Friday, May 25, 2012

THE Surf Report 5/25/12


Boring.

SURF:
Usually I'm a big fan of spring. SW swells light up the coast, a touch of NW windswell peaking up the beachbreaks, fog in the morning burning off to afternoon sunshine. But the past couple of weeks have been boring around here- not much surf nor sun.
Today unfortunately is the extreme of that- we have a late season cold front moving through the area (Tahoe is actually getting a dusting of snow at lake level- great Memorial Day for vacationers up there) and we're getting light showers and blustery SW winds. The only good news for us is that the outer water winds have been blowing 30-40mph and we've got some shoulder high NW swell around town. Blown to bits unfortunately, but some source of surf nonetheless. The front will exit the region tomorrow afternoon and we'll have cool conditions and leftover chest high NW. For Sunday/Monday we have nice weather, temps in the mid-60's and waist high+ surf. All in all a pretty bland weekend. Water temps are still in the mid-60's.
Tides the next few days 0' at sunrise, 3.5' mid-afternoon, and down to 2' in the evening. Even the tides aren't that interesting this weekend. Make sure to keep up to date on the waves and weather at Twitter/North County Surf.

FORECAST:
Not much on the horizon unfortunately. Just some off and on waist high+ NW windswell towards Tuesday and again on Thursday.
Charts though do show some late season activity in the Aleutians and hopefully we'll get some chest high NW swell for late next weekend into Monday. The southern hemisphere hasn't been much better either and we don't have any real swells coming our way next week.
Models show some minor activity this weekend which may give us a chest high+ SW towards next Friday. At least it's something.

WEATHER:
Once this late season cold front exits the region on Saturday afternoon, we'll have cool clear conditions on Sunday. Memorial Day is a little better with low clouds in the morning burning off to hazy afternoon sunshine with temps in the high 60's at the beaches. It looks like more of the same for the work week. Charts hint at another weak cold front next weekend- not as cold or blustery as the mess today- but we may have more extensive clouds next weekend and cool temps.

BEST BET:
Hard to say. If you like junk then you'll love today and tomorrow. If you're waiting for cleaner conditions and better NW/SW swells, then hold off 'til next weekend- that's if the models are correct...

NEWS OF THE WEEK:
Last week on THE Surf Report I made my eastern Pacific hurricane prediction: with the mild El Nino building, I predicted we'd have a slightly above average season. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration came out with their prediction yesterday and said it would be average. Due to current climate predictions (i.e. the El Nino won't be in full swing until the fall) signs point to a near-normal hurricane season. The outlook calls for a 50 percent probability of a near-normal season, a 30 percent probability of a below-normal season and a 20 percent probability of an above-normal season. Seasonal hurricane forecasters estimate a 70 percent chance of 12 to 18 named storms, which includes 5 to 9 hurricanes, of which 2 to 5 are expected to become major hurricanes (Category 3, 4 or 5 on the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale). An average Eastern Pacific hurricane season produces 15 named storms, with eight becoming hurricanes and four becoming major hurricanes. The Eastern Pacific hurricane season runs from May 15 through Nov. 30, with peak activity from July through September. This outlook is based on the analysis and prediction of two competing climate signals:
•Ongoing conditions, such as increased wind shear, that have been suppressing eastern Pacific hurricane seasons since 1995, and
•The possible development of El NiƱo later in the season, with warmer waters in the eastern tropical Pacific Ocean, which can decrease the vertical wind shear and increase hurricane activity in the eastern Pacific region.
“The eastern Pacific has gotten off to a busy and early start of the season, with Tropical Storm Aletta last week and Hurricane Bud churning off the Mexican coast this week,” said Gerry Bell, Ph.D., lead seasonal hurricane forecaster at NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center, part of the U.S. National Weather Service. “NOAA’s seasonal hurricane outlook gives people an idea of how the season will likely unfold so they will be prepared and equipped to respond when disaster strikes. Despite our predictions, it only takes one hurricane to cause a lot of damage and loss of life if people aren’t prepared.” The outlook is a general guide to the overall seasonal hurricane activity. It does not predict whether, where, or when any of these storms may hit land. Residents, businesses and government agencies of coastal and near-coastal regions should always prepare prior to each and every hurricane season regardless of the seasonal hurricane outlook. Eastern Pacific tropical storms most often track westward over open waters, sometimes reaching Hawaii and beyond. However, some occasionally head toward the northeast and may bring rainfall to the arid southwestern United States during the summer months. Also, during any given season, two to three tropical storms can affect western Mexico or Central America.
Long story short- we haven't had a good hurricane season in years- so if NOAA says it's going to be 'normal' around here, I'll take it.

BEST OF THE BLOG:
The unsung heroes live on the North County Surf blog. See clips of Australia's Lee Wilson going bonkers on a 5'2" in Indo, WQS chargers surfing a hefty beachbreak in Brazil, and California's own Nick Rozsa surfing some really fun wedges "north of L.A." (shhhhhh). And the latest on the new construction around town. All of that and more in the blog below!

PIC OF THE WEEK:

If you take a quick glance at the photo, you'll see some tropical breezes blowing, lines to the horizon, and no one out. Upon further inspection, you'll notice it's around 20', a lack of channels, and no one's out because it's 20' and the lack of channels. Looks fun, huh?

Keep Surfing,


Michael W. Glenn
Fascinating
Dating Siri
Rhino Chaser