It's the calm before the storm. We've got pleasant weather this morning with some high and low level clouds moving in from the west. Light showers are falling and the surf is pretty flat from the NW/SW with maybe a waist high set- but good news is that it should pick up later today.
The buoys off of Point Conception in the last 12 hours have gone from about 3' to 8' and they're still increasing (see the map above). You might want to get a quick sunset session in tonight with the hopes the NW fills in before dark and the winds hold off- tomorrow looks pretty junky.
Models show showers off and on today from the first weak cold front on the charts. Then a second stronger colder system (as shown in the mess in the top left hand corner of the satellite image above)hits our region tomorrow afternoon for around 1/2" of rain and a dusting of snow in the San Bernadino Mountains (around the 6,000 foot level). Winds of course will be a problem as we should be stuck in the 15mph range in the AM from the south then turning west in the afternoon. Thursday we're stuck with showers as the front departs and the peak of our NW/SW swell combo- just our luck to have overhead surf and junky conditions as winds most likely will be in the 15 mph range from the NW. High pressure builds in behind the departing front and we get great weather for the weekend and not much surf unfortunately.
The south Pacific though still has a little activity as shown in the map above and I'm hoping for a fun SW the middle of next week. We may also have more NW around the same time too- this time with better weather. Keep your fingers crossed.
