maybe it will go away quickly and we won't talk about it anymore, but if it persists for a third year, then we'll know something really unusual is going on."

Bond says that although the blob does not seem to be caused by climate change, it has many of the same effects for West Coast weather.

"This is a taste of what the ocean will be like in future decades," Bond said. "It wasn't caused by global warming, but it's producing conditions that we think are going to be more common with global warming."

PIC OF THE WEEK:

Is this wave actually thicker than it is tall? You could actually do a cutback on the lip itself. Not an off the lip mind you, but an actual carve on the face of the lip. Sure would help with the crowds- one person could surf the lip and another the face of the wave.

Keep Surfing,

Michael W. Glenn
Blowin' Up
Didn't Mean To Trip Shaq
I Declare Drought Restrictions Over Thanks To The Brazilian Storm

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Surf Check

Another big S swell graced our shores the past few days- but the big difference between this swell and the April swell was the wind and air temps. April was glassy and 80 degrees- the swell this week was windy as hell and 65 degrees.
Still plenty of head high waves today from the S with a touch of much smaller NW helped break up the lines at the beach breaks. Wind backed off slightly too but it still was breezy from the NW. That was due to a low pressure system parked over us (more on that below). Look for the NW to hang around tomorrow while the S continues to back off with shoulder high sets.
Water temps have dropped slightly to 64 degrees due to all the wind and clouds. Tides the next few days are around -1' at sunrise, up to 3.5' at noon, down to -1.5' late afternoon, and back up to 3.5' at sunset.
As far as our weather goes, ol' man winter is giving it one last try this week. Weak low pressure has set up shop above us and we'll have drizzle, clouds, and breezy conditions through Thursday. Then the low pressure starts to move through on Friday and we get a better shot at showers. Nothing big but we'll take the quarter inch that's predicted. Saturday is a transition day with a return of the sun and cool temps then early next week we're back to temps in the high 70's and clear skies.
As the showers approach on Friday, we also have more SW swell approaching. Looks like head high sets in far north county BUT the showers and breezy conditions will screw things up. The breezy conditions will also kick up some NW windswell on Friday. So we've got peaky conditions from the combo swell but sloppy seas. Awesome.
Charts though show some more solid S swell headed our way towards the 12th of May. Not as big as the early April swell or last Monday's swell, but if it holds true, we'll get overhead waves again. AND the weather should cooperate.
After that, there's one last storm on the charts directly beneath us that may give another shot of shoulder high S swell around the 17th of May. In a nutshell, more SW swell on Friday but junky conditions, a better bigger S swell on Tuesday the 12th, and a smaller S swell around the 17th.