Back in November, I created a story called
'Stoke! Art Gallery 1'. I've been doing THE Surf Report for about 20 years now and The Pic of the Week has been part of the family for 15 of those years. Since THE Surf Report is posted every Friday, and the Pic of the Week has been around for 15 years, that's around 750 epic empty line up shots. They've been sitting in hibernation all this time so I thought I'd showcase a few beauties from the past on the North County Surf blog here. So enough of me babbling, here's the 2nd round of 'Stoke! Art Gallery'. The pic above is what every surfer dreams of- warm water, fun barrels, and no one out. Doesn't matter if this is Indo, Hawaii, the Caribbean, whatever- it exists.
Speaking of Hawaii, this shot looks fun until you realize it's 15' and there's 20 more behind it about to unload on your head. If the locals don't pound you, then the waves out the back will.
Classic Mexico shot. Hard offshores, dusty, dry, and miles of untapped beach break. I'll draw you a map if you'd like, but you're going to need an indestructible 4x4, plenty of food and water, and bribery skills to match that of Al Capone.
Here's another secret destination. How many line-ups can you spot within walking distance?! It's like the Ranch in central CA but without the cold water and psychotic land owners. Doesn't matter if you're goofy, regular, a pro, or a grom; this beach has something for everyone.
I love this shot- it's not big- most likely head high- but thick, gurgling, and full of sand. And the best part: it's in the Gulf of Mexico. Yes- most likely Texas or Louisiana. Of course it never gets like this very often- you have to wait for Hurricane season- but if you're dedicated and have the time, it will come.
You may have seen this spot from different angles over the years in THE Surf Report (most recently last week). What's great about this particular shot is that it's not big enough to draw a crowd. But from my perspective, I've got a groveler that would do wonders on this wave. 3' to 30', I'm not picky (ok, 30' is stretching it). And in case you're wondering where it is, let's just say this particular island in the southern hemisphere is known for it's lefts, so this is a bit of an anomaly.
This is another anomaly on the Pic of the Week- a surfer. Sure I show waves every week that beg to be ridden, but there's never anyone riding them. I always like to leave it up to the imagination. So why the shot of the guy dropping in? (no it's not me if you're wondering- I wish). It's because the wave is one of my all-time favorites- the Wedge in Newport Beach. Amazing to think we get beach break that big here in California. Hardly ever see Black's like that- and even Ocean Beach in San Fran is rare to push 25'. If you've never been to the Wedge, put it on your bucket list the next time we have a big south headed our way. It's one of the 7 Wonders of the Surfing World.
Another shot of California. Or I think it is due to the hazy sun and smokestacks in the back. Could be a 3rd world country for all I know. But regardless, it's an empty early morning barrel that 10 million people in Southern California seem to have hit their snooze alarms that day.
Another Mexico shot in the Stoke! Art Gallery. This time just a quick jaunt down to Baja. But you're going to need an indestructible 4x4, plenty of food... stop me if you've heard this before. If you're not into making the 2 day drive to the tip, there's just a quick 2 hour flight via Alaska Airlines (and now Southwest Airlines), a 5 star resort waiting, and 75 degree water in the middle of our winter. Why's this place so popular again?...
And last but not least- another shot of surfers (I think this is the 2nd and last shot I ever had of guys surfing in the Pic of the Week- the Wedge shot above is the other). Who else made your dreams come true as a kid- Walt Disney- and now he's done it for the adults. Typhoon Lagoon is the spot and it's smack right dab in the middle of Florida. Now will this ever replace real surfing or the ocean? Never. Would you like to be Bill Gates and have one in your backyard? Of course you would. In a second! Don't lie.
