Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Surf Check 9/20/11

Sure doesn't look or feel like the last day of summer. Actually, it feels like the first day of summer- small SW swell and June Gloom. We've only got small waist high SW swell in the line-up today maybe a chest high set in the OC.


And the low clouds are thick; lots of drizzle is making it feel like San Fran. If you can believe it, high pressure in our atmosphere is in control and the inland valleys will be in the mid-80's today. Unfortunately that same high pressure is pushing the clouds up against ocean and here at the coast we're stuck with cool cloudy wet conditions.

Looks like the small background SW swell will stick around the next couple of days along with the cloudy conditions. On a brighter note, we should have a new small fun NW swell showing on Thursday for chest high waves in south SD. Buoys off the Washington/British Columbia coast this morning are showing 22' readings. North county SD might be fun with the leftover small SW and small NW combo. There is also a weak cold front moving down the Pacific and it may stay offshore towards Friday which would suck in some tropical moisture and hopefully clear our skies by Saturday.

And as the north Pacific comes alive this week (the first day of fall is tomorrow you know), we may have a good head high NW for SD towards Monday of next week. Perfect timing.

On a side note, there is also an area of disturbed weather off of Mexico today that models show a 50% chance of becoming a hurricane the next few days. Don't hold your breath- but it would be nice if it did turn out to be a swell generator. If that's the case, we might see swell at the beginning of next week too. Crazy to think we could see a real Aleutian groundswell meeting up with a Mexican Hurricane.