Nothing exciting but it is rideable. If you head to south county SD, you might get a better set but don't expect too much. Looks fun though as we have some little wedges in the shorebreak due to the peaky conditions, high tide this morning, and sunny clean conditions- something new for a change. The red tide though is still hanging around and I don't expect to see much improvement until the weekend- I think we need a little more surf and sun to mix it out.
Tides the next few days are about 6.5' at 10am, -1' at 4pm, and up slightly to 2' at sunset. Water temps are currently hovering around 65. Now that's the simple part of this forecast. Let's see, what part of the forecast should I start with for the next few days. Let's go with what's currently happening in the entire Pacific right now: We've got a good early season storm in the Aleutians brewing up a NW groundswell, we've got Hurricane Hillary in our window, and we've got a late season southern hemi marching our way.
First up, Hurricane Hillary. Oddly, we're transitioning to a La Nina type pattern (i.e. cooler water temps) which kill hurricanes but Hurricane Hillary doesn't listen to weather forecasts. As luck would have it, she's done a pretty good job of wind speeds (hitting a peak of 150mph) and heading in our direction (due north). As typical with our hurricanes this summer, as soon as Hillary hit our swell window, she started to die, but for the last 24 hours, she's had winds around 120mph. She also wasn't large in diameter but the wind speed and direction should make up for her shortcomings. Long story short, we should see some waist high waves in south SD tomorrow afternoon, chest high in north county SD, and head high+ in far north county OC.
Also on the radar is our Aleutian storm. Currently it isn't that big but it will send shoulder high surf to south county SD on Thursday. North County SD should see some chest high sets and the OC about waist high. Throw in Hillary, and we'll have head high peaks most everywhere. Beachbreaks could be crazy looking due to the extreme NW angle of the NW swell and the extreme S angle of the S swell. Hopefully the swells don't cancel themselves out!
The models though are confused on the scenario- either the cold front from the Aleutian storm will be stronger than dissipating Hillary or Hillary's tropical clouds will be more prevalent than the cold front. So either this weekend we'll get cool dry clear conditions after the front rolls through OR a slight chance of thunderstorms and humidity. The models won't know until Friday unfortunately. We also have a weaker NW on the charts for the middle of next week and a better shot of some cool fall showers. If you like meteorology, the next 7 days is going to be your cup of tea.
