Great weather on tap today but not much surf unfortunately. The storm that rolled through Sunday evening only generated a little NW swell and we only had chest high waves around town with a couple bigger sets in south county SD the past few days. Today that NW swell is dropping and we've got waist high conditions with chest high sets.
Wind is currently calm and should blow out of the W around 10mph+ mid-day. Water temps are a chilly 58 degrees. And the tides are pretty extreme the next few days- about 7' at 6 AM, -1' around 2pm, and back up to 6' at sunset.
The good news is that there isn't much swell on tap for the rest of the day and into tomorrow. Why is that good news you ask? Because I'd rather have it flat during the work week and good swell for a 4 day weekend- and that's what we have on tap.
Models show a storm spinning in the Aleutians right now and seas off Oregon are around 24' and building. We should see swell off of Point Conception by tomorrow afternoon and head high sets for north county SD Thanksgiving morning and overhead sets in south county SD. The OC will have some chest high+ sets.
We also have a little weather headed our way with a weak front moving down the coast Thanksgiving day. Best bet is to hit it early Thursday (since you'll be watching football and stuffing your face anyway in the late afternoon) or get it Friday morning if you're not in a food coma. That swell fades out Friday afternoon and there's another similar sized NW on the charts for Monday with better weather lined up for next week- maybe even an offshore event mid-week.
And now to the interesting story of the day... Just when I've shut the door on the hurricane season (it is November you know- only 4 weeks to winter), Hurricane Kenneth decides to throw nature a curveball. Yes, I said hurricane. And not just a hurricane- but a category 4 hurricane- winds of 145mph. It's the strongest late hurricane on record. Completely frickin' nuts I tell you. AND it's in our swell window.
Now I'm hoping the NW swell on Thursday/Friday doesn't mess up the S swell headed our way but we may be lucky as the NW should be gone Friday afternoon and we'll start to see S swell Friday morning lasting into Saturday. We should get some head high sets from it in north county and a few feet overhead in the OC- and I'm trying to not jinx it because it's hard to believe we'll get head high+ surf from the S on Thanksgiving weekend- but that's what it's looking like. Long story short, we should have good NW on Thursdy/Friday, good S swell on Friday/Saturday, and a new NW on Monday. Stoke!
